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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

After several on/off, 33rpm to/fro 45rpm as well as variable to/fro normal, all seem fine still after 24 hrs powered up and running nonstop.

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Definetly the PCB# is the same, in all production years, but they did variations. The loose PCB is for sure the latest. In my older PCB I have the 3 caps mounted, with C30 named C26. The SM available online should cover the first and middle production years: in the newest PCB D1-2-3-4, on K263, cancelled D2-4, but are still present in the schematics. And so other components......Ah, in the older PCB, a capacitor of 2200pF is mounted on TR1 and TR2, solder side of K264 board.
 
claneg said:
Definetly the PCB# is the same, in all production years, but they did variations. The loose PCB is for sure the latest. In my older PCB I have the 3 caps mounted, with C30 named C26. The SM available online should cover the first and middle production years: in the newest PCB D1-2-3-4, on K263, cancelled D2-4, but are still present in the schematics. And so other components......Ah, in the older PCB, a capacitor of 2200pF is mounted on TR1 and TR2, solder side of K264 board.
Click to expand...

Hi Claudio,

I have only 1x 2200pf on TR1 on original ku-263 (not ku-264) as shown in photo and also shown in most if not all the repaired board of the mentioned japanese blog i.e. nothing on TR2.

Btw, what is your trouble and how you had arrived on SC3120A of KU-264 being one likely cause ?

Cheers

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richardloh said:
Hi Claudio,

No, I did not do any change to PC613 .. only thing I did was the recap of all the e capacitors of these "loose" pcba with the ebay kit while getting 4.7uf 400v vs stock 250v in addition for the known under rated strobe related one that many found to have leaked and then started in the abovementioned pbca swap.

Somehow missed the mentioned double value resistors note in the schematic but the following photos shows that capacitors are populated differently and in different values/size w.r.t. c25 or c30 in the ku-263 units while I have no clue if electrically the same i.e. different versions with varied capacitors to "match" board variations in addition to your finding of double value resistors.

I did tried briefing to look at version # on the pbca but missed them .. the jap seller of theses loose pbca claimed that they were newer version but perhaps for dp-80 where they were from and not version # on pbca themselves.

Cheers.

PS: Both original and "loose" infamous red/black wires are similarly swapped on ku-263

View attachment 3291506View attachment 3291508
Click to expand...

Think I messed up ku-263 and ku-264 and hopefully corrected all to avoid causing confusion .. with apology. Cheers.

Screenshot_20240907-102914_Chrome.jpg
 
richardloh said:
Hi Claudio,

I have only 1x 2200pf on TR1 on original ku-263 (not ku-264) as shown in photo and also shown in most if not all the repaired board of the mentioned japanese blog i.e. nothing on TR2.

Btw, what is your trouble and how you had arrived on SC3120A of KU-264 being one likely cause ?

Cheers
Click to expand...
This is mine, with 2 caps in the back:

KU263 BACK A.JPG
 
Finally found and ordered what I hope will be much preferred replacement of stock VR1 and VR2 that are bottom as well as top adjustable albeit not big branded else endless and non optimum trials with current top only adjustment copal recommended by Japanese owners since adjusting without recommended scope ... WH06-2C 10k ohm while 0.7mm width soldertails .. tba at worse case to file them down since also cheap to try. Hope this helps and cheers

Screenshot_20240909-081747.jpg
 
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Richard, VR1-2: pay attention on its substitution. If they are not stable, in time and with varing temperature, they will change resistance value causing a not optimal speed adjustment.
With them, R36-37 are also important: the choosing is for low PPM, 50 or less.
Since 33rpm adjustment is depending on 45rpm one, that is the signal passes through VR2-R37 before reaching VR1, I made on my DP80 an improvement, in my opinion, substituing VR2-R37 with a fixed low ppm resistor.
The same can be done with VR1-R36, but it's time consuming to find the optimal value.
To sum it up, good low ppm trimmer are the way to go. Forget about top and bottom adjustment.....the Jap showed the way to go!
 
claneg said:
Richard, VR1-2: pay attention on its substitution. If they are not stable, in time and with varing temperature, they will change resistance value causing a not optimal speed adjustment.
With them, R36-37 are also important: the choosing is for low PPM, 50 or less.
Since 33rpm adjustment is depending on 45rpm one, that is the signal passes through VR2-R37 before reaching VR1, I made on my DP80 an improvement, in my opinion, substituing VR2-R37 with a fixed low ppm resistor.
The same can be done with VR1-R36, but it's time consuming to find the optimal value.
To sum it up, good low ppm trimmer are the way to go. Forget about top and bottom adjustment.....the Jap showed the way to go!
Click to expand...

Hey Claudio, Many thanks for the alert .. yes, some japanese owner using nedic copal ct06 ones (potted) at impressive <=1-3% change that I am also using but having top adjustment is almost by luck and I doubt optimal achievable for me since already without oscilloscope.

Should you have any good recommendation for stable and high quality bottom adjustable ones, kindly share.

A bit more info on this wh06-2c below while needing google translation and indeed noting far inferior to copal one :(

Cheers.

PS: Measured VR1 and VR2 of the newest "loose" onboard and not very impressive 9.5k and 11.5kohm obtained despite potentiometer F5 deoxit them.

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CT-6 or RJ-6...good ones. Just mount them on the solder side of the PCB and you will be able to regulate them when using the DP80!

I never found a high quality bottom adjustable trimmer, sorry.
 
Decided if not now then when to spray paint same matching forester car's silver color .. most cost is for putty to smoothen and adhesion and back to typical black if silver color turns out unacceptable but hopefully less prone to scratches and dirt as well as something a bit more unique than typical .. fingercrossed.

Not same for sure in examples found but silver seems ok and allows darker shade of control panel of "flying saucer" to stands out which I prefers ... fingercrosses x2

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Hmmh .. not impressed albiet more modern to me than original brown wood vinyl and in fact outright boring, back to dust/scratch magnet glossy black then for the 2nd plinth before deciding on this one

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Guess there are reasons why tt plinth are primarily black or wooden

2nd one will be matt black for some variation but also with glossy black armboards

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I had planed to purchase a new plinth from that site in Hungary, but it appears right when I went to order the one I had saved on my eBay watch list they pulled the plinths and no longer have them to order. Now back to the drawing board.
 
Armboards of dk-200 plugged and ready for automotive paint before drilled for to-be-chosen tonearms while sme iv will be one of them to compensate a bit on the seemingly inferior plinth material and more importantly light weighted much smaller footprint compared to way bigger dk-300 armboards .. will be piano black for tonearms to shine a bit more. Cheers.

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