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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

Hi, Any reason why Denon put in efforts to have inserts made as shown from googled photos on the dk-300 plinth ? Just in case repeated installation damages it with designed/included screws and have it replaced with unavailable ones does not make much sense to me ?

More importantly, any thought on having it drilled through and use bolts and nuts to secure the dp-80 as in the case of a Garrad 301 instead for seemingly all critical mounting method of chassis to plinth as emphasized by most if not all turntable brands ? Tks

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Hi, Any reason why Denon put in efforts to have inserts made as shown from googled photos on the dk-300 plinth ? Just in case repeated installation damages it with designed/included screws and have it replaced with unavailable ones does not make much sense to me ?

More importantly, any thought on having it drilled through and use bolts and nuts to secure the dp-80 as in the case of a Garrad 301
Not sure what you might think the problem might be, but my experience with the DP-80 in the DK-300 plinth has been trouble-free. I've tried cutting Dynamat to put between the DP-80 chassis and the plinth and found no benefit in doing so. The mounting screws and 'spin-in' grommets work very well and have never come loose. Same with the four (4) mounting screws on the armboard. I did order washers from Herbie's and placed under the corners of the armboard, but I cannot say that there was any noticeable improvement in the SQ by doing so.
 
Not sure what you might think the problem might be, but my experience with the DP-80 in the DK-300 plinth has been trouble-free. I've tried cutting Dynamat to put between the DP-80 chassis and the plinth and found no benefit in doing so. The mounting screws and 'spin-in' grommets work very well and have never come loose. Same with the four (4) mounting screws on the armboard. I did order washers from Herbie's and placed under the corners of the armboard, but I cannot say that there was any noticeable improvement in the SQ by doing so.

Hi,

Thanks .. just wondering why the efforts and related advantages of having cutout inserts instead of leaving it solid that cannot be worse .. I think.

Self tapping screws are not the most reliable or secured nor same once used and removed as compared to bolts and nuts albiet measured to be 90-100mm that I would probably venture into. Not loose may be different to tightly bolted down .. dunno.

Planning the refurbishment of the dk-300 at some $ to include a few customisation and hence looking into the details and one owner here did mentioned having bolts and nuts instead which is no added cost to refurbishment.

Not sure if I will regret not getting dk-2300 dual arm plinth at quite affordable typical usd200 or less including shipment from Japan instead of current dk-300 since refurbishment $ to be spent but just thinking of even bigger estate, more complication and increased weight as well as already having 4 armboards finally put this thought to rest.

Cheers.
 
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No worries, sorry to hear yours is still giving you so much bother.

This was the foam I used, just cut into little pieces as needed.

And here’s a pic of the bottom of my plinth I took before when I was installing the feet, give you an idea on what I did. I cut the bolt a little on the pieces that were already attached to the plinth, then used a thread adaptor to make the bolt the right size. I can’t remember what the bolt sizes are off the top of my head, anyway it gave me a lot of options for feet.

These are the feet I bought (like this, not from this seller though). There’s ones with the ball bearings at the top and ones without. I compared both and the ones with the ball bearings are better.





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Hi Matteo,

Bought the neoprene foam and will do so likewise for the 2nd dp-80 .. will compare if discernible from the window foam used for platter from limping 1st unit to decide .. tks !

On the footers shared, I held back as my preference is always with adjustability which they are without.

Chanced on some adjustable 43-75mm footers (NOT gold version ! ) used in furnitures that are cheap at usd15 drilled to M6 since not audio related sale and getting thick sorbathane discs from ebay that are quite expensive to me to mirror the mnpctech adjustable footers that I bought for my dp-47f.

Mnpctech's dp80 footers are also without adjustability and customisation will likely cost even more than usd259 for height suitable ones for vpi which is too much for me.

Cheers.

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Self tapping screws are not the most reliable or secured nor same once used and removed as compared to bolts and nuts albiet measured to be 90-100mm that I would probably venture into. Not loose may be different to tightly bolted down .. dunno.
Hmmm.......... my DK-300 had steel 'spin-in' grommets in the plinth so uses machine-screws rather than self-tapping screws. Can tighten them down or remove as often as one wants without having to worry about them pulling out of the wood (I kept them lightly lubed with just a bit of light oil).
 
Hmmm.......... my DK-300 had steel 'spin-in' grommets in the plinth so uses machine-screws rather than self-tapping screws. Can tighten them down or remove as often as one wants without having to worry about them pulling out of the wood (I kept them lightly lubed with just a bit of light oil).

Tks ... was only happy for a while.

Immediately checked my dk-300 but it does not have metal inserts for bolts but this shared info also reminded me on such option to be considered.

Yours must be a later improved version from Denon or modified by previous owner with same concern on use of self tapping screws.

Photo of serial # of mine and metal inserts for dustcover hinges instead

Cheers.

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Hey Matteos,

Chanced upon a cosmetically almost perfect unit and with refurbishment done way beyond my capability .. purchased it right away and should arrive in about 2 weeks' time.

