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Dynaco Mark III Restoration (2023)

cosme

New Member
I thought I'd let everyone follow along as I restore a set of Dynaco Mark III mono block amplifiers.

I have benefited greatly from this community (general discussion, KLH Model 6 restore thread, etc.) and thought I'd create this thread for anyone else looking to do a full restoration this year (or in the near future).

I'll try to be as detailed as possible throughout this project. Don't hesitate to ask questions (or offer tips!).

The Units
This is what I'll be working with (or at least one of them):

Here we have a side-by-side after I stripped one of the units of all its components:

Nothing much to look at from the back:

The inside of one unit (with a choke); notice the choke placement is on the side, which is different from what you normally see in a Mark III unit:

And the inside of the other unit (currently without a choke):

Finally, one of the bottoms:

Restoring the Chassis
Bottom Plate Covers

I initially thought that the chassis was stainless steel. Thinking that, I first soaked the bottom plate covers in a sink with dish detergent and scrubbed off the surface dirt and grime. I followed that with a deeper clean using Barkeeper's Friend. The bottom covers still had a lot of work needed so I took out my sander and gradually progressed from 240 grit sandpaper, to 320, 400, 600, and finally to 800.

The photo compares a washed (soap + Barkeeper's Friend) bottom plate cover on the left, with a sanded one on the right:

And here's a side-by-side after I finished sanding both:

I soon realized that I was working with galvanized steel rather than stainless steel and the blemishes are areas that still had the original zinc plating or where it had eroded over time (or I had sanded off).

Having realized that these were zinc plated, I have decided to take them to a local electroplating service provider near me. I should be getting those back in a week or two.

Transformer End Bells (Covers)
Up next we have the transformer end bells, or covers.

Here is what they looked like on the outside:

And from the inside:

Here's a close up of the gnarliest looking on:

My plan here is to paint them a metallic (anodized) blue, specifically Dupli-Color's MC201 Blue Metalcast. I have a 3-year-old who loves tinkering and helping me with electronics. I asked him if he'd wanted to have these in his house one day and he emphatically said "Yes!", so I've let him pick out the color.

To get good results with Dupli-Color's metalcast paints, you need either a shiny or chrome finished surface. I opted for the latter and spray painted these end bells with Rust-Oleum's Metallic Silver finish (#340648):

Outside:
Inside:

I tried to take a shortcut and didn't bother sanding these down. Big mistake, especially when seeing these from the top:

So I took out the sander and gave each of them a quick pass:

And then re-applied the Rust-Oleum Metallic Silver:

Huge improvement (as one should have assumed)!

Next up on the to-do list for these is to apply the Dupli-Color metalcast paint. Stay tuned.
 
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Continued...

Transformers
Some of the transformers looked better than others, so I decided to give these a touch up while the end bells were off. Here's an example of one of them:

Before:

After a quick wire brush:

After applying Rust-Oleum's Flat Black Protective Enamel (#7776730).

I opted for this oil-based paint as it was at my local hardware store and others had recommended it for transformer touch-ups. However, the label says not to apply to surfaces that exceed 200°F, so hopefully that'll never be the case with these transformers.

Lids
I repainted the lids using Behr's Premium Black Satin, available at Home Depot.

Before:

After:

Misc.
I also touched up the existing choke. Didn't really capture good photos of this but here you go:

Before:

After:

And since I'll be keeping the quad can capacitors mounted on the units, I did a quick polish of these using my Dremel and Parker & Bailey's Stainless Steel Polish. You can see the difference here in the small area at the top of the photo (...bottom of the cap).

That sums up where I am so far. I'll update this thread as I make more progress. However, have a baby on the way in a matter of weeks so it may get quiet for a spell between parenthood and the gradual purchase of components.
 
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I'll be installing Triode Electronics' SDS Labs power supply boards.

However, I haven't yet decided what to do about the driver boards. The PCBs are original and look to be in pretty good condition.

Is my money better spent on recapping the original PCBs with higher quality components (e.g., Mundorfs), or am I better off (sonically and money wise) moving to Triode Electronics' modern capacitor board (their stock resistors as well as the upgraded Solen caps)?
 
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Very nice resto so far. I would use good quality caps such as Orange Drops, or good metallized film Panasonics, etc. I would not spend excessive money on boutique caps. Many rebuilds have had excellent results with "normal" parts.
 
Looks like at least one of your amps is a Mk2 rather than a 3. One of the pictures shows only 3 terminals for speaker connections. The Mk2 only had 8 and 16 ohm speaker connections. Looks like it may be the early version with the larger circuit board. I have a pair of these, one of which has the larger PC board. I made closure strips to allow for use of the modern size boards. Can't see the output transformer part numbers in your pictures. Nice start so far. What are you planning for the chassis finish?
 
