Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

[matteos]

Looks good with the re-veneer!! It looks to me by the shape of everything (including the extra little cut out on the top left) and the position of the three mounting holes that the 75 or 80 would most likely fit. I can’t say for absolute certain, but it looks the same to me.

Here’s a DK 2000 (and sorry the pic is upside down) which mine fits into as well as the DK300, but they both look very much the same. Your cut out on the top left looks a little bigger than both of mine, but I can’t think that would be an issue since it attaches at three slightly raised points and yes it sits on the plinth but a little extra cut out wouldn’t be an issue.

If you want I can measure the size of this hole on my plinth and you can see if it matches up.

 

[richardloh]

Good question! I spent a lot of time comparing stuff with these turntables and the plinths/feet etc.

So I had redone the platter on the 75 with window sealer foam and I redid the platter on the 80 with sorbothane. And the 80 sounded better, I took apart the 75 platter and found the foam I had used was crap and it had flattened and was useless. I replaced this with “audio” foam from Amazon… Now the 75 sounds much better, even better than the 80. So I took the Sorbothane out of the 80 plinth and redid it with the same foam, now it sounds better and pretty much the same really as the 75. With same plinth, arm etc the sound is not much different. The 80 is a little more satisfying though because it has power like my Lenco, hard to slow down the platter holding a cleaning brush very firmly on a spinning record, and that is quite nice!

So, for me sorbothane is out. It sounds great in a lot of ways, super quiet, black background but it robs something from the presentation I think, and after a while I lose interest in the music.

As for plinths. The DK-300 is better than the earlier plain wood ones like the DK-2000. Just a blacker background. I’m now in the hunt for a DK-2300 which will be end game plinth for this (maybe reveneer).

For plinth feet I swapped a lot of stuff in that I have (I used a thread adaptor to convert the size differences in the mounting bolts). I tried out the ones in the picture, including these isoacoustic ones (meant for speakers but I have them lying around). Hands down the best feet are the ones on the right (black is plastidip because the feet are so shiny as to look bad). Anyway, I got these off eBay. They are maglev and have three ball bearings in a cup at the top. I do recommend these. My kids jump really hard up and down next to this turntable and nothing, they really isolate it, better than the isoacoustic (although to be fair, these ones are designed for more weight.. and speakers).

So this is what I’ve finally landed on. The 75 is absolutely great and if you have one there’s no real need to upgrade to the 80. In fact if you have a US DP-75, it’s prob better to keep it than have the hassle of the transformer.

Once I find a 2300 plinth, the 80 is going on that and I suppose I’ll keep the 75 as a backup, or maybe sell.

Also the Denon 401 arm is a really good arm, and fits very well on these.

.View attachment 3196118

Hi Matteos, Many thanks for the quick response and sharing of some great findings as well as opinion of often asked dp-75 vs dp-80 that further reinforce the experience of quite a few owners that indeed insignificant SQ difference if the same to the little details of foam used

Kindly further share links of the foam from Amazon as well as the maglev footers that I wish to emulate ... I am glad that you have settle especially on clear plan of dk2300 for dual arm/cart setup which indeed will be nice.

Btw, I am in Singapore with 230-240v and the local dp-75 not viewed yet should be the non Japanese multi voltage version shown below.

Thanks again and my journey continues .. unfortunately and expectedly in negative way.

Cheers.

 

[matteos]

No worries, sorry to hear yours is still giving you so much bother.

This was the foam I used, just cut into little pieces as needed.

And here’s a pic of the bottom of my plinth I took before when I was installing the feet, give you an idea on what I did. I cut the bolt a little on the pieces that were already attached to the plinth, then used a thread adaptor to make the bolt the right size. I can’t remember what the bolt sizes are off the top of my head, anyway it gave me a lot of options for feet.

These are the feet I bought (like this, not from this seller though). There’s ones with the ball bearings at the top and ones without. I compared both and the ones with the ball bearings are better.

Pardon Our Interruption...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071GD8TG9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[clintalloy]

Hi all. I have a DP-75 in a DK-110 that I currently use with a Fidelity Research tonearm. Sounds pretty awesome as-is. However, I have some other tonearms I might want to try. Does anyone know of either someone who makes armboards compatible with the DK plinths, or possibly have a file for 3D printing? Or a source for NOS boards.

Thanks for any ideas--

 

[richardloh]

Hi all. I have a DP-75 in a DK-110 that I currently use with a Fidelity Research tonearm. Sounds pretty awesome as-is. However, I have some other tonearms I might want to try. Does anyone know of either someone who makes armboards compatible with the DK plinths, or possibly have a file for 3D printing? Or a source for NOS boards.

