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DCM TF600 quandary

C

chaoslodge

New Member
Greetings! New member with a technical question -(couldn't find any references to the issue in a search):
Have owned a pair of the DCM TF600's for many years and while I liked them, they've always been a bit "off".
Turns out I have ended up with 2 right side speakers (all tweeters on upper left -learned that here! :) )
Never knew these were supposed to be mirrored and am wondering what, if anything, can be done to correct the problem (i.e. turn a right into a left?)
Is this something that could be dealt with by moving the tweeter to the upper right (pretty handy, could easily do) or is this more on an electronic level (not my skillset)?
If I can't modify one, what could I do to improve sound?

Thoughts, suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
 
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They were left and right. I think your drivers would be on the same side also? Is that what you are referring to? There is a tweet mounted to the front of each upper driver. You should also have 2 tweeters facing the rear on each side bevel a few inches from the top of each speaker, 6 total.
I got a set of 600's at a yard sale and ran them for a year before I realized that the left forward facing tweet mounted on the driver was not working. When I pried the top plate off and rolled down the sock, that's when I found the two rear firing tweets. I used one of the functioning rear facing ones to replace it and got 4 tweets from Dayton to replace the 3 bad rear ones (that I didn't even know were there).
Are your serial numbers both odd or both even? Can you use a flashlight and see the driver position? Seems like you would have to cut a new opening and plug the old one to get it correctly oriented. I would probably just live with it as is. The two crossovers were wired accordingly for left and right also. I think I have copies of wiring diagram and user manuals if you need them.
Klank
 
Took about a half day to get them sorted. They are a great sounding set of speakers, especially for the $50 I have in them. Including replacement tweets.
 
I have never heard of someone being in the position that you are in. I think moving the driver/tweeter could be doable, but filling in the remaining empty space would be a bugger to accomplish. If I were you, I would buy a correct pair and keep the odd pair as a parts supply. As OWJ pointed out they are not in great demand and if you can find a pair, they likely won't kill your bank account. BTW, it is better to knock off the bottom and pull the socks up, rather than down. That way it won't have as much of a chance of stretching the sock. I have learned this from personal experience.
 
I read that some distributors did not realize they were mirrored and sold some pairs as 2 lefts or 2 rights and no consecutive serial numbers. Agree with Bubba on the socks if you are completely removing them to clean etc. I had no problem working from the top down just enough to get access to the upper driver to r&r the attached tweety and the rear facing ones. Was surprised that the foam underneath was in good condition and did not need attention. I feel pretty lucky to have found these two 600's and 3 CX-17's for half a hundred.
 
I don't think the mirror-image is a killer problem. The TF600 has such a good soundstage presentation that if everything is working right, it shouldn't be a huge problem. I do know that the "DCM" badge should go to the inside on matched pairs.

But first, go here and follow my repairs on my second pair of TF600s. Mine were a bit off, too, certainly compared to my perfect first pair. Turns out the seller had paid someone to replace the front tweeter which is placed over the upper of the two "woofers". I thought the problem was the tweeter but it turned out to be the actual woofer wasn't working but you could not really tell just by listening through a paper-towel tube because the tweeter masked the defective woofer. That link will also show you what I found as replacement tweeters for them. And, as previously mentioned, remember there are three tweeters in each cabinet. They usually get blown by playing them at loud volume levels using an underpowered amp which introduces distortion and fries the tweets.
 
KlankTank said:
They were left and right. I think your drivers would be on the same side also? Is that what you are referring to? There is a tweet mounted to the front of each upper driver. You should also have 2 tweeters facing the rear on each side bevel a few inches from the top of each speaker, 6 total.
I got a set of 600's at a yard sale and ran them for a year before I realized that the left forward facing tweet mounted on the driver was not working. When I pried the top plate off and rolled down the sock, that's when I found the two rear firing tweets. I used one of the functioning rear facing ones to replace it and got 4 tweets from Dayton to replace the 3 bad rear ones (that I didn't even know were there).
Are your serial numbers both odd or both even? Can you use a flashlight and see the driver position? Seems like you would have to cut a new opening and plug the old one to get it correctly oriented. I would probably just live with it as is. The two crossovers were wired accordingly for left and right also. I think I have copies of wiring diagram and user manuals if you need them.
Klank
Click to expand...
Bought these new from a local place going out of biz many years ago, so yes, I agree they were one of the retailers not understanding they were mirrored (just as I was ignorant all these years!). they both have odd serial #'s and the badges are both in the upper left. All speakers seem to produce sound so I think they are working as intended but can only feel 4 openings (one ~6" round in the front, one ~6" square below badge, two ~3" rear facing tweets on the bevels). I'm guessing another mid/woofer are in there probably behind a grill or something. There is an opening right along the top behind the wood cap but it is narrow and rectangular and not a shape I associate with speakers, but?