Due considerations given to how much I need to spend with external carpentry shop on the dk300 plinth, already "invested' $ on tonearms, 301 mk1 and mk2 cartridge purchased, current yen exchange rate as well as mentioned well beyond expertise needed, it was quite a straightforward decision considering very ok price paid.

Let's see how it measures on wow and flutters .. fingercrossed.

Cheers.

PS: Current unit to try change more transistors etc. to get it perform better, keep it for spares or sell it to next more technically capable buyer.

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Glad and relieved to share that 2nd dp-80 just received today from Japan which is reportedly "beautiful" and maintained indeed looks minty and runs well even in quartz lock with wows and flutters at 0.02% for both 45 rpm and more importantly 33.3 rpm.

Will proceed with the same ceramic coating and also neoprene foam replacement nicely shared by Matteos.

Cheers.

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Tks ... was only happy for a while.

Immediately checked my dk-300 but it does not have metal inserts for bolts but this shared info also reminded me on such option to be considered.

Yours must be a later improved version from Denon or modified by previous owner with same concern on use of self tapping screws.

Photo of serial # of mine and metal inserts for dustcover hinges instead

Cheers.

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Just tried M4 and M5 bolts onto mounting holes of top plate and larger M5 should work fine with some play.

Will have carpentry workshop drill M5 thru plinth and use 90-100mm bolts and nuts then.

Cheers.
 
Simple but fulfilling task of ceramic coating platter and buttons to alleviate usual oxidation seen as well as making buttons less susceptible to finger prints or easy wipe off. Glossy shine is also not unattractive to my eyes.

1st coat done and 2nd coat planned tomorrow after curing overnite in nice hot 28deg C and 80% humidity tropical weather.

Cheers

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Very nice. Hope it does not disturb the magnetic strip sprayed underneath. Good luck with all. A most worthy TT/plinth combination.
 
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Very nice. Hope it does not disturb the magnetic strip sprayed underneath. Good luck with all. A most worthy TT/plinth combination.
Tks tks .. tried and all good .. just a protective non metallic thin layer. Lasted well and not sure how it can be in such great condition after 40 years but tropical weather especially 80-100% humidity in Singapore is harsh. Cheers.
 
Pls find replaced components via hires photo on actual part #s from the 2nd perfect running dp-80 which may help owners to repair at worst case to replace all these typical and seeming key components for ku-263, ku-264 and ku-265 (less 1 missed mini orange colored diode) excluding all electronic capacitors.

This will be what I will be doing in my amateurish repair in view of high repair price quoted by Japanese shops and 2-way shipping costs with whatever components I can source that comes first for the 1st dp-80 with ok 45 rpm but 33.3 rpm with high wows and flutters. Cheers.

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Richard, where did you find a replacement for the SC3120A? China market offers it at a "mad price".....
For PC613-614 I am trying some alternative that are in production, and report back the results.
 
That's a 'swap everything just because' approach. ICs, save a few exceptions, rarely go bad without external influence. Highly unlikely (read as practically impossible) all the ICs in a single unit would go bad without something like an over-voltage event taking them out.
 
Richard, where did you find a replacement for the SC3120A? China market offers it at a "mad price".....
For PC613-614 I am trying some alternative that are in production, and report back the results.

Oops .. sorry for the confusion These are taken out from purchased refurbished dp-80 that seller shipped altogether.

Sharp pc613 and 614 are still available from online shop and Yahoo! Japan that I just purchased via sendico:



Yes, sc3120A at usd110 is quite exorbitant and hope not needed.

Cheers.

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That's a 'swap everything just because' approach. ICs, save a few exceptions, rarely go bad without external influence. Highly unlikely (read as practically impossible) all the ICs in a single unit would go bad without something like an over-voltage event taking them out.

Hi JP,

Indeed but I have no capability to diagnose this unstable 33.3 rpm issue and having new components of whatever I can l find cannot be a bad thing .. if it even fix the issue at all

Cheers.
 
A clean, fresh lube (including the oil sponge) and recap got my DP-80 "locked in" at +/- 0.2%.

0.02% wow and flutters by android rpm app that my 2nd refurbished dp-80 including new bearing change demonstrates or 0.2% rpm error which is 4x better ? Cheers.

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Hi JP,

Indeed but I have no capability to diagnose this unstable 33.3 rpm issue and having new components of whatever I can l find cannot be a bad thing .. if it even fix the issue at all

Cheers.

I understand, though I'd still take a disciplined approach even in that case. Regardless, my comment was intended that people don't assume that swapping every bit of silicon is needed to refurb one of these, or that it's the optimal approach.
 
I understand, though I'd still take a disciplined approach even in that case. Regardless, my comment was intended that people don't assume that swapping every bit of silicon is needed to refurb one of these, or that it's the optimal approach.

Thanks again .. certainly not all which I will not dare to do so since not achievable by me but only the above shared "typical" components that I see repeatedly of refurbished units by Japanese sellers that I trust especially with the well running 2nd dp-80 received.

I have no clue what disciplined approach it should be and will swap as many as available for purchase based loosely on the nice share by rlooker at diyaudio who solved his speed issue.

Cheers.

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