Thanks for any ideas--

Expensive but available and drilled to german quality

Denon DK-300 DP-80 compatible tonearm board SME Sony Micro Seiki® Jelco Ortofon | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Denon DK-300 DP-80 compatible tonearm board SME Sony Micro Seiki® Jelco Ortofon at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[richardloh]

No worries, sorry to hear yours is still giving you so much bother.

Hi Matteos,

Some good news !

Did not replace the received transistors for KU 263 but finally installed the 2x semi-fixed resistors and 33 rpm issue improved tremendously at least via android rpm app shown below and no more clogging/grinding motor noises at 33.3 rpm !

Japanese owner(s) were spot on with shared findings of this semi fixed resistors being the key culprit especially when 45 rpm is ok but 33.3 rpm is not. I have no doubt now that 33.3 rpm is related to stability and circuitry of 45 rpm and 33.3 rpm derived from it as seen in various same situation .. guess those days of 45 rpm make sense but wished today it was reversed in designed circuitry for obvious reason of 33.3 rpm being key.

After manual adjustment (very sensitive ! ) without oscilloscope, 45 rpm remains stable at both normal and variable while 33 rpm is now a bit wobbly when locked while arguably acceptably stable with adjustment in variable mode. Do not have the capability or parts like the linked Japanese owner who changed out a host of transistors, diodes etc. and modded with bypass capacitors ... will not greedy on this 40 yrs old complicated electronics. Btw, dp-80 with variable mode is very much appreciated to get as close as possible to 33.3 rpm and 45 rpm which the dp-75 cannot do so easily.

Will proceed with refurbishment of dk300 plinth and hopefully start listening to some music with 4 tonearms bought for this dp-80.

Cheers.

 

[matteos]

Some good news !

Did not replace the received transistor but finally installed the 2x semi-fixed resistors and 33 rpm issue improved tremendously

After manual adjustment (very sensitive ! ) without oscilloscope 45 rpm remains stable at both normal and variable while 33 rpm is now a bit wobbly when locked while arguably acceptably stable with adjustment in variable mode. Do not have the capability or parts like the linked Japanese owner who changed out a host of transistors, diodes etc. and modded with bypass capacitors ... will not greedy on this 40 yrs old complicated electronics. Btw, dp-80 with variable mode is very much appreciated to get as close as possible to 33.3 rpm and 45 rpm which the dp-75 cannot do so easily.

Will proceed with refurbishment of dk300 plinth and hopefully start listening to some music with 4 tonearms bought for this dp-80.

Cheers.

View attachment 3244921View attachment 3244922

Glad you were able to fix the problem! Quite the journey to get here, but great that it’s spinning pretty well now. What tonearms do you have for this?

 

[richardloh]

Glad you were able to fix the problem! Quite the journey to get here, but great that it’s spinning pretty well now. What tonearms do you have for this?

Hey Matteos,

Indeed a long and worrysome journey at times since complication beyond me .. hence not greedy for more stability and likely live with current wow and flutter seen but may be tempted in the future and gotten some transistors just in case.

Bought the Denon DA-50, Denon DA5045, MicroSeiki 505X and one more that I need to open storage box to find out ... another possible long journey on reported good condition of these vintage tonearms of highly reliable Japanese sellers but will find out eventually

Cheers

 

[matteos]

Hi all. I have a DP-75 in a DK-110 that I currently use with a Fidelity Research tonearm. Sounds pretty awesome as-is. However, I have some other tonearms I might want to try. Does anyone know of either someone who makes armboards compatible with the DK plinths, or possibly have a file for 3D printing? Or a source for NOS boards.

Thanks for any ideas--

I’ve found there’s quite a few armboards for DK plinths on Jauce. I have a few coming over on the slowboat from Japan. There’s a lot of fees with that site, but there’s definitely some to be found there.

You can also make one reasonably easily. This is how I made one because I couldn’t find one to buy. I made it out of 2 maple boards and a piece of walnut. I just bought three pieces of wood that were pretty much cut to size from eBay and glued them together with clamps, cut a little off the length and then I measured the tonearm hole and drilled it in the right spot with a correct sized hole saw. These were the dimensions I bought off eBay. Cost about $30 for all of it.

