I'm barely learning how to read a schematic. I have no clue what the caps are actually doing in the circuit. I've been replacing caps, testing resistors, and checking for continuity on some joints. The longer I stare at the schematic, the more it makes sense, but I still don't know if a cap is in the audio signal path or not.
Larger value electrolytic caps are typically found in the power supply and as cathode bypass caps. Lower value film caps and ceramic or mica types are typically in the audio portion of the circuit. That's perhaps oversimplified a bit, I'm sure someone can provide exceptions if they want to play the "let's confuse the newbie" game.
Typically, the electrolytics and the coupling caps are the ones to replace. The small value ceramic and mica types are most often left alone.
If you're rebuilding the PECs, you can mount the new parts on a small piece of perfboard.
Schematics look intimidating at first but if you can read a road map you can read a schematic. Just think of the lines (which could be wires, or the leads of a resistor or cap, etc) as roads and each component (resistors, capacitors, pots, transformers, etc) as towns along the road. If you follow a particular "road" you will, at some point, come to the "town" shown on the schematic. The actual distance between "towns" will vary considerably so forget about whether the "road" between them is short or long on the schematic. Distances are not accurate. If you follow the "road", though, you will eventually find the "town".
This is the PS section, let's follow the road . . .
From Pin 8 of the GZ34 / 5AR4 rectifier tube, the first cap is C19A, then there is a 50 ohm 10w resistor between it and C19B and then a 350 ohm 10w between it and C19C which is in parallel with C19D. The A, B, C, and D mean they are all different sections inside one of the can caps. The symbols (half circle, square, triangle, no symbol) next to the designation indicate which connection is which and are marked on the bottom of the can.
It's safe to use the modern values that are slightly higher than the originals (47uf, 22uf, etc.) but never use voltage ratings that are lower. Higher is fine.
If there is enough room underneath you can use individual caps to replace them and just disconnect the can and leave it in place to preserve the original look. I'd suggest using caps rated at 105 degrees for 10,000 hours.
Since you've already ordered a cap kit of some type, go ahead and use them but, in the future, I'd suggest ordering individual parts yourself. As you've already found out, sellers of kits don't always send the correct parts, sometimes their quality is not the best and the kit will always cost considerably more than the individual parts. Convenience costs more.
BTW, the 0.027uf 630v caps you were sent are the coupling caps between the 7247 and the output tubes. I've never seen coupling caps that were inside a PEC before, but it looks like that's what Eico did on this. That's probably why the PECs have big bulges in them. Odd.
Replacement can caps are generally rated at only 85 degrees, sometimes less, and their specs are typically nowhere near as good. They are also much much more expensive than individual caps. And, if the original can is soldered to the chassis, it takes a relatively powerful iron to desolder it. Sometimes you have no choice, though, and have to use replacement cans. If one of yours is loose, obviously it should be much easier to replace if you go that route.
The only replacement cans that you can order with higher quality caps inside are from Hayseed Hamfest but they are even more expensive and may take a while since they are custom made.
For individual caps, any of the major brands are fine (Nichicon, Panasonic, Rubycon, United Chemi-Con) but check their dimensions if space is tight. Always get them from a major supplier like Mouser or Digi-Key, never from eBay or from China. Axial lead caps are not as common as radial lead caps so you will pay much more form them. Radial leads can be bent to the side easily enough and will usually fit without problem.
Individual caps can be mounted to a terminal strip if you have enough room to mount one. I found this pic of the inside. Looks like plenty of space around the cans to me. The screws near the one towards the bottom can be used for a terminal strip.
Another method I've used is to mount replacement caps to the ground tabs of the old can. To do this, I disconnect everything from the central tabs of the can and then cut those central tabs off (not the twist lock tabs around the perimeter, just the ones in the center) as flush as possible to the bottom of the can.
There are usually four twist lock tabs. Two are typically solid and two usually have holes in them. You can mount individual caps directly to the old tabs. This only works with new caps that have leads, not the "snap in" types.
The key is to cut the negative lead of the new cap very short, no longer than necessary. The negative lead can be soldered through the twist lock tabs that have a hole. You need to twist the lead tightly around the tab so that it's held in place mechanically. Really this applies when mounting any part, the mechanical connection should be enough to hold it firmly before any solder is applied.
If the lead is very short, the cap really can't move around, so that's the key.
This is very important. Too long and it can flop around and possibly short. The positive leads are also then cut short and resistors can be mounted between them, just like they were on the original can.
Shipping costs for small orders can get expensive. Here's how you can get free shipping:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...hipping-on-parts-orders.739513/#post-10018562
