reydelaplaya
Super Member
I just spent the last half hour reading up on the differences between the two.
And here all along I just thought that the term for all that clear mid-century plastic was acrylic lucite.
Thanks John!
Dustcover Hinge Fix
- Thread starter boreas
- Start date
I just spent the last half hour reading up on the differences between the two.
And here all along I just thought that the term for all that clear mid-century plastic was acrylic lucite.
Thanks John!
boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
I wish they were all acrylic! Being softer and more flexible makes the material much less prone to cracking (and much better for ballistic armor). You can actually cold bend it to conform to a curved surface (as long as you can secure it in place.... otherwise, it just springs back). As we all know from sad experience, polystyrene will snap if you try that. (I think this has to do with long chain polymers (acrylic) versus short chain polymers (Polystyrene) but don't hold me to that.)
Also, being softer, acrylic is a snap
to polish. It takes much less elbow grease than Polystyrene.By the way, as you may have learned in your research, "Lexan" is a DuPont trade name for their polycarbonate acrylic.
John
boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
That had occurred to me too. Model glue is getting a bit hard to find these days, what with "huffers" and all. I think most hobby shops try to sell you cyanoacrylate (a.k.a. "CA", "Krazy Glue" or "Super Glue") instead.
I still think the joint would need reinforcement. Even though you do get a weld with model cement, the cement itself remains behind to "contaminate" the weld. It doesn't evaporate the way the products for acrylic do.
John
Vinylmasters
Super Member
boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
So was the one I fixed in the OP. You should be able to fix that one the same way I fixed the one for the Yamaha.
First step is to cut away the "web" that the tail of the spring busted through, leaving the side supports.
Then drill a hole through both supports by drilling through the first side and continuing through the other. That way the holes are aligned with one another. Make the hole the same size as the nail you;re going to use. I'd suggest a 4d or 5d finishing nail cut to a length so that it's a little longer than necessary, perhaps 1/8". That way you'll have 1/16" protruding from each side of the hinge.
Next bring the free tail of the spring back tight against the plastic half of the hinge and, while holding it there, insert the finishing nail through the holes and then release the spring.
That's it!
John
Vinylmasters
Super Member
First, I need something to attach the finishing nail to. That's the problem on this one. It's all plastic on the side that holds it, and no matter what you put there it won't hold. The ONLY fix I can think for it is a simple straight metal brace screwed to each side of the hinge to hold the spring back in place. It's ugly, but if I can't find hinges for it then I really don't have any other choice (which begs the question: which models have the same hinges as the Dual CS-505-2??)
boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
If I understand you, the sides of the hing where you intend to put screws is where I drilled the holes for the pin. Believe me, if it'll hold your screws, it'll hold my pin.
It really should work. From your photo, it appears that the hinges I repaired are the same design as your Dual hinge.
The finish nail passes from one side of the hinge to the other through the hole that you drill through the plastic. It will hold.
I played with your photo a little.
Above, you'll see the red lines. They correspond to the cuts you need to male to open up the space where the pin will go. (Really, you don't have to remove it. It just makes it a helluva lot easier to push the spring back into position before inserting the pin/nail.)
The green line is where the pin will be. Drill the holes in the sides of the hinge along that line and maybe 1/16" to 3/32" from the top edge.
Above is the photo of the hinge I repaired. As you'll see, it's the same design as your Dual hinge.
John
It really should work. From your photo, it appears that the hinges I repaired are the same design as your Dual hinge.
The finish nail passes from one side of the hinge to the other through the hole that you drill through the plastic. It will hold.
I played with your photo a little.
Above, you'll see the red lines. They correspond to the cuts you need to male to open up the space where the pin will go. (Really, you don't have to remove it. It just makes it a helluva lot easier to push the spring back into position before inserting the pin/nail.)
The green line is where the pin will be. Drill the holes in the sides of the hinge along that line and maybe 1/16" to 3/32" from the top edge.
Above is the photo of the hinge I repaired. As you'll see, it's the same design as your Dual hinge.
John
Attachments
Vinylmasters
Super Member
That's what I thought too, but there isn't enough there to hold it (the picture doesn't show it very well). Yours has a bump 'out', these have a slope 'in'. There just isn't enough material there to drill the hole through.
Vinylmasters
Super Member
I can trim the piece away, no problem. But there just isn't enough there to drill the hole for the pin - the hinge is too short to reach it.
starchoice
New Member
Fixed!
Here are some observations. I was having some difficulty trimming the excess plastic. It was never mentioned what you guys were using to trim the plastic. I decided to leave the plastic. If there is enough there, it will act as support for the finishing nail. I suppose this could eventually give way like the original. The excess plastic was helpful because I could not get the finishing nail to the other side due to the pressure of the spring (and probably no 100% hole alignment)...but it works. I suppose that if I was able to remove more of the trim, I would have had more maneuverability to get the nail to the other side.
Okay, now that I had the experience, hinge number two is next but probably three quarters of the plastic was blown from that spring. I decided to use one of those large paper clips which is great because it provides more grip for sliding it through the holes. Just straighten out the end and start working it. Once it was through, I left enough slack at the end to make a small half loop to ensure there is no sliding back. Once it's through, I cut off the balance of the paper clip (at the initial entry), again leaving enough excess to loop it up.
If my first hinge fails, I'll just re-fix it using the paper clip idea.
This was for a Yamaha P-450.
Here are some observations. I was having some difficulty trimming the excess plastic. It was never mentioned what you guys were using to trim the plastic. I decided to leave the plastic. If there is enough there, it will act as support for the finishing nail. I suppose this could eventually give way like the original. The excess plastic was helpful because I could not get the finishing nail to the other side due to the pressure of the spring (and probably no 100% hole alignment)...but it works. I suppose that if I was able to remove more of the trim, I would have had more maneuverability to get the nail to the other side.
Okay, now that I had the experience, hinge number two is next but probably three quarters of the plastic was blown from that spring. I decided to use one of those large paper clips which is great because it provides more grip for sliding it through the holes. Just straighten out the end and start working it. Once it was through, I left enough slack at the end to make a small half loop to ensure there is no sliding back. Once it's through, I cut off the balance of the paper clip (at the initial entry), again leaving enough excess to loop it up.
If my first hinge fails, I'll just re-fix it using the paper clip idea.
This was for a Yamaha P-450.
I didn't. I drilled right behind it and slid a finish nail in.
Awesome. I'll try it your way first, but mine isn't as broken away as yours so I'm wondering if I'll have trouble sliding the nail in front of the spring end.
boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
If you release the other tail of the spring from the tab on the metal half of the hinge, you should be okay.
John
Yep. Takes some force to reset the metal side, but doable.