You mentioned the crossover wiring specifically for L/R. I think that's probably where the issue lies with having a non-mirrored set but reading others' comments, it doesn't sound like it should be a major sound hit regardless. I would be interested in your kind offer of diagrams, etc. though! Thanks so much!
 
KingBubba said:
I have never heard of someone being in the position that you are in. I think moving the driver/tweeter could be doable, but filling in the remaining empty space would be a bugger to accomplish. If I were you, I would buy a correct pair and keep the odd pair as a parts supply. As OWJ pointed out they are not in great demand and if you can find a pair, they likely won't kill your bank account. BTW, it is better to knock off the bottom and pull the socks up, rather than down. That way it won't have as much of a chance of stretching the sock. I have learned this from personal experience.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the words of experience! Will keep that in mind
 
BMWCCA said:
I don't think the mirror-image is a killer problem. The TF600 has such a good soundstage presentation that if everything is working right, it shouldn't be a huge problem. I do know that the "DCM" badge should go to the inside on matched pairs.

But first, go here and follow my repairs on my second pair of TF600s. Mine were a bit off, too, certainly compared to my perfect first pair. Turns out the seller had paid someone to replace the front tweeter which is placed over the upper of the two "woofers". I thought the problem was the tweeter but it turned out to be the actual woofer wasn't working but you could not really tell just by listening through a paper-towel tube because the tweeter masked the defective woofer. That link will also show you what I found as replacement tweeters for them. And, as previously mentioned, remember there are three tweeters in each cabinet. They usually get blown by playing them at loud volume levels using an underpowered amp which introduces distortion and fries the tweets.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link! Great info
 
KingBubba said:
I have never heard of someone being in the position that you are in. I think moving the driver/tweeter could be doable, but filling in the remaining empty space would be a bugger to accomplish. If I were you, I would buy a correct pair and keep the odd pair as a parts supply. As OWJ pointed out they are not in great demand and if you can find a pair, they likely won't kill your bank account. BTW, it is better to knock off the bottom and pull the socks up, rather than down. That way it won't have as much of a chance of stretching the sock. I have learned this from personal experience.
Click to expand...
I've not taken the DCMs apart any further than to repair some drivers but my understanding of a "transmission line" cabinet is that not only would the speaker placement need be moved but isn't there some sort of "ant-farm" maze of tunnels imbedded which makes up the transmission-line functionality as something akin to a folded horn?
 
chaoslodge said:
Bought these new from a local place going out of biz many years ago, so yes, I agree they were one of the retailers not understanding they were mirrored (just as I was ignorant all these years!). they both have odd serial #'s and the badges are both in the upper left. All speakers seem to produce sound so I think they are working as intended but can only feel 4 openings (one ~6" round in the front, one ~6" square below badge, two ~3" rear facing tweets on the bevels). I'm guessing another mid/woofer are in there probably behind a grill or something. There is an opening right along the top behind the wood cap but it is narrow and rectangular and not a shape I associate with speakers, but?