1 sheet of walnut - 12” L x 6” W x 1/4” H
1 sheet of maple - 12” L x 6” W x 1/2” H
1 sheet of maple - 12” L x 5” W x 1/2” H

The last sheet of maple was 1 inch narrower than the other two. These arm boards have a slope on both sides so you can position them in the plinth underneath the mounted motor unit, so once I glued together I planed the wood to make a slope, the narrower piece gave me less to chop off.

Only other thing to remember is to drill a much bigger hole in the bottom sheet of wood before you glue them all together (1.5” - 2” inches wide ) where the tonearm hole will eventually be to make it easier to attach the tonearm. I’m pretty crap at woodwork (as you can probably tell), but this has definitely worked well enough for my needs. I used Tung oil as a finish because I’m fairly lazy and it’s really easy to use.

 

[matteos]

Hey Matteos,

Indeed a long and worrysome journey at times since complication beyond me .. hence not greedy for more stability and likely live with current wow and flutter seen but may be tempted in the future and gotten some transistors just in case.

Bought the Denon DA-50, Denon DA5045, MicroSeiki 505X and one more that I need to open storage box to find out ... another possible long journey on reported good condition of these vintage tonearms of highly reliable Japanese sellers but will find out eventually

Cheers

View attachment 3244947

I think the 80 is capable of better speeds, but you should probably just enjoy it for a little while before you start getting it perfect. I’m familiar with that Denon DA 50 and it’s pretty decent. I’d love to get a Micro Seiki arm at some point, I’ve never seen or heard their gear, but it’s always so well regarded and looks so good., but I must resist buying any more tonearms for a little while, I’ve got an SAEC arm on its way I’m quite exited for.

 

[richardloh]

I’ve found there’s quite a few armboards for DK plinths on Jauce. I have a few coming over on the slowboat from Japan. There’s a lot of fees with that site, but there’s definitely some to be found there.

You can also make one reasonably easily. This is how I made one because I couldn’t find one to buy. I made it out of 2 maple boards and a piece of walnut. I just bought three pieces of wood that were pretty much cut to size from eBay and glued them together with clamps, cut a little off the length and then I measured the tonearm hole and drilled it in the right spot with a correct sized hole saw. These were the dimensions I bought off eBay. Cost about $30 for all of it.

1 sheet of walnut - 12” L x 6” W x 1/4” H
1 sheet of maple - 12” L x 6” W x 1/2” H
1 sheet of maple - 12” L x 5” W x 1/2” H

The last sheet of maple was 1 inch narrower than the other two. These arm boards have a slope on both sides so you can position them in the plinth underneath the mounted motor unit, so once I glued together I planed the wood to make a slope, the narrower piece gave me less to chop off.

Only other thing to remember is to drill a much bigger hole in the bottom sheet of wood before you glue them all together (1.5” - 2” inches wide ) where the tonearm hole will eventually be to make it easier to attach the tonearm. I’m pretty crap at woodwork (as you can probably tell), but this has definitely worked well enough for my needs. I used Tung oil as a finish because I’m fairly lazy and it’s really easy to use.
View attachment 3244962
View attachment 3244963
View attachment 3244965

My dp-80 was bought with dk-300 plinth that had 4 armboards but drilled to dunno what tonearms. Will get them plugged when I refurbish the dk-300.

The dk-2300 for dual tonearms looks inviting for the 4 available tonearms but concern that its size is probably a continued struggle to keep or even to sell.

Btw, I recalled the 4th tonearm .. it is a silver sme iv from my storage that I had forgotten about.

Cheers.

 

[richardloh]

Hi Matteos,

Some good news !

Did not replace the received transistors for KU 263 but finally installed the 2x semi-fixed resistors and 33 rpm issue improved tremendously at least via android rpm app shown below and no more clogging/grinding motor noises at 33.3 rpm !

Japanese owner(s) were spot on with shared findings of this semi fixed resistors being the key culprit especially when 45 rpm is ok but 33.3 rpm is not. I have no doubt now that 33.3 rpm is related to stability and circuitry of 45 rpm and 33.3 rpm derived from it as seen in various same situation .. guess those days of 45 rpm make sense but wished today it was reversed in designed circuitry for obvious reason of 33.3 rpm being key.

After manual adjustment (very sensitive ! ) without oscilloscope, 45 rpm remains stable at both normal and variable while 33 rpm is now a bit wobbly when locked while arguably acceptably stable with adjustment in variable mode. Do not have the capability or parts like the linked Japanese owner who changed out a host of transistors, diodes etc. and modded with bypass capacitors ... will not greedy on this 40 yrs old complicated electronics. Btw, dp-80 with variable mode is very much appreciated to get as close as possible to 33.3 rpm and 45 rpm which the dp-75 cannot do so easily.

