HelloDid you see the schematic there? I don't like lights when I'm listening so I added a resistor inline with a bulb recently on a Luxman to tone it down.
So it looks like the original TFM-15 bulbs were probably 6V. Plenty of sellers on the auction site are selling 12v bulbs for the TFM-15. So would two 12v bulbs in series be brighter or dimmer than two 6v bulbs in series? There are also some 8v bulbs available so maybe that would be a good compromise depending on whether one would like a brighter or dimmer illumination?once you spot the voltage, divide it in half and that’s actually the voltage that you want to search for in a bulb.
HelloSo it looks like the original TFM-15 bulbs were probably 6V. Plenty of sellers on the auction site are selling 12v bulbs for the TFM-15. So would two 12v bulbs in series be brighter or dimmer than two 6v bulbs in series? There are also some 8v bulbs available so maybe that would be a good compromise depending on whether one would like a brighter or dimmer illumination?
Voltage does not determine the brightness of a bulb. Wattage (volts x amps) does. That said, two 12v bulbs in series driven by 14v total is likely to not be very bright and two 6v bulbs in series there are likely to burn out quickly.Well the schematic shows a voltage to the bulbs as being 13.6v. But what I'd love to know, due to my limited electronic knowledge, is whether two 12v bulbs in series is brighter or dimmer than two 6v bulbs. I would assume the illumination level of two 8v bulbs would be somewhere in between.
Yep, the originals are indeed frosted, axial bulbs. The bulbs I'm looking at on eBay are all axial and 99% are unfrosted. They also vary between 100 and 200mA, so the 200mA versions would be the brightest, right? I don't need them to be super bright, so I'm thinking to get a couple 8v, 150mA bulbs and rough them up a bit with some sandpaper. I would just like them to illuminate the meter needles now that I've fixed them and they react normally. I don't need them to light up the room!My recollection is that there are other issues with replacing those bulbs. First, IIRC, they are axial bulbs with wire leads which are not that common. Second, again IIRC, they need to be frosted bulbs to look right...again not so common. YMMV.
Excellent info, thanks a lot!I don't have the answer to your question but I bought the axial leaded ones on eBay for my TFM-15, they were listed as 12v 150ma and they are a perfect brightness. Not super bright, not dim.
I also have a carver tfm-35 that's still on the original bulbs and it the tfm-15 with these new bulbs matches it.
Well, if the original Carver bulbs were 6v, that might explain why they burn out so reliably and quickly!Here's a better answer about under- and over-driving bulbs.
A 12v bulb driven at 7v (~60%) will draw about 75% of its rated current, produce only about 20% of its full-voltage light output, and last up to 500 times its rated lifetime.
A 6v bulb driven at 7v (~120%) will draw about 115% of its rated current, produce about 180% of its normal light output, and last only about 10% of its rated lifetime.
I guess it's possible that the 13.6v in the schematic is supposed to say 12.6v, in which case two 6.3v bulbs in series would make some sense. Then 150mA through the 10 Ohm series resistor would drop the 14v indicated before the resistor to 12.5v, and every thing would be hunky dory---except as you say the bulbs would burn out pretty regularly---which I guess they did.Well, if the original Carver bulbs were 6v, that might explain why they burn out so reliably and quickly!![]()
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