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Cheap kg-4 tweeter modification.

I'm sorry, you'll have to define the level of contribution required to meet your standards and what method you use to measure that, I'll endeavor to not cause you to feel the need to question my posts in the future.
Now, this one is actually Funny (er). You made an unfunny/unrelated statement of opinion, prompting my opinion, that had nothing to do with the OP or remotely related to the OP's share on a KLIPSCH branded thread.
Now that you know what my "standards" are you are not obligated to meet them, or even apologize.
Which of course, might provide some redeeming entertainment value from an overcompensation point of view.
 
Point is, pinching production Pennies is OK, as long as the results are inconsequential to the customer's satisfaction, however that may be defined.
And that's still a roll of the dice for manufacturers. Reminds me of when people bitched when Sonus Faber started using less leather on some of their cabinets. No affect at all on sound quality, but some prefer cow hide over beautiful wood veneer for some reason.
 
I did the Crites diaphrahms in my own KG-4's a while back and it made a nice difference. It gave me some more extension on the top end while losing some harshness. That sounds a little counter-intuitive but for me it was an immediate and obvious improvement. I tend to claim tin ear too so if I noticed it right away it was definitely doing something.

Some time before that I did crossover caps. The only one that really did anything was the ailing off-value electrolytic in the woofer section. Replacing the films in the tweeter network with different ones honestly did nothing I could hear. I did use films in the woofer side but how much of the improvement was the film and how much was just replacing a bad capacitor I couldn't guess. It removed some overlap in the mids caused by the woofer network not working quite like it should have been.

Might try damping the horn itself though. I've got some off-cuts of a Dynamat type material around. Seems it would do the same job as the rope caulk and I wouldn't have to buy anything.


sort of off-topic but since we're talking KG-4, I vaguely recall someone mentioning a good while ago about weight to the back of the passive for some purpose. Anyone know what thats about or what its supposed to do?
 
I've done the same - I had some dynamat left over and layered some over the drivers in a set of KLF-20's. I'm not sure if it made a difference but it couldn't hurt I figured.
I don't see that I did the tweeter horn, I think I ran out of dynamat. But the tweeters also have the Crites Ti in them. Why I covered the dingin' magnet on the woofers, I have no idea.
Klipsch KLF-20 dynamat05.jpg
 
I haven’t modded new speakers, but I’ve modded new amps and preamps, upgrading capacitors and installing bypass caps, something I’ll gladly do again.
 
I've done the same - I had some dynamat left over and layered some over the drivers in a set of KLF-20's. I'm not sure if it made a difference but it couldn't hurt I figured.
I don't see that I did the tweeter horn, I think I ran out of dynamat. But the tweeters also have the Crites Ti in them. Why I covered the dingin' magnet on the woofers, I have no idea.
View attachment 3146045
can't hurt except slight reduction in air volume. Inconsequential.
 
Hi,
Working on the Tweeters of my KG-4's and noticed the + positive wire is GREEN?

From what I can find that seems correct, but...

Just wondering why they did that?
 
Hi,
Working on the Tweeters of my KG-4's and noticed the + positive wire is GREEN?

From what I can find that seems correct, but...

Just wondering why they did that?
IDK, but it pales in comparison to the MAJOR jbl Faux Pas where black is a forward motion of a voice coil and RED is backwards motion. 180 degrees out of POLARITY with the rest of the industry and the world.
They have reversed this terrible lack of convention (going to Red Plus, black minus, like everyone else) recently but now you have to know specifically which and when the DATE of your drivers and know what the exact DATE the change was made, creating even more confusion.
This is much like Nikon going against the rest of the world with their lenses that click in place Counter Clockwise instead of Clockwise, like the rest of ALL lens makers of the world (presumably for fear of being sued by Zeiss way back?). Who knows?, but proof once again that lawyers and judges can muck things up way worse than bad engineers.
Even on their schematic of 1990's/early 2000's PA speaker connection data, with Different Color wires, all it states on the frikkin's correctly numbered drivers (like 2206, 2226 woofers), all the crossover data states if + or - which means NOTHING to a guy trying to connect things Correctly.

Ask me how I know!
 
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I did the Crites diaphrahms in my own KG-4's a while back and it made a nice difference. It gave me some more extension on the top end while losing some harshness. That sounds a little counter-intuitive but for me it was an immediate and obvious improvement. I tend to claim tin ear too so if I noticed it right away it was definitely doing something.

Some time before that I did crossover caps. The only one that really did anything was the ailing off-value electrolytic in the woofer section. Replacing the films in the tweeter network with different ones honestly did nothing I could hear. I did use films in the woofer side but how much of the improvement was the film and how much was just replacing a bad capacitor I couldn't guess. It removed some overlap in the mids caused by the woofer network not working quite like it should have been.

Might try damping the horn itself though. I've got some off-cuts of a Dynamat type material around. Seems it would do the same job as the rope caulk and I wouldn't have to buy anything.


sort of off-topic but since we're talking KG-4, I vaguely recall someone mentioning a good while ago about weight to the back of the passive for some purpose. Anyone know what thats about or what its supposed to do?

Adding weight to passives is a mod thats been around for a long time, its supposed to lower the freq of the speaker a little but can also cause over extension of the passive if driven hard at high volumes. Was more popular on fortes & chorus2 but applies to any passive radiator speaker, only lowers it a few hz though so not a substantial mod.
 
