DCM TF2000 Deal of the Decade - with pics!
- Thread starter 707kevin
- Start date
Thank you!
I can hope so, are those yours?
I understand why the crossover is there and what its goal is, but I could not tell you what a crossover is doing just by looking at schematics, that's why I'm concerned that I may have some flaws in my diagram. I would not recognize an egregious mistake. Taking the 'actual' layout and turning it to a 'logical' layout is a weird transition but I just tried to determine: "is it parallel, or is it series?" and map them out. This thing is nuts though. I've only dealt with simple 2-way stuff before on nice clean PCBs.
I wish I new someone I could just mail out the crossovers to and have them updated and refreshed without costing too much $$$.
Yep.
I need to put them back out by the TV and get a photo. They make a 55" screen look like a computer monitor.
OK, minor setback #1.
Some of the drivers surrounds began to separate from the basket during unscrewing the drivers. The screws were at such a sharp angle, that they rubbed the outer 'ring' (waddaya call it? Thick cardboard ring around a driver?) and lifted the surrounds up in a few places. The mid with too much excursion? Its surround was already loosened before I started to remove the driver. Hopefully that was the problem I was having earlier.
I've never re-foamed (or re-rubbered in this case) a driver.
The surrounds are not torn or creased.
The surround is fully attached to the cone.
They are only detached from the basket in a few places, up to about 1/8th of the circumference.
What do I do?
Can I just glue down the loosened sections without worrying about shimming the voice coil and all that? It should be centered already, because most of the surround is still attached to both the cone and the basket.
Also, which glue seems to hold the best?
Arg
Some of the drivers surrounds began to separate from the basket during unscrewing the drivers. The screws were at such a sharp angle, that they rubbed the outer 'ring' (waddaya call it? Thick cardboard ring around a driver?) and lifted the surrounds up in a few places. The mid with too much excursion? Its surround was already loosened before I started to remove the driver. Hopefully that was the problem I was having earlier.
I've never re-foamed (or re-rubbered in this case) a driver.
The surrounds are not torn or creased.
The surround is fully attached to the cone.
They are only detached from the basket in a few places, up to about 1/8th of the circumference.
What do I do?
Can I just glue down the loosened sections without worrying about shimming the voice coil and all that? It should be centered already, because most of the surround is still attached to both the cone and the basket.
Also, which glue seems to hold the best?
Arg
tensleep
Addicted Member
...(waddaya call it? Thick cardboard ring around a driver?)...
Arg
This ring, even though it is on the outside of the basket and doesn't seal anything, is still called the speaker gasket - at least, that is what it is called on my JBL 4410 studio monitors. It can get confusing, because there could well be a gasket between the basket and the baffle/motor board that actually provides a seal. My outer gasket is only cosmetic.
I can't really advise you on the surround issues - good luck!
They were mine. Perfect, like new condition. I just didn't have the space for them, and because of that, while they sounded great, they couldn't reach their full potential. Have rotating Timewindow 1's and CX-17's in their place.
BTW, I dismanteled my TW1's, so I feel your "black death" pain.
Not all of them, but some do resemble weekend work by college frat boys -
(and the TimeFrames do qualify for that judgement call!)
Catalysis
Member
Whereas I don't normally countenance meddling with speaker designs, I often look at my TF600s and think "what if". There is clearly a lack of stiffness in the MDF and it must surely flex quite a lot when dealing with a lot of bass, for example. Makes you wonder what an LS3/5A-quality real wood box with robust bracing might sonically achieve with these.
The other possible chassis upgrade might be to put in a outboard rear brace extending from the top of the center rear of the speaker down to an extended plinth, much in the same way that modern Quads are braced.
The stupid thing is that they sound so magnificent anyway. Maybe it's the compliance of the MDF that helps to produce the magic? Wishful thinking, maybe, as the build suggests they were very much made to a price point.
This is such a successful design that I would not be at all surprised if it were to make a comeback at some point, hopefully using modern components and materials.
Donkey Karma
Super Member
How do they sound?
Donkey Karma
Super Member
Nice work!
jarchila
New Member
There is internal bracing from the transmission line and should also be other internal bracing along side the driver openings. You should replace all of the electrolytic caps they are probably dry by now if you haven't already. It looked like some of them were no longer uniform either from the pics.
jarchila
New Member
Nice job on the refoaming the cabinetI've been distracted.
Bought a 1975 Fiat Spider. (Possibly my worst/best car purchase ever)
Anyways.
I used some glue from speakerworks.com to repair the lifting surrounds on every driver.
I also got the headliner glued & stapled.
I don't have a ton to compare them to but they sound 'Big'. The soundstage extended beyond the walls of the living room it seemed. I was impressed by how large they made a little 12x18 living room sound, where other speakers I have seem confined to the space. They didn't go too low, but low enough much lower than my Zaph ZA5.3 s. Decent output, but the highs seemed to break up at extreme volumes. (one little vifa can't pull it's own at 90+db I guess) I wanted to leave them in the living room for daily listening, but they are just too big.