• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

DCM Time Window Overhaul

Sorry, question again. I did test frequency sweep and sadly can't hear anything beyond say 14k...any suggestions to get this fixed? I dont have any hearing issues, lol.Tweeters done? I have read that tw 1's are pretty laid back on the highs. The spec sheet calls out frequency range as 25 to 18k only. I love these speakers and would love to keep em by improving it. They are extremely musical. I have infinty reference six also, but these sound more musical...
 
You have TW not 1 or 1a as there is no 1 and the 1a has oak end caps, covered woofer (felt and screen) and vifa tweeters. You have the most advanced TW from about serial number a couple thousand to about 50000, so some of the last of that type built.

You can't really get into them to change the capacitor for the tweeter and they fact that they roll off is a fact of life with the Philips tweeter but I'm surprised it is at 14k. What gear were you using to run the test?

I guess for now just crank up the treble and if you have adjustable turnover frequency, use the highest one. I'd use the 10k turnover not the 2k turnover on my tone control unit, for example.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gsi
Blue Shadow said:
You have TW not 1 or 1a as there is no 1 and the 1a has oak end caps, covered woofer (felt and screen) and vifa tweeters. You have the most advanced TW from about serial number a couple thousand to about 50000, so some of the last of that type built.

You can't really get into them to change the capacitor for the tweeter and they fact that they roll off is a fact of life with the Philips tweeter but I'm surprised it is at 14k. What gear were you using to run the test?

I guess for now just crank up the treble and if you have adjustable turnover frequency, use the highest one. I'd use the 10k turnover not the 2k turnover on my tone control unit, for example.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Okay, while i was waiting for a response here, i did the following. Before that, my electronics is mono block amps from odeyssey and ps audio direct stream dac. I ran this from qobuz stereo test playlist.

Firstly frequency drop off is 16k not 14k. My bad. I ran test with tw and infinity reference six. Both rolled off when i played 16k file. No sound output. While infinity played 40 hz better than tws, this i expected.

Another thing is that My amps are atmost 50 percent burned in. Can that be a reason?
 
Should have full frequency response from a amp even when new. Since you own em, might as well learn to spell odyssey, I had to, a friend has a pair of Khartagos hot rodded in his system. They have been here driving my TWs.

Here is the spec sheet for the tweeter. How does that compare with your evaluation of the speaker system using those tweeters?
 

Attachments

  • Tweeter Sheet AD0140-T.jpg
    Tweeter Sheet AD0140-T.jpg
    138.5 KB · Views: 29
Blue Shadow said:
Should have full frequency response from a amp even when new. Since you own em, might as well learn to spell odyssey, I had to, a friend has a pair of Khartagos hot rodded in his system. They have been here driving my TWs.

Here is the spec sheet for the tweeter. How does that compare with your evaluation of the speaker system using those tweeters?
Click to expand...
Mine are khartago monoblocks from odyssey! Looking at the spec sheet it certainly seems to NOT comply. 15kish freq it starts to taper off and like i mentioned before at 16k i do not hear any test tone. Thank you for your responses.
 
Blue Shadow said:
You have TW not 1 or 1a as there is no 1 and the 1a has oak end caps, covered woofer (felt and screen) and vifa tweeters. You have the most advanced TW from about serial number a couple thousand to about 50000, so some of the last of that type built.

You can't really get into them to change the capacitor for the tweeter and they fact that they roll off is a fact of life with the Philips tweeter but I'm surprised it is at 14k.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are right. The originals were not designated at 1's. But since DCM then designated the next version as 1A, many times the originals are called 1's as a simple means of segregating the two versions.

I can't however agree that "You can't really get into them to change the capacitor...". I have opened these up and so have many others, and there are at least a few threads on here about how to do so. Granted, it's not an easy task but it's far from impossible. Once open you get the added bonus of reinforcing the glued attachments on the crossover. I have seen where the glue no longer holds and inductors, for instance, separate from the board and swing in space.
 
Moon_Man said:
I can't however agree
Click to expand...

You are right it is easy. half hour working that crap they used to hold the woofer in or beating the **** out of the end panel to get it to come off and the recap is easy. can't really to me means a major pain in the ass but you read it as impossible. NBD, we agree it is a major pita and one needs to go in knowing it will be a battle.

I had an inductor core fall out. Pulled the tweeter and glued it back in. That two sentence statement took 4 hours.
 
Blue Shadow, sounds like we've had similar experiences. I use a thin bladed saw, like a one-ended hacksaw blade, to cut through the glue (not the dowels) on the cap and then it was much easier to remove. Then I used a multi-tool to cut the staples and pull out the inner cap, but the same hacksaw blade will do nicely . Once you get that out the crossover is your oyster. It actually goes pretty fast.

Construction adhesive and small screws around the rim under the sock to hold the inner cap and you're basically done.

And the secret to removing the woofer (I had to replace one) from the "black death" is heat. It softens quickly. And if you're lucky reheat to reinstall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gsi
Moon_Man said:
Blue Shadow, sounds like we've had similar experiences. I use a thin bladed saw, like a one-ended hacksaw blade, to cut through the glue (not the dowels) on the cap and then it was much easier to remove. Then I used a multi-tool to cut the staples and pull out the inner cap, but the same hacksaw blade will do nicely . Once you get that out the crossover is your oyster. It actually goes pretty fast.

Construction adhesive and small screws around the rim under the sock to hold the inner cap and you're basically done.

And the secret to removing the woofer (I had to replace one) from the "black death" is heat. It softens quickly. And if you're lucky reheat to reinstall.
Click to expand...
This helps ! Have you set the TWs on floor or a stand. Audio critic, says a 9 inch pedestal (sold by dcm) certainly made them sound better.
 
Hope it's okay to resurrect this thread yet again. I'm starting to restore a pair of version 1 Time Windows. The cavity of my speakers is filled with what looks like the polyester sheet batting they use in quilt making. Folded/rolled, it fills the entire cavity. Is this the original damping material? (The speakers need new drivers, but there's no indication that the end caps have been removed.)
 
The first time window didn't really have removable anything so if you have the glue holding the caps and the drivers in place, the batting is original I know it is original in the TW I opened to refit a core for a coil and it was used in the TF-400 I have open in the basement.

What no pictures? We like pictures.
 
Speaking of... does anyone have the specs on the ubiquitous DCM 6.5" mid-woofer? I could use them. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom