My speakers cables are 22" off the floorI prefer cable lifters.

My speakers cables are 22" off the floorI prefer cable lifters.

Now, this one is actually Funny (er). You made an unfunny/unrelated statement of opinion, prompting my opinion, that had nothing to do with the OP or remotely related to the OP's share on a KLIPSCH branded thread.I'm sorry, you'll have to define the level of contribution required to meet your standards and what method you use to measure that, I'll endeavor to not cause you to feel the need to question my posts in the future.
And that's still a roll of the dice for manufacturers. Reminds me of when people bitched when Sonus Faber started using less leather on some of their cabinets. No affect at all on sound quality, but some prefer cow hide over beautiful wood veneer for some reason.Point is, pinching production Pennies is OK, as long as the results are inconsequential to the customer's satisfaction, however that may be defined.

can't hurt except slight reduction in air volume. Inconsequential.I've done the same - I had some dynamat left over and layered some over the drivers in a set of KLF-20's. I'm not sure if it made a difference but it couldn't hurt I figured.
I don't see that I did the tweeter horn, I think I ran out of dynamat. But the tweeters also have the Crites Ti in them. Why I covered the dingin' magnet on the woofers, I have no idea.
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IDK, but it pales in comparison to the MAJOR jbl Faux Pas where black is a forward motion of a voice coil and RED is backwards motion. 180 degrees out of POLARITY with the rest of the industry and the world.Hi,
Working on the Tweeters of my KG-4's and noticed the + positive wire is GREEN?
From what I can find that seems correct, but...
Just wondering why they did that?
I did the Crites diaphrahms in my own KG-4's a while back and it made a nice difference. It gave me some more extension on the top end while losing some harshness. That sounds a little counter-intuitive but for me it was an immediate and obvious improvement. I tend to claim tin ear too so if I noticed it right away it was definitely doing something.
Some time before that I did crossover caps. The only one that really did anything was the ailing off-value electrolytic in the woofer section. Replacing the films in the tweeter network with different ones honestly did nothing I could hear. I did use films in the woofer side but how much of the improvement was the film and how much was just replacing a bad capacitor I couldn't guess. It removed some overlap in the mids caused by the woofer network not working quite like it should have been.
Might try damping the horn itself though. I've got some off-cuts of a Dynamat type material around. Seems it would do the same job as the rope caulk and I wouldn't have to buy anything.
sort of off-topic but since we're talking KG-4, I vaguely recall someone mentioning a good while ago about weight to the back of the passive for some purpose. Anyone know what thats about or what its supposed to do?
It's a non-linear proposition.Adding weight to passives is a mod thats been around for a long time, its supposed to lower the freq of the speaker a little but can also cause over extension of the passive if driven hard at high volumes. Was more popular on fortes & chorus2 but applies to any passive radiator speaker, only lowers it a few hz though so not a substantial mod.
This is especially true for building DIY amplifiers. It becomes an obsession.I might be able to afford to buy different speakers if I had fewer hobbies: neither bicycles, guitars, motorcycles nor Hi-Fi are cheap hobbies in and of themselves, but to indulge in them simultaneously? Something’s got to give. That said, my parsimonious ways not withstanding, the real allure for me is the appeal of diy culture: diving deep and learning everything I can in an obsessive manner, not just doing half baked mods to save a few bucks, but going all in, learning the whys and the hows along the way, going all in and building from the ground up, addressing the flaws and reengineering them from the ground up, building something much better than I can buy at any price and be able to sit back, listen and say “I made that.” Anyone can buy anything if they have enough money, but few can look at a stack of wood or parts and say “I can make something with that.” That’s why I’m here: spending money is boring. I’m interested in building stuff that nobody else has.
It's a non-linear proposition.
Cut the woofer frequency input in half, and physics demand 4 times the excursion.
Your mileage WILL vary with that proportion, until stalled by suspension or voice coil destruction from too many available WATTS.
This why I prefer big and long HORNS, for Sub bass!
Good post.Was just answering the question asked.
Ive never done the mod but its been around for a long time, I read about it 10-15 years ago over at the other forum from moray james, he & and quite a few others have done it with no reported problems or issues. It will lower the freq a few hz just the same as extending the ports on some ported speakers will such as on chorus or kp301.

Good post.
Moray got some drivers from me years ago for FH-1's. I just tweaked the ports in my latest Super Heresys by 1 inch and flared both ends. Cost me 1.5 db and I got from 53.3 Hz. to 46.86 Hz. Tuning. A pretty good trade. Plust I increase box volume by 1 liter by using a Neo woofer with smaller magnet and losing 10 pounds of weight to the speaker. Neo magnets are more money thought and may not justify their higher expense for some.
thats nothing some of mine are 22'! (really just 15' but I'm still scared up the ladder)My speakers cables are 22" off the floor![]()
and for that reason if I had to get them down from the beams more than once or twice neos would make a ton of sense. I can definitely see why people moving gear for shows like them. Their backs probably appreciate it.Neo magnets are more money thought and may not justify their higher expense for some.