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CONFESSION - about cables and interconnects

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The Tripplite Isobar is the main power strip that I use . I must have a dozen . But , the Conrad Johnson premier 11a sounds better when not plugged into it . I also tried a few different Monster ones and another one I don’t remember the name of. Don’t get me wrong, the amp sounds excellent plugged into the power strips , just better when not.
I always use a Tripplite isobar when gigging as it lets me know if the outlets are wired wrong , and it happens more than it should. Also, plugging all my gear into the same source helps prevent ground loop hum.
Yes the Tripp-Lite Isobar. They are awesome! Before I purchased mine, I asked the IT guys at work. That is what they recommended. They said for a straight surge protector, basically Tripp-Lite and nothing else. :biggrin:

Tripplite has replaced a melted Isobar that saved my gear from a lightning strike.

Even if Tripp-Lite would have not replaced the melted Isobar, it would have been money VERY well spent. ;)
 
What’s always confused me about the whole cable/interconnects debate is at what level of gear that you have to have so they make a difference. If you have a $200 Sony AV receiver do they make a HUGE difference vs having $50,000 worth of gear or is it the exact opposite? Do you only notice the difference if you already have a great system and then they make it sound so much more amazing?! No one has ever been able to explain it to me.
 
Specifications:
Aluminata AC Cable

- Huge 8 AWG/8.36 mm2 custom wound finely stranded copper alloy conductors

I don't see any definition of what actual Copper alloy they use.

Maybe I'll ask them. However, since they've gone to great pains to keep the wire a proprietary secret I doubt if they'll be very forthcoming.

I did find this in a quick search:
Is aluminum copper alloy strong?
I also wanted to learn more about copper-aluminium alloys. It seems that they are less conductive and have more resistivity than copper alone. However, they exhibit good corrosion resistance because a thin aluminium layer forms on the surface.

"Nordic Gold" is a copper aluminium alloy used for coinage.
 
The fact that you are exploring cables means that you are opening your ears to the genuine beauty of this hobby. The pleasure music brings comes so naturally that even the right transistor radio in the right setting can create the same feeling of synergy as the most expensive hifi system in the loveliest of homes. For me, exploring, not just cables, but other areas of audio hardware, has helped me listen to music with more focus and care.
 
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Agree. People are going to believe whatever they want to believe. When you give personal experience you will get the confirmation bias response. I don't think I have ever seen a thread where a person changes their mind by whatever is said in a thread. Anymore I share experiences and call it good.
You get the “ confirmation bias” response because it’s a real thing. Blind tests are a more realistic measure.
I am a cable skeptic, but I also believe that everything in the signal path affects the signal. That doesn’t mean minuscule changes in cable makeups have an audible effect.
I’ve had my mind changed from threads here, but not about cables.
 
You get the “ confirmation bias” response because it’s a real thing. Blind tests are a more realistic measure.
I am a cable skeptic, but I also believe that everything in the signal path affects the signal. That doesn’t mean minuscule changes in cable makeups have an audible effect.
I’ve had my mind changed from threads here, but not about cables.

No reason to tell me cause I really don't care. You do you, I will set up my own system as I see fit. What works for me doesn't have to be justified to anyone else.
 
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What kind of differences did you notice? Was it for the better? Did you notice a change after you changed the IC’s and then another after the power cord? What kind of power cord did you change? Not the brand, but was it one of those 3 prong IEC types like on a typical computer P.S. or was it hard wired in?
If it were me, just to eliminate my own confirmation bias, I would have someone ( not the guy that gave you the wires) connect one channel with the new IC, another with the old and mix and match blindly as I listened to a mono source. Do that about 10 times or so and see how many times you select the new wires.

Remember to clean those connections before you start your experimentations. No kidding, the biggest change I have ever heard, all else staying the same, came from cleaning plugs and jacks. Also, check the electrical needs of the appliance to make sure the power cord is appropriate. They are not all rated the same and this can really make a difference depending on the power draw.
 
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Got this several years ago as the local store was closing...thought it might be an aluminum mix with copper, never have tried it...yet! Thanks for the heads up ;)

That is some serious quality wire, it’s basically 0 resistants. You need to try it. It’s true OFC and pure silver coated. Google the spec on that stuff.