Will proceed with refurbishment of dk300 plinth and hopefully start listening to some music with 4 tonearms bought for this dp-80.

Cheers.

View attachment 3244921View attachment 3244922

Seems my other dp-47f also uses 45 rpm circuitry for 33.3 rpm except that there is no variable resistor "TP2" like VR1 and VR2 in dp-80 and using fixed value "metal film resistor" ... perhaps someone more learned can share why so as it seems logical then that more critical 33.3 rpm used today cannot be more accurate than 45 rpm since added circuitry aka error, fluctuation etc. ?

Cheers.

 

[richardloh]

I think the 80 is capable of better speeds, but you should probably just enjoy it for a little while before you start getting it perfect. I’m familiar with that Denon DA 50 and it’s pretty decent. I’d love to get a Micro Seiki arm at some point, I’ve never seen or heard their gear, but it’s always so well regarded and looks so good., but I must resist buying any more tonearms for a little while, I’ve got an SAEC arm on its way I’m quite exited for.

Hey Matteos,

Chanced upon a cosmetically almost perfect unit and with refurbishment done way beyond my capability .. purchased it right away and should arrive in about 2 weeks' time.

Due considerations given to how much I need to spend with external carpentry shop on the dk300 plinth, already "invested' $ on tonearms, 301 mk1 and mk2 cartridge purchased, current yen exchange rate as well as mentioned well beyond expertise needed, it was quite a straightforward decision considering very ok price paid.

Let's see how it measures on wow and flutters .. fingercrossed.

Cheers.

PS: Current unit to try change more transistors etc. to get it perform better, keep it for spares or sell it to next more technically capable buyer.

 

[richardloh]

Hi Matteos,

Some good news !

Did not replace the received transistors for KU 263 but finally installed the 2x semi-fixed resistors and 33 rpm issue improved tremendously at least via android rpm app shown below and no more clogging/grinding motor noises at 33.3 rpm !

Japanese owner(s) were spot on with shared findings of this semi fixed resistors being the key culprit especially when 45 rpm is ok but 33.3 rpm is not. I have no doubt now that 33.3 rpm is related to stability and circuitry of 45 rpm and 33.3 rpm derived from it as seen in various same situation .. guess those days of 45 rpm make sense but wished today it was reversed in designed circuitry for obvious reason of 33.3 rpm being key.

After manual adjustment (very sensitive ! ) without oscilloscope, 45 rpm remains stable at both normal and variable while 33 rpm is now a bit wobbly when locked while arguably acceptably stable with adjustment in variable mode. Do not have the capability or parts like the linked Japanese owner who changed out a host of transistors, diodes etc. and modded with bypass capacitors ... will not greedy on this 40 yrs old complicated electronics. Btw, dp-80 with variable mode is very much appreciated to get as close as possible to 33.3 rpm and 45 rpm which the dp-75 cannot do so easily.

Will proceed with refurbishment of dk300 plinth and hopefully start listening to some music with 4 tonearms bought for this dp-80.

Cheers.

View attachment 3244921View attachment 3244922

Swap of previously reversed transistors in KU-263 board, operated for a while and then corrected to the newly received ones shows no significiant difference in 33rpm stability i.e. reversed orientation probably did not damaged them. Had also deoxit the buttons, selectors and variable adjustor to no impact.

Only significant difference so far had been replacement of 10kohm VR1 and VR2 from basically unacceptable stability of 33.3 rpm with clogging motor noise to now under performing but arguably operable 0.3-0.4% wow and flutter at variable while 45 rpm is 0.03% at locked and even lower still at variable mode.

Ordered some PC613 and PC614 Sharp photosensors together with some transistors to next try again while waiting for the almost fully refurbished one to check out its performance.

Cheers.

PS: Unlike some Japanese owners finding corroded leads, I cannot see any in mine and certainly no components looks corroded, burnt, cracked or damaged.

 

[matteos]

Hey Matteos,

Chanced upon a cosmetically almost perfect unit and with refurbishment done way beyond my capability .. purchased it right away and should arrive in about 2 weeks' time.

Due considerations given to how much I need to spend with external carpentry shop on the dk300 plinth, already "invested' $ on tonearms, 301 mk1 and mk2 cartridge purchased, current yen exchange rate as well as mentioned well beyond expertise needed, it was quite a straightforward decision considering very ok price paid.

