Haha! Good one!Sounds like it's coming through tiny computer speakers!
Haha! Good one!Sounds like it's coming through tiny computer speakers!
My AR 93s don't need a sub for my big stereo but I have a sub in my living room system for my AR 18b 6.5 woofer not the 8in as in the 18sif you have small speakers ( anything under 12" IMO ) most likely you need a sub. My speakers are large, 15" - haven't used my sub for a long time. Everyone is different, and of course the room will dictate what works best.
This is correct. In real life the effective diameter of a 12" or 6" (or any other size) driver is not 12" or 6" because cone surround decreases that and every surround has not the same width, but if the effective diameters really are 12" and 6", then a 12" driver has exactly 4 times the effective area than a 6" driver or 2 times the effective area of a 8,5" driver (if there is such a size).
If the linear excursion is the same in all those drivers, then the maximum displacement volume of one 12" driver will be the same as four 6" drivers or two 8,5" drivers and thus the maximum sound pressure level will be the same. This is independent of the room size. Bass tuning is disregarded here.
The inner half of the surround belongs to the effective area and the outer half of the surround does not. If we assume that the outer half reduces the effective diameter in both cases by one inch (half an inch on both sides) then the true effective diameters would be 11" and 5". Then one 12" driver would correspond five 6" drivers (4,84 to be exact).
In loudspeakers size matters.
I claim no expertise but I think the lower volumes are when the subs benefit most in a music only environment.But, if you turn the subs off, with the rest of the speakers playing --- big difference. Especially, at mid to lower volumes.
Definitely, a big plus at lower to moderate volumes. It seems that the imaging of the music is better with subs, at these volumes.I claim no expertise but I think the lower volumes are when the subs benefit most in a music only environment.
I'm certain the room & other equipment factor in to a large degree also.
There are a lot of variables here.
Yes, and your answer was excellent, useful and absolutely correct.I just wanted to give a simple answer to a simple question.
I recall Martin Colloms commenting in his review of the Magico S5 Mk2's for TAS, that a pair of the new 10" woofers was equivalent to a 14" woofer
No, not necessarily. While two 8.5" may have the same cone area and even displacement, there will be points where the two sound waves come together and reinforce each other adding an additional 3 dB. There will also be areas where they cancel each other. The idea is to select the arrangement that lets these happen at the desired frequency.
Similar to phase-coupled active and passive in the same cabinet. I still remember the first time I heard the SR8 setup in an Olympus. Quite impressive.If you cross over at 250 Hz, a 1/4 wavelength is ~1 foot and a 1/2 wavelength is ~2 feet. It's easy enough to fit a couple small speakers within those distances.
And there certainly are speakers that use a few smaller woofers that are coupled.
You guys should find the larger ones, 425, 525, and 625. they use passive radiators, two of them matter of fact, and are simply fantastic. I will always wonder why oh why they didn't pair the EMIT with this speaker, it was designed so very well! internally, it's about the best bracing wise I've ever seen.I completely agree about the Infinity RS-325.
Ported, but not boomy or flabby bass. I provided a stereo to my baby sister with a pair of these. They fill her large living room with great sound. I also maintain a pair for myself...freshly re-foamed.
I also employ a 12" inch sub...but very happy with the 6.5" implementation in the 325's.
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