You mentioned the crossover wiring specifically for L/R. I think that's probably where the issue lies with having a non-mirrored set but reading others' comments, it doesn't sound like it should be a major sound hit regardless. I would be interested in your kind offer of diagrams, etc. though! Thanks so much
Click to expand...
Sorry, I meant 6 tweeters total on the pair. 2 rear and 1 on upper driver each unit.
Will locate printed manuals. Not sure where I got them from.
For now, I have a link for readable manuals:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/894855/Dcm-Tf-600-Series.html#manual
 
Back in 2012 I collected a number of the DCM TimeFrame speakers. Built a thread here with spec sheets and the manuals for them as well
I sold mine off, but kept the TF600s, the best of the bunch for my use. Anyway, the TF600 manual is in the 4th post of the thread:

DCM Time Frame comparison

Over the last couple months I've managed to collect a few pairs of the DCM Time Frame speakers. I just got the TimePieces yesterday ... The TF1000s came earlier this week, and the TF700s were a couple weeks back. The TF600s & TF400s came with black painted oak caps - ugh - I stripped them down...
audiokarma.org
 
I do not remember seeing any honeycomb like material inside any TF I have owned, though it has been well over ten years since I have done a TF dissection. Thanks to all who provided manual links in this thread. I have never had a manual in all the years I have owned TFs. Thanks to all. Enjoy your TF600. It is a great addition to any stereo system.
 
KingBubba said:
I do not remember seeing any honeycomb like material inside any TF I have owned, though it has been well over ten years since I have done a TF dissection. Thanks to all who provided manual links in this thread. I have never had a manual in all the years I have owned TFs. Thanks to all. Enjoy your TF600. It is a great addition to any stereo system.
Click to expand...
It's more like baffles inside similar to a marble maze or pinball machine. See Heather's information.
 
BMWCCA said:
I don't think the mirror-image is a killer problem. The TF600 has such a good soundstage presentation that if everything is working right, it shouldn't be a huge problem. I do know that the "DCM" badge should go to the inside on matched pairs.

But first, go here and follow my repairs on my second pair of TF600s. Mine were a bit off, too, certainly compared to my perfect first pair. Turns out the seller had paid someone to replace the front tweeter which is placed over the upper of the two "woofers". I thought the problem was the tweeter but it turned out to be the actual woofer wasn't working but you could not really tell just by listening through a paper-towel tube because the tweeter masked the defective woofer. That link will also show you what I found as replacement tweeters for them. And, as previously mentioned, remember there are three tweeters in each cabinet. They usually get blown by playing them at loud volume levels using an underpowered amp which introduces distortion and fries the tweets.
Click to expand...
I’ve read lots of posts from AK’ers who acquired DCM Timeframes with already-blown tweeters…very common.
BUT…has anyone actually BLOWN their DCM tweeters while playing loud music???
Or…blown then while watching loud movies in Home Theater??? Just curious.
 
MBondo said:
I’ve read lots of posts from AK’ers who acquired DCM Timeframes with already-blown tweeters…very common.
BUT…has anyone actually BLOWN their DCM tweeters while playing loud music???
Or…blown then while watching loud movies in Home Theater??? Just curious.
Click to expand...
I have one pair of TF500 and two pairs of TF600. Only one speaker out of the 600s had already had a replacement tweeter installed when I got it. Not one similar to what DCM had used and actually the woofer mounted behind the blown tweeter was blown, too. So I had to replace one woofer and one tweeter, but have not blown any myself. In fact the last tweeter I blew was sometime in the late '60s when one of my JBL 075s went out and JBL repaired it under their "lifetime" warranty since my Dad was the original owner from 1957. The JBL technician included a note with the repaired "ring-radiator" tweeter advising me to check my amplifier for a "high-frequency oscillation" based on the tweeter damage. My amp at the time was my first (and only) receiver, a Kenwood I bought new. I made the decision to just trade the Kenwood in on a used Fisher SA1000 and Mac C-20 preamp. I still have the Mac! And I still have the ring radiator and in twenty other JBLs over the past 50-years, I've never blown any driver in any speaker. Though I did buy a pair of JBL 240ti from the original owner who also were using a receiver—and I discovered one of the expensive 044ti tweeters was blown when I got them home. All fixed now and my record of speaker survival is steel spotless!
 
Good story! Your experience w/ DCM TF blown tweeters is like most AK posters, including me. And not having blown any in your 3 pair of TF’s speaks to my point.
Let’s hear from some original owners who have blown the originals and find out why.
 
Old thread, I know, but was curious about those ferro-fluid tweeters in the TF600's.

I have held on to a pair, and let go of the TF350's, 400's, and 500's I also owned.

Anyone cleaned out that old ferro-fluid and replaced?
 
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