Let's see how it measures on wow and flutters .. fingercrossed.

Cheers.

PS: Current unit to try change more transistors etc. to get it perform better, keep it for spares or sell it to next more technically capable buyer.

View attachment 3245221
View attachment 3245224

The one I bought was just like this, all the parts that were replaced were ordered in a similar manner to your photograph (Might have even bought from the same tech). Mine has worked flawlessly and I received a bag of old parts just like the above along with my turntable.

What I haven’t done though is verify that any of the work was actually done, I’ve never opened up my 80 to take a look… because it’s just been working and honestly I probably wouldn’t be able to tell if a part had been replaced or not from looking at it anyway.

The one thing they didn’t do was to fix the foam in the platter. I replaced the old foam in there that was pretty bad.

 

[richardloh]

The one I bought was just like this, all the parts that were replaced were ordered in a similar manner to your photograph (Might have even bought from the same tech). Mine has worked flawlessly and I received a bag of old parts just like the above along with my turntable.

What I haven’t done though is verify that any of the work was actually done, I’ve never opened up my 80 to take a look… because it’s just been working and honestly I probably wouldn’t be able to tell if a part had been replaced or not from looking at it anyway.

The one thing they didn’t do was to fix the foam in the platter. I replaced the old foam in there that was pretty bad.

Hi Matteos,

Indeed seems to be the same .. nothing mentioned on the deteriorated foam within the dual platters and its replacement by seller.

Indeed also hope to have a same flawless dp-80 like you .. should have taken this route and save a bit albeit 1/2 an expert with its working now except for the motor ... will continue work on this errant one and hope to report back on further findings.

Cheers.

 

[Kit Carson]

I'v purchased a number of smaller items from Japan over the net and I was very satisfied with all the purchases with every item well packaged and sent in a timely manner. One thing to keep in mind is that the translation from Japanese to English and vice versa isn't exact. Sometimes words can have a different meaning than what we English speaking would assign to them. I'm sure there are some big electronic chain stores in Japan but most of us will be dealing with small independent audio shops. My experience is that the Japanese sellers are honest and value their good reputation. Best to be as knowledgeable as possible about the items you are purchasing so you know the questions to ask before purchasing. Not much to worry about re packaging, the Japanese take great pride in their ability to have your item arrive safely.

 

[matteos]

I hope the new 80 works out very well for you, I’ve been very pleased with mine. And you’ll have a spare as backup and plenty of time to get it working 100% when you have a chance.

The first item arrived from Jauce for me yesterday. They have some fees on their site, but can’t complain as there’s stuff there not available on eBay (like the armboards). The prices can sometimes be a little lower than eBay even after all the fees have been included.

The item was this SAEC tonearm, it came exactly as described, perfect condition and perfect shipping too, they made sure to include the little metal cage around the tonearm when shipping to keep the bearings safe. So a good experience with them or the sellers they are dealing with so far.

 

[richardloh]

I hope the new 80 works out very well for you, I’ve been very pleased with mine. And you’ll have a spare as backup and plenty of time to get it working 100% when you have a chance.

The first item arrived from Jauce for me yesterday. They have some fees on their site, but can’t complain as there’s stuff there not available on eBay (like the armboards). The prices can sometimes be a little lower than eBay even after all the fees have been included.

The item was this SAEC tonearm, it came exactly as described, perfect condition and perfect shipping too, they made sure to include the little metal cage around the tonearm when shipping to keep the bearings safe. So a good experience with them or the sellers they are dealing with so far.

View attachment 3247037

The best .. tonearm in box.

No longer available from sme but I had all my used sme v, iv, iv.v and 3012r housed in brand new sme boxes.

Cheers.

 

[richardloh]

I hope the new 80 works out very well for you, I’ve been very pleased with mine. And you’ll have a spare as backup and plenty of time to get it working 100% when you have a chance.

The first item arrived from Jauce for me yesterday. They have some fees on their site, but can’t complain as there’s stuff there not available on eBay (like the armboards). The prices can sometimes be a little lower than eBay even after all the fees have been included.

View attachment 3247037

Btw, I uses Sendico .. 500yen per order and 300/200 for protective packing/shrinkwrap and nvr had any issues in last 200+ orders.

They even helped me to contact cusco to have some claritynon all Japanese manual when I had trouble with installation.

Not restricted to major online platforms and any online shops can be transacted as long as they ship domestic Japan.

Cheers.