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DIY open baffles

Looks nice, but don't you think that the screw and washer would have at least some impact on the air core inductor? You could use a brass screw/washer.

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Yes, I thought of that. Used what I had at the time but it is subject to modification.
 
djnagle said:
Can you bi-amp them with the ss on the woof and EL34 on the CDs?
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I would have to reconfigure the current wiring but it would be doable as the Aretha MKII does have two outputs. Currently have a SS preamp feeding the SS power amp and a tube preamp feeding the tube power amp.
 
Cool! I have drivers for Open Baffle full range speakers. At this point I’m just going to use plywood sheets for quick design iterations to find the best sounding layout.
 
djnagle said:
Cool! I have drivers for Open Baffle full range speakers. At this point I’m just going to use plywood sheets for quick design iterations to find the best sounding layout.
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I wish you success. Hopefully the drivers you have will operate efficiently without an enclosure. I have read many instances where people have slapped drivers onto cutout pieces of plywood and have been disappointed with the sound. This is what I wanted to avoid and is why I was drawn to the La Dolce Audio design.
 
toddalin said:
Looks nice, but don't you think that the screw and washer would have at least some impact on the air core inductor? You could use a brass screw/washer.

25-crossover-1-jpg.3841227
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I wouldn't think so? The coil is insulated from that screw and is mounted on wood. Running a screw theough a Toroidal transformer can cause problems and even damage if the mounting screw isn't isolated from the metal chassis and or coil.
When using a cover especially. A plastic or rubber insert and washer to isolate the screw from the windings are used. Sometimes a plastic screw and nut is used as well.
 
Reminds me of those Wild Burro "Betsy's" I bought on a whim. Need to get around to making something like OP made here, which is GORGEOUS.

fantastic work, good sir.
 
TomD62 said:
The rough openings were routered with a chamfer bit to eliminate any 90 degree angles.
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nice work. I used 3/4 and 1/2 inch walnut plywood laminated together, which made the baffles very stiff. Used Lii Audio driver and SB Audience Bass driver. If I do something similar again, I might spring for an upgrade in driver quality, but I am quite happy with the way mine sound.

My 2nd pair of open baffles can be found here: https://audiokarma.org/forums/threads/new-open-baffle-build.1100100/#post-18151439
 
Lavane said:
I wouldn't think so? The coil is insulated from that screw and is mounted on wood. Running a screw theough a Toroidal transformer can cause problems and even damage if the mounting screw isn't isolated from the metal chassis and or coil.
When using a cover especially. A plastic or rubber insert and washer to isolate the screw from the windings are used. Sometimes a plastic screw and nut is used as well.
Click to expand...
Take an hollow core induction coil, put it on an induction meter. Pass a screwdriver through the center and watch the meter. :naughty:
 
I've seen various coils mounted that way with a bolt down the middle before to secure them though.
 
That XO is not right IMO, the L-pads DC resistance is across the system input,
it sees all of the bass power, the tweeter cap should go from system input to the L-pad.
This will raise the system input impedance in the bass.
 
TomD62 said:
Bass reflex cone installed before the 18 inch driver is mounted.
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Could you say a bit more about the "cone"? Just curious about it. Did you buy a kit from La Dolce with the cone included? I suppose it puts some acoustic load on the woofer. I heard these speaker at the last Pacific Audiofest in Seattle. I really liked them. The kit price seems very reasonable too.
 
Pete B said:
That XO is not right IMO, the L-pads DC resistance is across the system input,
it sees all of the bass power, the tweeter cap should go from system input to the L-pad.
This will raise the system input impedance in the bass.
Click to expand...
The manufacturer's drawing is attached.

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