Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

[richardloh]

Actually there is a diode to protect the relay, D1 in K265 board. Of course you should check the polarity in the connector pins: anyway if the relay clicks, it should be OK.

Hi Claudio, I read again .. think diode here refers to internal one and not on the pcba. I check the svc manual and cannot determine its industrial part no. for further checking and will have to use-as-is as I have no confidence to measure when powered and err on the fact that it is stock and reportedly working. Cheers.

Relay board and wire connector CN1 w.r.t. colored wires as shown and any further advice by anyone will be appreciated. Seems black wire from "red" marking on pcb follows shown polarity of D1 cathode needed i.e. red wire or not marked red on pcb or prsumably negative to DI anode if indeed external D1 is the one and not internally in relay and all ok then ?

Cheers.

 

[claneg]

Richard, internal or external diode doesn't change the situation: DP-80 relay coil is polarized.
Now, checking your picture (K265), the BLACK wire goes to the diode CATHODE, but (correct me if I'm wrong) since in the other pic you showed us the BLACK wire is connected to the RED pin of K263, which is +5V, you are fine.

About the relay: it's a NAIS HA-1. It's no more in production.
I made a substitute plug'n'play alternative, which I use in mine DP80: relay substitute for DP80-75

 

[richardloh]

Richard, internal or external diode doesn't change the situation: DP-80 relay coil is polarized.
Now, checking your picture (K265), the BLACK wire goes to the diode CATHODE, but (correct me if I'm wrong) since in the other pic you showed us the BLACK wire is connected to the RED pin of K263, which is +5V, you are fine.

Hi Claudio,

Noted and affirmative.

Thanks for the patience and it is messy but good news then.

Cheers.

 

[richardloh]

Two more plinths at 27kg packed to add to first modded one pending respray with automotive paint for flexibility of installation from Japan arrived via fedex together with a separately bidded spare armboard for the dk-200 plinth which surprising came with stock spring loaded adjustable height footers that I was not aware of unlike the unsprung dk-300's.

This 2nd dk-300 is in much better condition .. all shiny and looking waxed .. than the 1st dk-300

No planned mod to dk-200 wrapped in fake black leather with silver aluminium trimming since I do like its look to match any modern setup .. except same undercut into plinth for step-down xformer.

Cheers.

 

[richardloh]

Final touch to sgd70 dk-200 plinth after 3M maroon scotchbrite on hinges and new screws/bolts .. 1st time with "leather" wrapped plinth which is nicely hardy with little maintenance/care needed and really like its side aluminium trims for a more modern appearance.

Next on armboards to be refurbished with plugged wood and/or automotive paint and decide which arm and which dp-80 (fully refurbished/recap including motor or without motor refurbished) but need to recap spare pcba and fix speed issue with 1st dp-80 next as priority .. to be updated.

Cheers.

 

[richardloh]

Hmmh, working to recap the control board of pcba removed from reportedly working dp-80 and found that C9 has -ve marking on pcb blanked black with actual cap indeed +ve of cap soldered there i.e. -ve nearest to big IC.

On checking the problematic 1st unit, there is no such blank off and repair technician had following pcb marking and have the cap reversed instead i.e. +ve nearest to big IC .. can this be the reason for my issue on unstable 33rpm while 45rpm is ok ?

Further check on recap done by Japanese repair shop indicated tbat indeed they followed blank off C9 orientation i.e. -ve nearest to big IC albeit not able to see if marking is also blanked off and I had followed suit but please advise if otherwise and yes, will try to rework 1st unit to check if issue is resolved before even swapping this control board.

Messy yet again and do also advised if I had erred

 

[richardloh]

Just googled and found hires photo of another japanese repair with also blank off -ve pcb marking and have -ve of cap nearest to big IC that confirmed my repair tech had followed non blanked off pcb marking of my 1st problematic dp-80.

Regardless root cause of my issue, 1st thing to do is to correct c9 cap orientation (and blank out pcb -ve marking) and fingercrossed that nothing had been permanently damaged ... and hope indeed 33rpm stability issue can be resolved.

https://sp-10.jp/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/DSC_3523.jpg

 

[richardloh]

Hmmmh .. just googled and found another Japanese repair sharing his successful repair but with control board without blank off of -ve sign on pcb and having cap as such

DENON DP-80 5台目のメンテナンス その弐 | カピバラの部屋

ジャンクオーディオ蒐集家の呟きブログ、そろそろ保管場所も限界かな〜(・∀・)

capybararooms.blog.fc2.com

Any thought please if it is possible to have 2 different versions of such c9 orientation and marked or blanked off with actual capacitors suit .. with both working fine ?

 

[richardloh]

Hmmh x2 .. guess c9 orientation is not important ?

Just read another link on successful repair but now with blank off -ve pcb marking but Japanese technician did not care and still have -ve of cap in furthest distance from big IC

denon dp-80

 

[claneg]

Richard, to bypass the mistery I used a film capacitor in C9. No more +/- right or wrong!

 

[richardloh]

Richard, to bypass the mistery I used a film capacitor in C9. No more +/- right or wrong!

Hey Claudio, Tks .. make sense and need to order them then but kinda frustrating to noob like me. Btw, did the recycled 3120A "big" IC solved your issue ? Cheers.

 

[claneg]

Hey Claudio, Tks .. make sense and need to order them then but kinda frustrating to noob like me. Btw, did the recycled 3120A "big" IC solved your issue ? Cheers.

I should test it tomorrow. I'll tell you then.

 

[richardloh]

I should test it tomorrow. I'll tell you then.

Hi Claudio, Just in case it does not work, chanced upon this Japanese owner who reported LR3736 being a substitute but cannot find any more info about it.

