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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

matteos said:
Interesting concept, let me know how they turn out, are you going to further damp the lead with silicon or sand or something like that?

My DK2300 has finally arrived, I really want to install it, but it’s too big for my shelf, very heavy too.
Click to expand...

Thanks .. yes, I do have fine lead "sand" and need to try out on pending plinth to see how the stock bolt length affects adjustability especially with also pending rubberised rings of various thickness.

Dk-2300 is nice if rack estate and preferred dual inputs phono amp is available .. I chickened out and did not proceed to keep things simple especially since with 4 available armboards for the dk-300 and limited carts of dl301 mk1, dl301 mk2 and dl-80 while having the auorasound vida dual inputs phono amp.

PS: Just found and ordered the silver and japanese 100v only triode tr-eq1 phono amp with versatile and nice sounding dact ct100 module to add to my 20 yrs old diy dact ct100 in lead enclosure with regulated class A psu in conrad johnson enclosure previously used with matched premier 14 preamp .. will need to swap out 100v xformers for 230/240v ones.
 
claneg said:
When you get the boards, please tell us the substituted transitors type. It would be useful for all DP80/75 owners.
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Received the boards together with whatever transistor types I can find and indeed looks clean without any blackening of leads.

From a quick look, the transistors are basically the same but I do suspect blackening leads are due to processing as I remember not only one transistor type was affected .. even resistors, diode etc. Solder type, cleaning, temp, conformance coating type seen applied etc. seems more plausible improvement made.

Should you have any specific board and transistor(s) used that you wish to see, please let me know and I will post it. Meanwhile, the 3 boards at usd50 shown below is hopefully the affordable fix I need for the 1st errant dp-80 to save it from being an expensive door stop :(

Cheers.

PS: waiting for the recap and transistors kit from ebay before board swap with dp-80 #1 but will only recap to avoid more uncertainties. Plan is to start with KU-264 and see if I can adjust VR1 and VR2 to bliss .. fingercrossed.

20240811_161827.jpg
 
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claneg said:
Richard, where did you find a replacement for the SC3120A? China market offers it at a "mad price".....
For PC613-614 I am trying some alternative that are in production, and report back the results.
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Just thinking out loud .. should you wish for SC3120A and in fact all the removed components e.g. pc613/614 etc. from my refurbished dp-80#2 that may still be ok to try (if you can test them it will be great), pls let me know via PM with your shipping details including contact needed by post office.

It will cost you usd10 postage via paypal and I will absorb petrol and parking fee as well as an hour of my life .. lol !

Cheers.
 
richardloh said:
Received the boards together with whatever transistor types I can find and indeed looks clean without any blackening of leads.

From a quick look, the transistors are basically the same but I do suspect blackening leads are due to processing as I remember not only one transistor type was affected .. even resistors, diode etc. Solder type, cleaning, temp, conformance coating type seen applied etc. seems more plausible improvement made.

Should you have any specific board and transistor(s) used that you wish to see, please let me know and I will post it. Meanwhile, the 3 boards at usd50 shown below is hopefully the affordable fix I need for the 1st errant dp-80 to save it from being an expensive door stop :(

Cheers.

PS: waiting for the recap and transistors kit from ebay before board swap with dp-80 #1 but will only recap to avoid more uncertainties. Plan is to start with KU-264 and see if I can adjust VR1 and VR2 to bliss .. fingercrossed.
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THX Richard. Watchout that on K263 board the RED and BLACK cables in the center of the PCB are inverted.
 
claneg said:
THX Richard. Watchout that on K263 board the RED and BLACK cables in the center of the PCB are inverted.
Click to expand...

Hi Claudio,

Sharp eyes and tks !

Not sure if does not matter e.g. AC or wrongly marked on pcb or misleading as seen but check on several sites below shows the same:


blog.goo.ne.jp

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ã²ãããªãã¨ã§DENONã®DP-80å®ååã¨ãã£ãããããã¸ã£ã³ã¯ä¾¡æ ¼ã§æã«å¥ãããæ¥é ãããä¸è©±ã«ãªã£ã¦ãããªã¼ãã£ãªåºã®åºä¸»ã¨åºå¡ããã«æè¬ã§ãããä¸å¿ãåä½ã«ã¯åé¡ç¡ããããªã«ã30å¹´è¿ãåã®æ©ç¨®ãçå¼¾ããã¡ããã¡ãã«é ãã¦ããã®ã¯æ³å®æ¸ã¿ãããããã¨æã¡å¸°ã£ã¦ãWE-308Nãåãã¤ããã®ç´...
blog.goo.ne.jp

But will also check my dp-80#1 when swapping but should be fine since these boards are from working Denon and looks original from trustworthy Japanese seller.

Seems also that there are different vintages ones with both white cables and not red/black except one is marked with black lines.

Cheers.

PS: Removed SC3210A and PC613/614 from refurbished dp-80#2 will be posted to you in about 3 hours' time

Screenshot_20240813-055701_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20240813-055825_Chrome.jpg
 
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Maybe no diode and hence the case without polarity since for maybe also such similar relay which I was not even aware being in connection ? Tks tks !

Cheers.

Screenshot_20240813-184224_Chrome.jpg
 
Actually there is a diode to protect the relay, D1 in K265 board. Of course you should check the polarity in the connector pins: anyway if the relay clicks, it should be OK.
 
Just picked the dk300 from carpentry shop that restores solid teak wood furniture with the following done up:

1. M5 bolt thru mounting holes
2. Undercut into plinth to house 30VA step down transformer
3. Remove damaged black vanity veener and refurbishes in black

One more small step on getting my 1st dp-80 set and will try out fitting to ensure all in order before bring the modded dk-300 to car paint spray shop.

Cheers.

20240813_131605.jpg

20240813_131700.jpg

20240813_132108.jpg
 
Hi all, I just found a DK-2000 "universal record player case" for sale. It is in very good condition, missing only the arm boards, which I think I wouldn't have much problem making myself.

I'm just seeking some opinions on the plinth, really. I'll probably grab it tomorrow. The space for two arms is an attraction, I'll admit. God knows I don't need yet another turntable, but some recent discussion of Denon DP-75 (or was it 80?) vs. Technics SP10 got me thinking. It seems I could pick up the turntable quite affordably. I don't intend to get hardcore about plinth building, so I thought this might do the job.
 
Measure the voltage on it when stopped and running. Not uncommon to see boards marked incorrectly. I’ve also seen errors where the cap should’ve been BP - polarity reversed between stop and start states.
 
JP said:
Measure the voltage on it when stopped and running. Not uncommon to see boards marked incorrectly. I’ve also seen errors where the cap should’ve been BP - polarity reversed between stop and start states.
Click to expand...

Actually the board is marked correctly, as per schematics.

Can you tell us which capacitors of which board should be BP instead of the used polar ones?
THX.
 
It was a general comment not specific to this model. Essentially, if in doubt, check it, and check it in all states.
 
richardloh said:
Another one here ?

View attachment 3277398
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Oops ... just checked received "working" pcba and :

- nothing wrong here .. negative of capacitor as per board printing but seems jap owner's has reversed capacitor unlike mine (errant dp80#1 had been recapped and I need to check)
- leads are certainly NOT in great shape and glad to have purchased recap kit from ebay to be delivered tmrw to bring out Hakko soldering iron.

With apology and cheers.

Screenshot_20240819-224226_Gallery.jpg
 
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