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EconoWaveguide Utility Large Advent Build Thread

I will probably get the boards stretchy for a clean look like you mentioned. I'm very excited to start this, it really seems like the best of both worlds.

My brother in law has a pair of the smaller advents with fried egg tweeters and the smaller woofer with the giant dustcap. I keep wondering if those would make great e-waves.

I also had a pair of kg4s for only a day or two which had the crites. I really didn't see what all the fuss was about. Very underwhelming speaker
I've had both... Actually a NLA utility cab conversion and found it much nicer then kg4
 
I have the crossover boards on the way, was the bill of materials identical for these? Or did any of you make any tweaks?
Is an L-pad necessary?
I haven't measured my advents but they are NLA with utility cabs, hoping I can get the tweeter pretty close to the woofer.
 
I have the crossover boards on the way, was the bill of materials identical for these? Or did any of you make any tweaks?
Is an L-pad necessary?
I haven't measured my advents but they are NLA with utility cabs, hoping I can get the tweeter pretty close to the woofer.
Components are all the same. The NLA cabs are easier to fit the waveguide also. The ola bullnose cabs need a bit of modification.
 
Components are all the same. The NLA cabs are easier to fit the waveguide also. The ola bullnose cabs need a bit of modification.
If you choose no lpad, you will need a constant resistor in place. I would use an lpad, if you decide to remove it, get measurement of where you like the setting and just solder in a 1 watt resistor in place
 
I'm going to do a pair of smaller advent e-waves with the spitwad woofers. I found schematics that zilch made for these over on the parts express forum.
He didn't show any pictures of the crossovers but from the looks of it there are 3 inductors! I have some spare ewave crossover boards lying around but I'm guessing I'm going to have to do this as point to point correct?
jx2dC5P.jpg
 
I'm going to do a pair of smaller advent e-waves with the spitwad woofers. I found schematics that zilch made for these over on the parts express forum.
He didn't show any pictures of the crossovers but from the looks of it there are 3 inductors! I have some spare ewave crossover boards lying around but I'm guessing I'm going to have to do this as point to point correct?
jx2dC5P.jpg
After reviving church flea market OLAs with Econowave, I've decided to take on my Dad's SLAs. @poorbastards, how did your SLA turn out. Do I need the polarity swap at the HF like the OLA project? Am I reading the R1 value correct @ 94ohm? Thanks in advance! Also, I do plan on sharing my OLA build here, so this isn't a total thread hijack. :)
 
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After reviving church flea market OLAs with Econowave, I've decided to take on my Dad's SLAs. @poorbastards, how did your SLA turn out. Do I need the polarity swap at the HF like the OLA project? Am I reading the R1 value correct @ 94ohm? Thanks in advance! Also, I do plan on sharing my OLA build here, so this isn't a total thread hijack. :)
I haven't tackled it yet, but I believe somebody else has done it but I can't find find the page in the original stickied thread
 
I know it's been awhile on this thread but I am lost. I built mine right before or after Zilch passed. I have always used them with a Pioneer SX-1010. That's gone done the road. I am using these with a integrated tube amp and the bass is so thin. When I used them in the Pioneer they were manly used pretty loud so wasn't noticed. Now with them on tubes I have to add a sub. Looking back at the beginning of the post I see these woofers should be bassy correct? I don't want thump your trunk but be able to hear it. Listening to Jazz the bass is almost like an after thought we these. Just boring. Are these not a good fit? The amp is 25 watts in Triode mode or 45 watts in Ultra linear. I am perplexed
 
How do you have them placed in the room?

Also, have you checked for torn foam edges on the woofers, they don't last long.
 
How do you have them placed in the room?

Also, have you checked for torn foam edges on the woofers, they don't last long.
They are in a corner about a foot from wall. I have them lifted on the front with a couple blocks. I will check woofers. Other than the selenium drivers they sound lifeless.
 
Check the foam, use a small battery to check that plus as labeled at the end going into
the amp produces outward movement for BOTH channels. If it is wrong figure out if it
is in the box or the connecting wires.
 
has anyone attempted to use this less expensive driver in place of the JBL Selenium d220Ti ?
https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-A...n-Driver-8-Ohm-1-3-8-18-T-294-2827?quantity=1
I have a pair of OLA with the masonite woofers. From my uneducated view they look similar, am i missing anything
@Fatuncle

It's doubtful that anyone has bothered to compare these 2 ( inexpensive drivers ) in situ ( mostly due to the "econo" nature of the original project ).

OTOH, here's a comparison of each driver ( as raw response ) on the H6512-type waveguide ( the PRV measurement is from myself while the Selenium is a published frd made by Zilch ).

FR of H6512 with either PRV D280Ti-S or Selenium d220Ti-S .png

One can see that the d220Ti appears to have more HF past 8K.
- Whether this is truly accurate comes down to the accuracy//believability of each test-mics calibration files ( so it's really anyone's guess as to what's-what ).

Anyhow, I would just try out the PRV driver, and if you find it lacking in HF then simply double the value of C3. ( from 0.47uF to 1uF ).

Also, use this modified schematic done up by Pete B .

index.php


- From his rework thread seen HERE!

:)
 
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Note that the Dayton clone of the JBL 6X12" horn is not exact but the clone from China does
seem to measure well per MTG designs measurements:

I believe that the PRV D230ti measures better than the D280 and that's what I'd suggest for a new
revision of the LA Econowave, also the China Clone waveguide rather than the Dayton.

Here's EarlK's crossover with the D230ti on the H6512 WG, I'm not sure of the crossover frequency
or if it will match up with the LA woofer but it should be fairly easy to tune:
Use my XO PB1 mod, shown in the previous post, for the woofer section as a starting point.
 
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@Pete B

Hopefully you realize that my PRV driver data collection ( for my crossover designs ) is all done with drivers mounted onto the Dayton H6512.

MTG's caution about the H6512 is a bit ambiguous to my eyes ( resulting from the use of imprecise language ).
- His words could in fact mean that the Celestion CDX1731 driver simply doesn't thread all the way into the threaded throat ( & therefore leaves a "gap" between the end of the driver & the beginning of the actual horn ). That type of "gap" is a definite "no-no".

The PRV drivers do thread all the way in >> and therefore properly mate up to the horn entrance.

:)
 
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@EarlK
Oh, I read it sometime back and thought that he was saying that the diameter of the opening was off,
in fact I think he said that several of the Dayton WGs had this problem. But, I read that a long time
ago so who knows for sure. Let me see if I can find a reference.

There's so much data that it is difficult to keep it all straight. Didn't we find differences between the
real JBL WG and the H6512 above 10K? I don't have a real JBL WG so no way to make measurements.
 
@EarlK
In post #20 here you show curves for the H2414HC on the H6512 and on a real JBL WG
showing much more HF from the JBL WG:

Is what you're offering now an alternate theory?
 
@Pete B

What makes sense to me is that if my HighPass ( that I created for a certain driver/horn combo ) is to be recommended, then one should use that exact driver model and model horn ( which in this case is the H6512 ).

As to the mystery about JBL's published curves for the JBL 2414H-C ( on 338800-001 WG ), the response differences ( more HF above 10K ) might just be attributable to JBL hand-picking of the drivers used ( iow; "cherry-picking" their own best-in-class drivers ).
- Also, the 2414 drivers have ferro-fluid in the gap, which adds another variable ( since if it dries up /// or gets cooked, the response curves becomes unpredictable ).

I'm quite reluctant to recommend that eWave enthusiasts import anything from China to scratch the eWave itch ( when I know that the Dayton stuff is more than usable ) .

:)
 
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