Btw, swap of separately bought 3 pcba one by one that I recapped myself did not yield positive results on the 33 rpm stability issues with all sort of strange phenomenon and putting back the original restored it to same working condition albeit with same 33 rpm being unstable at lock mode while variable is arguably ok ... will check these recapped capacitors to ensure right orientation before trying pcba swap again

Cheers.

DP-80è³¼å¥ï¼ã¡ã³ããã³ã¹ - é³æ¥½ã¨ãªã¼ãã£ãªã®åå¿é²ãç¨ã«ã¯ã¢ããã¥ã¢ç¡ç·

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blog.goo.ne.jp

 

[claneg]

I should test it tomorrow. I'll tell you then.

No luck with me, Richard: the recycled 3120A is unstable.......
About the subs LR3736, I knew it but is even more rare to find. I just saw it once inside a DP80.

 

[richardloh]

Oops .. sorry to hear

 

[richardloh]

No luck with me, Richard: the recycled 3120A is unstable.......
About the subs LR3736, I knew it but is even more rare to find. I just saw it once inside a DP80.

Hi Claudio,

Glad to report back that 33 rpm locks well FINALLY with no more clogging noise even in the dead of the night with ears to the dp-80 .. hurray !

A short in the dark for your case on seemingly issue on KU-264 Quartz Servo unit with SC3120A IC unit but this Japanese shop repaired numerous dp-80 and shared his magic bullet of 2200pf at TR1 of KU-263 Servo Control unit that solved some but not all stability issue:

DP-80 6台目 | カピバラの部屋

ジャンクオーディオ蒐集家の呟きブログ、そろそろ保管場所も限界かな〜(・∀・)

capybararooms.blog.fc2.com

I am now back to prep of plinth for not 1 but 2 dp-80.

Cheers.

PS: My first then problematic but resolved dp-80 already had this 2200pf cap on TR1 of KU-263 but not the most recent 3x loose pcba purchased .. had not opened up the fully refurbished and working fine 2nd complete dp80 and no plan to do so

 

[claneg]

Hi Claudio,

Glad to report back that 33 rpm locks well FINALLY with no more clogging noise even in the dead of the night with ears to the dp-80 .. hurray !

A short in the dark for your case on seemingly issue on KU-264 Quartz Servo unit with SC3120A IC unit but this Japanese shop repaired numerous dp-80 and shared his magic bullet of 2200pf at TR1 of KU-263 Servo Control unit that solved some but not all stability issue:

DP-80 6台目 | カピバラの部屋

ジャンクオーディオ蒐集家の呟きブログ、そろそろ保管場所も限界かな〜(・∀・)

capybararooms.blog.fc2.com

I am now back to prep of plinth for not 1 but 2 dp-80.

Cheers.

PS: My first then problematic but resolved dp-80 already had this 2200pf cap on TR1 of KU-263 but not the most recent 3x loose pcba purchased .. had not opened up the fully refurbished and working fine 2nd complete dp80 and no plan to do so

Very interesting "magic bullet", Richard. Thx for sharing. Will try it.

In the end, what changes did you made to make your unit no clogging? The PCB swapping didn't workout, you said yesterday.

 

[richardloh]

Very interesting "magic bullet", Richard. Thx for sharing. Will try it.

In the end, what changes did you made to make your unit no clogging? The PCB swapping didn't workout, you said yesterday.

Hi Claudio, I frankly do not know ... tried loose ku-264 and removed when din work any better in VR1 and VR adjustment before moving on for the same for the loose ku-263.

However I did not remove the loose ku-263 before swapping the ku-265 due to needed resoldering of the infamous red/back wire and bingo .. I did not even adjust VR1and VR2 and 33rpm stayed locked.

So .. original ku-264 already with new VR1 and VR2 seems to be fine but not sure if the original ku-263 or ku-265 is the culprit or it is a margin issue and I did not tried to mess around and kept the loose ku-263 and ku-265 in all gladness.

One thing I did noticed is that original and loose one are not 100% same .. while the pcba printing is the same, not all components are populated or same values I think but I need to look again later on the removed ku-263 and ku-265 to show you.

Cheers.

 

[claneg]

In one on those jap sites you showed us there was a speed problem caused by a bad PC613 on K265: did you check/changed it?

Looking at the schematics, there are some resistors value that are in double version, they are noted in parenthesis. On notes 6 it says they were used till production model 600. I have no idea how to know the model by the S/N.........if somebody has news about it, please enlight us!

 

[richardloh]

In one on those jap sites you showed us there was a speed problem caused by a bad PC613 on K265: did you check/changed it?

Looking at the schematics, there are some resistors value that are in double version, they are noted in parenthesis. On notes 6 it says they were used till production model 600. I have no idea how to know the model by the S/N.........if somebody has news about it, please enlight us!

Hi Claudio,

No, I did not do any change to PC613 .. only thing I did was the recap of all the e capacitors of these "loose" pcba with the ebay kit while getting 4.7uf 400v vs stock 250v in addition for the known under rated strobe related one that many found to have leaked and then started in the abovementioned pbca swap.

Somehow missed the mentioned double value resistors note in the schematic but the following photos shows that capacitors are populated differently and in different values/size w.r.t. c25 or c30 in the ku-263 units while I have no clue if electrically the same i.e. different versions with varied capacitors to "match" board variations in addition to your finding of double value resistors.

I did tried briefing to look at version # on the pbca but missed them .. the jap seller of theses loose pbca claimed that they were newer version but perhaps for dp-80 where they were from and not version # on pbca themselves.

Cheers.

PS: Both original and "loose" infamous red/black wires are similarly swapped on ku-263