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I have a few spools left too; it’s amazing stuff.
 
try finding some Auvio branded 12awg speaker wire.

some of the best cable you can buy, low buck.. just out of production so gotta eBay the crap out of it. No joke, I look every evening.

I think I am going to join you on Ebay looking for those. They look amazing. :D I tend to look several times a week for my favorite tapes: Denon HD8 and TDK SA-X. They are getting very difficult to find now. :eek:
 
What’s always confused me about the whole cable/interconnects debate is at what level of gear that you have to have so they make a difference. If you have a $200 Sony AV receiver do they make a HUGE difference vs having $50,000 worth of gear or is it the exact opposite? Do you only notice the difference if you already have a great system and then they make it sound so much more amazing?! No one has ever been able to explain it to me.

I would answer that by saying: NO... if you have a, well please forgive me, poorer-quality, system (mine is pieced together over time from here and there as I don't have a huge budget) they make either very little difference, to no difference at all. My husband has this $120 Sony receiver in his "office", where he plays pool with his friends and has a little bar... he has these (what I would consider horrible Polk floor standing speakers he bought new for $99 each - P50s I think) and a no-name DVD player. For his system, this cabling would make absolutely no difference at all. If you have something several orders of magnitude removed from that, yes, you will hear a difference. The further up the scale you go, the more of a difference you will hear because that level of equipment is just that good. Now if your hearing is not the best (my sweetie is a commercial pilot and he has a significant upper frequency hearing loss), then there is nothing even the best equipment can do if you cannot hear the difference. ;)
 
The CAT-5 speaker cables convinced me that speaker cable break-in is real. At first they reminded me of audible barbed wire. They were harsh and peaky. I was on the verge of removing them. I held off because they took several hours to make. In this case the outcome was good. After 40+ hours they smoothed right out and didn't irritate any more.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but it is my understanding that the current travels on the surface of the wires (larger diameter wire, would have more surface area, thus less resistance). I would imagine if there is a "break-in period" for wires, that there is a manufacturing or corrosion issue with that wire. Mechanics do not install old battery cables they got from junkyards because they are well "broken-in", they install new cables. Same goes with IT professionals. They do not demand used, "broken-in" ethernet cables, but install new ones. :idea:
 
I think I am going to join you on Ebay looking for those. They look amazing. :D I tend to look several times a week for my favorite tapes: Denon HD8 and TDK SA-X. They are getting very difficult to find now. :eek:

I’m telling you, If you find it buy it; then also make a 15awg shielded set. It’s ok. There is Some on the site now.

the stuff you want is the 12awg; the stuff is more like 10awg it’s super heavy and soft and is a true OFC.

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This stuff looks great dressed up too, the only issue is it’s so thick it’s hard to get it into vintage gear. A set of pin connectors work well for vintage binding posts. I tray to swap all my gear over to banana/spade. Nerve audio has some solder on banana plugs that is a nice fit for this stuff. Let us know if you find a spool, I think you instantly notice a difference. @Bill Ashton you need to try that stuff man. I’m not kidding.

I’m-spool it and let it hang over a door for a few hours to let it uncoil, than hook them up. It’s a 25’ spool, make 1 12.5’ set and you will understand. :)
 
I think I am going to join you on Ebay looking for those. They look amazing. :D I tend to look several times a week for my favorite tapes: Denon HD8 and TDK SA-X. They are getting very difficult to find now. :eek:

my favorite tapes are the Maxell XLII I can’t get enough of them.

I landed this Teac deck yesterday need to replace a lamp but it was serviced by Teac in 96. I’m about to get it into the shelf now :)

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I did install a dedicated outlet for my stereo with it's own breaker circuit. I don't know if there is a difference from before but I feel better about it. I did invest in some reasonable Morrow ICs but I don't think I can go beyond that. I would rather spend money on better components. Now if I win the lottery who knows what my sick addiction would lead to.
 
my favorite tapes are the Maxell XLII I can’t get enough of them.

I landed this Teac deck yesterday need to replace a lamp but it was serviced by Teac in 96. I’m about to get it into the shelf now :)

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I may have some of those left (XLII)... I have two decks an Awia F810 and a JVC TDV-531. Tell you what, if I do find the tapes... I will put them on Ebay and make you a great price. :)
 
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