Mrbananapeel
New Member
I want to reuse a pair of speakers collecting dust for better purpose and this is what came in my mind.
Can woofers from a 2 way be used to make a subwoofer?
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I dunno. It would depend on the technical specs of the speakers you have if they might make it as a sub.
How low do they go?
Maybe you could put one on each side of a cabinet of your own design and create a push/pull design?
Do you have a hot amp to smoke them with?
Kinda being playful here - but you gave us almost no info to work with ... (you did say a pair, but didn't say 2 of a kind).
How low do they go?
Maybe you could put one on each side of a cabinet of your own design and create a push/pull design?
Do you have a hot amp to smoke them with?
Kinda being playful here - but you gave us almost no info to work with ... (you did say a pair, but didn't say 2 of a kind).
slimecity
Super Member
A lot of factors are at play. You are probably better off using one good driver in a well-designed cabinet than trying to use 2 - unless you have a good design that will work.
A lot of other factors are at play - the thiel parameters of the drivers are important - and even more important if building a ported box. Box dimensions are critical. There are some designs that use 2 drivers but one option along this route is 3-rd, 4th order bandpass - and thats about as complex as you can get.
A lot of other factors are at play - the thiel parameters of the drivers are important - and even more important if building a ported box. Box dimensions are critical. There are some designs that use 2 drivers but one option along this route is 3-rd, 4th order bandpass - and thats about as complex as you can get.
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Binkman
Lunatic Member
Couldn't have said it better.. e.g. How low hz can the woofer produce from the factory. I doubt it.but in a small area with low wattage listening? as said proper x-over or hz cut cap can give a dimensional effect if separate.. might use both in one cab reversed or peg on legs reflecting off floor, too. as noted cab ported consideration.
bink
bink
yes. you'll get all sorts of answers based on some single fact, but if the original speakers
"did" frequencies below 200hz (yet another single factoid posing as mid-bass definition)
you can
1. stack them to lower the XYZ ( google is your friend - hint - frequency response)
2. get an amp to drive them (individually or as a single "sub-" "woofer")
3. an adjustable crossover or simply test the speakers for their response and fix the
crossover point
try it, most folks over-think many issues, and the OP is led into the weeds about
phase response, null points, cabinet resonance, blending the top and bottom,
running 4R into a standard receiver, isobaric conditions, etc (Guess what?
anybody even do this for car subwooferz?)
the first subwoofer I heard about 40 years ago (maybe 50) was the DQ1W attached
to the DQ10s, and with a particular recording, the subwoofer added warmth to the
music. I still abide by that rule.
today's subwoofers are used to rattle your fillings, and the test track is the opening
scene to Top Gun. I knew a guy who could shake his neighbor's basement glasses
and he was half a mile away. couldn't hear the music but the whole place shook.
good luck and if you're in the same timezone, file a prelim with the USGS.
"did" frequencies below 200hz (yet another single factoid posing as mid-bass definition)
you can
1. stack them to lower the XYZ ( google is your friend - hint - frequency response)
2. get an amp to drive them (individually or as a single "sub-" "woofer")
3. an adjustable crossover or simply test the speakers for their response and fix the
crossover point
try it, most folks over-think many issues, and the OP is led into the weeds about
phase response, null points, cabinet resonance, blending the top and bottom,
running 4R into a standard receiver, isobaric conditions, etc (Guess what?
anybody even do this for car subwooferz?)
the first subwoofer I heard about 40 years ago (maybe 50) was the DQ1W attached
to the DQ10s, and with a particular recording, the subwoofer added warmth to the
music. I still abide by that rule.
today's subwoofers are used to rattle your fillings, and the test track is the opening
scene to Top Gun. I knew a guy who could shake his neighbor's basement glasses
and he was half a mile away. couldn't hear the music but the whole place shook.
good luck and if you're in the same timezone, file a prelim with the USGS.
Op is just asking? Well written though. no nags.
Can you post the brand/model of the speakers and maybe a pic or two? Having the specs on the speakers they are built into would be helpful.
You thinking about building a cabinet or using the existing?
The T/S parameters would be good to have, and they may exist on the web already, OR the drivers can be tested. What state/city are you located in? There may be someone near you who would test them for you.
You thinking about building a cabinet or using the existing?
The T/S parameters would be good to have, and they may exist on the web already, OR the drivers can be tested. What state/city are you located in? There may be someone near you who would test them for you.
Subwoofer drivers and woofers are fundamentally the same, but they are optimized differently. Features that make for a good subwoofer (e.g. heavy cone, large half-roll surround, long voice coil winding, etc.) are detrimental to midrange reproduction. So the question becomes, how far into the midrange was the original woofer operating and how well optimized was it for this task? If it was used in a 3-way and crossed at 200Hz, it could very well have all the trappings of an excellent subwoofer. If it was used in a 2-way, crossed at 2kHz, it will probably not have what it needs to make a very effective sub. Still doable, just sub-optimal.