Adding weight to passives is a mod thats been around for a long time, its supposed to lower the freq of the speaker a little but can also cause over extension of the passive if driven hard at high volumes. Was more popular on fortes & chorus2 but applies to any passive radiator speaker, only lowers it a few hz though so not a substantial mod.
It's a non-linear proposition.
Cut the woofer frequency input in half, and physics demand 4 times the excursion.
Your mileage WILL vary with that proportion, until stalled by suspension or voice coil destruction from too many available WATTS.
This why I prefer big and long HORNS, for Sub bass!
 
KG-4's in good shape, were a fabulous bang for the buck, even when New.
They still used Plywood in their construction in 1985 (no MDF when Paul still owned it), when I toured the factory in Hope.
Designed by Gary Gillum of MWM fame.
I even recommended those to my wife's sister when New.
Some lucky stiffs even scored those for $40 at a yard sale.
Now at that price, you can't steal them in slow motion for sure. LOL.
 
I might be able to afford to buy different speakers if I had fewer hobbies: neither bicycles, guitars, motorcycles nor Hi-Fi are cheap hobbies in and of themselves, but to indulge in them simultaneously? Something’s got to give. That said, my parsimonious ways not withstanding, the real allure for me is the appeal of diy culture: diving deep and learning everything I can in an obsessive manner, not just doing half baked mods to save a few bucks, but going all in, learning the whys and the hows along the way, going all in and building from the ground up, addressing the flaws and reengineering them from the ground up, building something much better than I can buy at any price and be able to sit back, listen and say “I made that.” Anyone can buy anything if they have enough money, but few can look at a stack of wood or parts and say “I can make something with that.” That’s why I’m here: spending money is boring. I’m interested in building stuff that nobody else has.
This is especially true for building DIY amplifiers. It becomes an obsession.
 
It's a non-linear proposition.
Cut the woofer frequency input in half, and physics demand 4 times the excursion.
Your mileage WILL vary with that proportion, until stalled by suspension or voice coil destruction from too many available WATTS.
This why I prefer big and long HORNS, for Sub bass!

Was just answering the question asked.
Ive never done the mod but its been around for a long time, I read about it 10-15 years ago over at the other forum from moray james, he & and quite a few others have done it with no reported problems or issues. It will lower the freq a few hz just the same as extending the ports on some ported speakers will such as on chorus or kp301.
 
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Was just answering the question asked.
Ive never done the mod but its been around for a long time, I read about it 10-15 years ago over at the other forum from moray james, he & and quite a few others have done it with no reported problems or issues. It will lower the freq a few hz just the same as extending the ports on some ported speakers will such as on chorus or kp301.
Good post.
Moray got some drivers from me years ago for FH-1's. I just tweaked the ports in my latest Super Heresys by 1 inch and flared both ends. Cost me 1.5 db and I got from 53.3 Hz. to 46.86 Hz. Tuning. A pretty good trade. Plust I increase box volume by 1 liter by using a Neo woofer with smaller magnet and losing 10 pounds of weight to the speaker. Neo magnets are more money thought and may not justify their higher expense for some.
 
Hi,
Wow, want to think you Gentlemen on all this great Klipsch information!

I saw the Ad for the KG-4's, did a little research and saw they were liked and supported.

Went to see them, got a good deal, and hit the ground running.

DEFTECHY, has been helping me behind the scenes, so to speak, and...

Wanted, to thank him very much, for the ALL the help, publicly!

They say the nicest, most knowledgeable Stereophile's are here on Audio Karma, and I have to agree!

rgg.jpg
 
Good post.
Moray got some drivers from me years ago for FH-1's. I just tweaked the ports in my latest Super Heresys by 1 inch and flared both ends. Cost me 1.5 db and I got from 53.3 Hz. to 46.86 Hz. Tuning. A pretty good trade. Plust I increase box volume by 1 liter by using a Neo woofer with smaller magnet and losing 10 pounds of weight to the speaker. Neo magnets are more money thought and may not justify their higher expense for some.

Thanks, I try to help people when I can based on my personal experiences or relay what Ive read from others, such as the adding weight mod to passives, mr james isnt as active as he used to be & cant really post any of his knowledge or experience with modifications over there anymore... :(

I imagine your heresys sound great with those mods, thats the main thing that turns me away from stock heresys is the lack of any bass below ~50hz.

I also like neo magnet woofers, I recently owned a pair of Epic CF4 that had the neo magnets, they were rated for like 1400 watts peak! one of the highest wattage speakers klipsch made, yet the magnet is only a few inches around. I also had 4 NOS woofers for them... sold the speakers & woofers for far less than they were worth at the time.
 
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Thanks for the kind words, @seagiant... happy to help answer your questions based on my experience, lots of other far more experienced & knowledgeable members on here though so be sure to take in any & all advice you can get then make the decision that best meets your needs. Sounds like you made some good choices and should be happy with your KG4s running on your vintage Sansui amp!

Whos the beauty in the pic???
 
My speakers cables are 22" off the floor :rockon:
thats nothing some of mine are 22'! (really just 15' but I'm still scared up the ladder)
Neo magnets are more money thought and may not justify their higher expense for some.
and for that reason if I had to get them down from the beams more than once or twice neos would make a ton of sense. I can definitely see why people moving gear for shows like them. Their backs probably appreciate it.
 
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