Calling All Yamahas. Time to Post Your Pics
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Not the pedigree of the MX-10000, but a superb amp none the less. Both are HCA biased, and use MOSFET outputs.
the-real-mandak
Super Member
No, this amp is the closest to the MX-10000 you can get without actually owning one. It is I believe of the same MOS-FET design, so yes I would say of the same pedigree but of curse not nearly as extreme as the MX-10000.
So there will still be a big difference between the 2 amps, witch also is seen in the price. The MX-2000 was about $1.700 and the MX-10000 $7.500, but never the less I believe a small small small sister.
Nice find B-2 :thmbsp:
NB: But Mark can tell us the sonic difference since he has bough
:thmbsp:
So there will still be a big difference between the 2 amps, witch also is seen in the price. The MX-2000 was about $1.700 and the MX-10000 $7.500, but never the less I believe a small small small sister.
Nice find B-2 :thmbsp:
NB: But Mark can tell us the sonic difference since he has bough
:thmbsp:
Great minds must think alike. I used the word 'sensual' to describe the looks of this amp when talking with several folks off-line about the MX-2000. As you've stated, there is something about the proportions that give it a visual presentation like no other piece of gear that I've owned. I really wouldn't mind if it displaces the B-2 in my system (but, it must sound better to me inorder to do so), as it is so much better looking. Flat black is so visually uninspiring.
The 10000 are far more dynamic and has sheer quality at insanely high volumes than the 2000, having heard both, I can tell you that even though the 2000 is sweet, it lacks the authority of the 10,000, also in terms of dynamics, it looses out to its cheaper brother 1000. With a sensitive speaker, it is heavenly though, truly sweet and natural.
Going to have to agree with t-r-m on this one. Think they are the same pedigree. Very similar design and construction techiques from what I see in a quick service manual comparison. Biggest difference I can see is the toroid x-former in the MX-10000. Both have MOSFET, HCA outputs and copper chassis. The MX-10000 has only 88,000uf of filter capacity, which is twice that of the MX-2000 but the same as the B-2x, with the B-2 having 76,000uf. All of them pale in comparison to the 220,000uf of the A-2000 integrated amp, which is based on the B-2x (or, perhaps the other way round). Whatever, they are all excellent units. However, to my eye the MX-2000 is easily the most attractive.
EricC
Super Member
I cannot let Nadia see these pictures or she will have for sale signs on the BX-1s
If its bad now, just wait until I get my **** together and take some that do them justice. 
Not too worry. I'll never make the effort.
Not too worry. I'll never make the effort.
Glenn,
I'll credit you alone with the great mind(self praise,is no recommendation...).
Just on visual appeal,that has to be 'Top o' the heap' on my list.
(Substituting banana here for....)
I grow ever more in awe of my B-2 sound quality-wise,but she's like the ugly sister with the Heart of Gold that you're dating and love,when you're suddenly introduced to the other sister who'se been out of town for sometime and she's a 34 carat zipperbuster.:drool:
You still love and respect and stand in awe of the multitude of good qualities of your love but there's that Primal Force saying 'Mmmmmm'(GOD give me strength).
I'll credit you alone with the great mind(self praise,is no recommendation...).
Just on visual appeal,that has to be 'Top o' the heap' on my list.
(Substituting banana here for....)
I grow ever more in awe of my B-2 sound quality-wise,but she's like the ugly sister with the Heart of Gold that you're dating and love,when you're suddenly introduced to the other sister who'se been out of town for sometime and she's a 34 carat zipperbuster.:drool:
You still love and respect and stand in awe of the multitude of good qualities of your love but there's that Primal Force saying 'Mmmmmm'(GOD give me strength).
JJJimmy
Silver is Sweet!
Tone settings
I need some schooling/advice...
I've been running a pair of NS-1000M's with a CR-1020 while I clean up a CA-1000. My question is, which tone controls provide the best sound changes - the bass - presence - treble knobs on the receiver, or the high and mid dials on the speakers? I've been messing around with 'em all day, but I'm afraid I may be going about dialing in the best sound all wrong. I've read posts about keeping things set "Flat", but why?