Very nice resto so far. I would use good quality caps such as Orange Drops, or good metallized film Panasonics, etc. I would not spend excessive money on boutique caps. Many rebuilds have had excellent results with "normal" parts.

Thanks for the feedback. Will keep this in mind.
 
Looks like at least one of your amps is a Mk2 rather than a 3. One of the pictures shows only 3 terminals for speaker connections. The Mk2 only had 8 and 16 ohm speaker connections. Looks like it may be the early version with the larger circuit board. I have a pair of these, one of which has the larger PC board. I made closure strips to allow for use of the modern size boards. Can't see the output transformer part numbers in your pictures. Nice start so far. What are you planning for the chassis finish?

Correct, one of the units was orginally built as a MKII (hence, no choke).

Transformers are A430 and P782.

For the chassis, I'm hoping that I'll just keep it as-is after it returns from being nickel plated, but that will ultimately depend on how that finished product looks.
 
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Looks like they both have the earlier and wider PC boards. My pair is one each so I closed up the wider opening so I could use the same boards in both. I used a shim of the same material on the right to keep the board level.
20220713_110441.jpg
 
The Mk ll also used EL34s rather than KT88s, which will typically perform better than 6550s.

Dave
Nice restauration, really deep cleaning.

As a side note, as i made some measurment on a MkIII i plugged in 2 EL34 "just to test". And it performed equally
well as 6550 in lower power, and it actually could deliver 62w before clipping occured.
 
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the finished product along with an assessment of how they sound.

Will they be getting new tubes?
 
I'm just starting a rebuild on my MK III's and I decided to go with the tubes 4 hifi 6SN7 based board, as I like the 6SN7 sound. I've also spent some time researching the choke and the consensus seems to be that it's not very good. Here's a link to a recommended, and less expensive, replacement:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/553-C24X
 
That's the choke I've purchased. I bought the boards from the easten European seller that also sells the auto bias boards as a set with his 6SN7 boards.
 
I'm just starting a rebuild on my MK III's and I decided to go with the tubes 4 hifi 6SN7 based board, as I like the 6SN7 sound. I've also spent some time researching the choke and the consensus seems to be that it's not very good. Here's a link to a recommended, and less expensive, replacement:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/553-C24X
I almost went with the 6SN7 boards in my Thbes4HiFi ST-70 and M-125 mono blocks. But stuck with the 12AU7 boards. I like the 6SN7's too. I use them in my preamp, but I like the 12BH7 too and they sound nice in these amps. Plus there are other choices like E80CC's and ECC99's.
 
I almost went with the 6SN7 boards in my Thbes4HiFi ST-70 and M-125 mono blocks. But stuck with the 12AU7 boards. I like the 6SN7's too. I use them in my preamp, but I like the 12BH7 too and they sound nice in these amps. Plus there are other choices like E80CC's and ECC99's.
I'm very pleased with mine that I did with 6SN7's, super clean and seems to have better refined bass to my more stock pair.

20210426_160318.jpg
 
Really good looking units, Steve! I know the replacement boards are popular and many folks like them. I just wish they came with published information as to the performance they produce (versus the original specs) besides a basic sensitivity specification. Not a gripe, but something I think should be provided with such a major change to the design. The MK IIIs are great amps with so many options available to them.

Dave
 
Really good looking units, Steve! I know the replacement boards are popular and many folks like them. I just wish they came with published information as to the performance they produce (versus the original specs) besides a basic sensitivity specification. Not a gripe, but something I think should be provided with such a major change to the design. The MK IIIs are great amps with so many options available to them.

Dave
Hopefully as I acquire more test equipment, I'll be able to post some performance readings. To my ears, they sound very close to the modded Eico HF-87, and better than my stock pair.
 
Really good looking units, Steve! I know the replacement boards are popular and many folks like them. I just wish they came with published information as to the performance they produce (versus the original specs) besides a basic sensitivity specification. Not a gripe, but something I think should be provided with such a major change to the design. The MK IIIs are great amps with so many options available to them.

Dave
I've been thinking the same thing about all these different driver boards. I don't own or have any experience with any Dynaco equipment, so I don't have a horse in this race. However, one would think if they are buying something of this nature that alters the orginal amp design, you would see full performance comparison between the old and new driver boards.
 
i have two that use 2 6cg7 for the front end and svetlana winged C 6550s. the other two use original 6an8 boards that I'm trying to resurrect (and mismatch of tubes from the bin).

I'll be watching this. thanks for the detailed post.

I think OP will enjoy the amps.
 
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