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Dual 1019 start problems

As stated above, get the old grease off, put new grease back on. Never use WD-40.
I was given a Dual 1209 a few months ago, got it working again, it's now my best turntable. Of course, I'm mechanically-inclined, compulsively take things apart for no reason, just to see how they work, and have no social life.
 
As mentioned above, go on vinylengine, and go to the dual page. There's a bunch of info there to help out and if you post there you should get more help than belittling . The table needs a full on cleaning and relubing job.

There are excellent people here who can help with servicing, but only when they feel like helping instead of bashing.

I would use at least 91% isopropyl alcohol as it won't have as much of the other chemicals as a 50% type. Q tips as well as stated above, and when done, AlvaNia grease or similar and sewing machine oil or another light action. Deoxit spray will help on contact points and mute switch and for the arm underneath and above to clear out some old dirt that may be there.

There may need to be an adjustment or two as well underneath, but don't try it unless you have the manuals for it . You will screw up the table if just going without any direction. I'd also clean the idler wheel and check for suppleness and if needed have it redone. Take the motor apart and clean and relube it as well. Use a marker to draw a line on it so it goes on both halves so when you put it back together it will line up properly. Also make sure the idler wheel is level while on the post and out the pitch control knob in the middle as a starting point.

They are a pain to get working properly if you've not done them before, but once done aee worth the effort.

It also helps to be mechanically inclined, have no life, and compulsively like to take things apart for no reason.
 
Greetings and welcome.

These turntables are 40 plus years old and the grease dries out. Gums up the works. As Seth (notransistors) says there are a series of levers underneath and start lever on top. Do get the service manual also mentioned above. Being mechanical inclined is a help too. My first Dual was a 1218. I didn’t have the benefit of the internet back then. Hopefully I can write this in a way that’s is understandable. On that first Dual, I looked at where the “start” lever where you turn it on connects underneath. I followed the levers underneath. Looked to where they went and how they move. Some slide back and forth. Others pivot. Be careful not to force anything. Old grease prevents them from moving freely. There is a large lever that pivots that connects to the power switch. I have had them bind up. Won’t turn on or is stuck in the on position and it won’t shut off. Old grease can gum up the speed selector too. Just had a 1219 with this issue. Feel free to ask questions. Lots info here. Again, welcome.
 
I just fixed a Dual 1218 that I got free. Everything, including the motor was stuck. Glued tight. Fun..Fun..Fun. The motor was still tight after an oiling. Had an odd varnish build-up.. But the detergent oil that I purposely used cleaned everything up after a few hours of running, and then I cleaned and oiled it again and runs well now. Cute little turntable that I will either sell or give to a friend.
 
Roman1771 said:
Ok ill try that, doesn't it seem a bit weird that the turntable was working and then suddenly wasn't ? If it seized up wouldn't it happen over time.Could it be something to do with the rubber wheel that substitutes the belt on this model.
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Have you removed the platter yet? I have a bunch of 1960's era changers with idler drives, including the 1019 and the first thing I do is remove the platter and clean the idler wheel, motor spindle and inner rim of the platter. This will usually get the platter to spin. Then follow @Montycat 's suggestions.
 
NoTransistors said:
I just fixed a Dual 1218 that I got free. Everything, including the motor was stuck. Glued tight. Fun..Fun..Fun. The motor was still tight after an oiling. Had an odd varnish build-up.. But the detergent oil that I purposely used cleaned everything up after a few hours of running, and then I cleaned and oiled it again and runs well now. Cute little turntable that I will either sell or give to a friend.
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Hi Seth,

Funny you give stuff away too. Not quite sure what to do with this 1219. The little piece that rides on the bearing is broken so I have is set on 33. Did the motor. Other than the speed selector all is good. That first 1218 taught me a lot about Duals. Have a base and cover for the 1219
 
Eric, what little piece where? Do you mean the steel part on speed selector that locks into the spring-loaded ball at each speed?
 
malden said:
Have you removed the platter yet? I have a bunch of 1960's era changers with idler drives, including the 1019 and the first thing I do is remove the platter and clean the idler wheel, motor spindle and inner rim of the platter. This will usually get the platter to spin. Then follow @Montycat 's suggestions.
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Yeah i removed the platter ill try this now thanks
 
Roman1771 said:
Yeah i removed the platter ill try this now thanks
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There are a number of ways to clean the drive components, the easiest is with a q-tip and alcohol to get the built-up gunk off of the rubber idler wheel and brass motor pulley. For the inner rim of the platter where the rubber idler rides, a rag and alcohol would be easier since it has more surface area.

Keep in mind that this is just basic maintenance that should be performed at regular intervals and may not resolve more serious issues.
 
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malden said:
There are a number of ways to clean the drive components, the easiest is with a q-tip and alcohol to get the built-up gunk off of the rubber idler wheel and brass motor pulley. For the inner rim of the platter where the rubber idler rides, a rag and alcohol would be easier since it has more surface area.

Keep in mind that this is just basic maintenance that should be performed at regular intervals and may not solve more serious issues.
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Good place to start. E
 
I was fiddling around and found that when i move this metel piece (photo attached) this moved the rubber wheel and moves the whole plate. But now another problem has arisen now the tone arm doesn't go to 12". It goes off the plate.
 

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Eric, we've been friends for fifteen years. I am sure that I can dig up that part for you, whatever it might be called in the exploded diagram.
 
Roman1771 said:
I was fiddling around and found that when i move this metel piece (photo attached) this moved the rubber wheel and moves the whole plate. But now another problem has arisen now the tone arm doesn't go to 12". It goes off the plate.
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I don't know that much about the inner workings of the 1019, I just know the basics of keeping the idler wheel and platter bearing working properly so hopefully someone with some knowledge of the 1019 auto-functions will join the thread and help you out...:thumbsup:
 
Look at the carrier bracket. There is a spring attached to it. At the other end of that spring is the lever which tugs it into position. That lever has a pivot that is cemented with old grease.
 
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Now when i start it the needle stays on the record for about 1 second then lifts up and goes back to start position. And when move the control to stop it stops and then starts again. It wont stop unless i unplug it.
 
malden said:
@Roman1771 , Are you mechanically inclined? Do you compulsively take things apart for no other reason than to see what's beneath the surface? Do you have no social life?

If you answered yes to all of the above questions, then you have what it takes to get a 1960's era record changer working again...:thumbsup:
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I am LingOL!

Doug
 
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