What do you guys do?
I need some schooling/advice...
I've been running a pair of NS-1000M's with a CR-1020 while I clean up a CA-1000. My question is, which tone controls provide the best sound changes - the bass - presence - treble knobs on the receiver, or the high and mid dials on the speakers? I've been messing around with 'em all day, but I'm afraid I may be going about dialing in the best sound all wrong. I've read posts about keeping things set "Flat", but why?
What do you guys do?
the-real-mandak
Super Member
Use you're ears, what sounds best to you.
There is no final equation, some units have more used caps, and some don't. Vintage gear depends greatly on experience, running houres and will to play with the gear.
There is no final equation, some units have more used caps, and some don't. Vintage gear depends greatly on experience, running houres and will to play with the gear.
Here is a pic of both MX-2000 amps and a nudie. It is as flawless as the first one. That orange mark along the top of the left side wood is a reflection. The wood is unmarred, as well. I started to pull the side panels, but it looks as if none of the screws have ever been hit with a screwdriver, so I didn't want to disturb. Based on their weight, I'm guessing that the sheetmetal is brushed stainless. These suckers are so beautiful that I'm going to have move more rapidly getting my proper granite shelved rack built.
the-real-mandak
Super Member
The reason for the “flat” EQ’s are due to phase errors, when you start playing with the EQ, you also change the phase in the audio signal. Another reason is the theory of less is more; this simply means that fewer electric components the in the sound path, the better/cleaner signal you will get. Adding an EQ to the signal chain also means adding a lot more components, so less clean sound.
I believe it was in the late 70’s when manufactures started to add a Source Direct switch on there higher end models, this switch removes the EQ circuits from the audio signal path to give you the best possible signal.
This brings us to the next and second most important rule; What ever works!
If you have a pair of nice speakers witch sound great when you boost the treble, then this is fine. It might not bring you’re system into the horned group of audiophile super systems, but does it really matter as long as YOU like what you hear?
Another use of the EQ is the survival mode; you remove some of the audio signal to give room for more details in other parts of the signal. A typical thing here is compensating for the room; in my living room the floor has a resonance of between 75 and 80Hz (a wooden floor). This creates a nasty mudded bass, so here there are 2 options. Use an EQ to remove some of the signal in the 75-80Hz area (by the cost of a change in the phase) or change the room’s acoustics.
The phase is important to the sound stage; if you change the phase in the mentioned 75-80Hz area you might experience that when the bass player hits a note in this area, the sound will come from a different location in the sound stage. Instead of coming more from the right speaker it suddenly comes more from the left speaker or even some times it might sound like the bass player is standing behind you (witch sounds cool but is an error, no less).
Sorry I did not pick this up in my first answer.
Just brought home the vintage receiver I was hunting for - Yamaha CR-1020. Its got beautifully full sound in the living room when set on "2" very cool!
I did try turning it up but it gets "stupid loud" real quick (sorry Zilch!) The receiver needs some dial lights but is otherwise very nice!
The speakers are JBL L200s upgraded with 2235s, 2405 tweeters and hand built crossovers into 3 ways a la L300s - very nice and very efficient.
There's another system downstairs for music, movies and such - but thats another thread (no yamaha gear there)
I did try turning it up but it gets "stupid loud" real quick (sorry Zilch!) The receiver needs some dial lights but is otherwise very nice!
The speakers are JBL L200s upgraded with 2235s, 2405 tweeters and hand built crossovers into 3 ways a la L300s - very nice and very efficient.
There's another system downstairs for music, movies and such - but thats another thread (no yamaha gear there)
Attachments
Great looking receiver, and terrific speakers. Should be a good match.
merrylander
AK Member
Nice, but do try and find another location for the CDP or the 1020 is going to get rather warm.For my CR-2040 I made a simple inverted U shape in MDF to boost the CDP and Cassette about 2" clear of the 2040's vent.