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EICO HF-81 constant flutter noise through speakers

Augie Pink

New Member
Hey guys! I recently acquired a “fully serviced/restored” EICO HF-81 which I have connected to Heresy II’s speakers and I’m getting a constant flutter noise from both speakers and I’m not sure how to go about this. I’ll take any advice at this point before I have to take it to someone to repair it! Thanks in advance!
 
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Hey guys! I recently acquired a “fully serviced/restored” EICO HF-81 which I have connected to Heresy II’s speakers and I’m getting a constant flutter noise from both speakers and I’m not sure how to go about this. I’ll take any advice at this point before I have to take it to someone to repair it! Thanks in advance!
Do you mean the noise is more like a putt putt noise. Flutter is not a term that i can relate to a tube amp defect.
 
Alao.is this happening only when playing records on a turntable?
Thanks for the reply! No, it happens at all times but it worsens a bit when switched to the phono stage. It flutters or “motorboats” even when nothing plugged in just speakers.
 
Mother boating can be caused by a bad capacitor. If it's in both channels I would help looking at the main filter.caps in the power supply. I'm not familiar with that model, it you may have a section in a cap.can going bad. If so, I wouldn't use it like that it could short out. The few ti.es I've had a motor oati g problem it was a bad capacitor. One was a multi cap can and another was an old paper electrolytic cap.
 
Unfortunately, for a lot of sloppy techs, "fully serviced/restored" means they changed out the most drastically faulty components but left the "tests okay" originals in place. Could be a bad PS capacitor or some failing tubes or resistors.
 
Tables are exceptionally susceptible to microphonics. I went with a spiral wound 12AX7-LPS primary driver on my HF12a (same unit really, only mono) and went from some serious noise to barely a hum on idle. Also went with 7025A on the channel drivers to smooth out the top end.

Clean the hum pot on the back. Great noise source if it's oxidized ...

You might also want to check the "death cap" on the power control. Those can leak a lot of noise.
 
Unfortunately, for a lot of sloppy techs, "fully serviced/restored" means they changed out the most drastically faulty components but left the "tests okay" originals in place. Could be a bad PS capacitor or some failing tubes or resistors.
Yeah they said “it didn’t have hum or flutter” when they sent it so it had to be on my end but that’s just what people say I suppose. I’m going to have to take it in asap. Could this ruin my speakers by the way? I have Klipsch Heresy II’s. I’ve been using it with the flutter because it’s not to the point I can’t listen to music or watch movies but I hear it when things silent down.
 
Tables are exceptionally susceptible to microphonics. I went with a spiral wound 12AX7-LPS primary driver on my HF12a (same unit really, only mono) and went from some serious noise to barely a hum on idle. Also went with 7025A on the channel drivers to smooth out the top end.

Clean the hum pot on the back. Great noise source if it's oxidized ...

You might also want to check the "death cap" on the power control. Those can leak a lot of noise.
This is my first integrated tube amp so I don’t know much of the lingo like “hum pot” and “death cap” but this is the type of info I need! Which brand did you use for the tubes?
 
Yeah they said “it didn’t have hum or flutter” when they sent it so it had to be on my end but that’s just what people say I suppose. I’m going to have to take it in asap. Could this ruin my speakers by the way? I have Klipsch Heresy II’s. I’ve been using it with the flutter because it’s not to the point I can’t listen to music or watch movies but I hear it when things silent down.

I wouldn't be using it until the problem is solved. It's indicative of issues that might get worse.
 
If you bought this on the big auction site, it's returnable. The seller's opinion regarding source of the problem isn't relevant. It's also returnable if you bought it elsewhere using a credit card. You don't need the seller's permission to send it back.

Jack
 
Hey guys! I recently acquired a “fully serviced/restored” EICO HF-81 which I have connected to Heresy II’s speakers and I’m getting a constant flutter noise from both speakers and I’m not sure how to go about this. I’ll take any advice at this point before I have to take it to someone to repair it! Thanks in advance!
Pics would help, both of the top side and the internals. It might then be possible to determine if the power supply caps were replaced, either by a new can or with individual caps mounted below deck. They are the most likely source of the problem.

You might want to ask the seller the specifics of what he means by “fully serviced/restored”. To some sellers that means a bit of polishing and spraying the pots with contact cleaner. Ask, in particular, if all the electrolytic caps in the power supply and cathode bypass were replaced. How about the coupling caps? Out of spec resistors?

Get this sorted before you spend any money on new tubes. The symptoms of a noisy tube are different.
 
This is my first integrated tube amp so I don’t know much of the lingo like “hum pot” and “death cap” but this is the type of info I need! Which brand did you use for the tubes?

- Hum pot is an adjuster control located underneath about in the middle of the board. Look for R5A in the schematic.
- Only brand I'm aware of that makes the spiral wound tube is Sovtek. All other tubes are TAD.
- The "death cap" is the large capacitor attached to ground from the power switch. An example ...

eico-death-cap.jpg


Another trick to try - attach a ground wire between your input sources and the HF. That can help a lot. If there's no ground posts, any screw to each metal chassis will work. Also (if possible) try balancing the load from your input if it's got an output adjustment. My DAC was overpowering the Eico and creating strangeness probably similar to what you're hearing, but turning the DAC down a few notches and adding a ground wire did the trick.

PS - Have you tried the different inputs? Not uncommon for folk to convert those to make the unit more flexible with today's equipment, and not uncommon for them to get it wrong. My TAPE HEAD input was already converted for line level when I got it, and is actually cleaner than the stock AUX for my DAC.

And ya, recapping can get interesting. I couldn't find a multicap short enough to fit, so I went with separate caps under the board. New caps are much smaller, so plenty of room. That gave me some hum, but moving the cap leads a bit here and there solved that problem. It's also not uncommon for folk to "stuff" the old cap can by cutting the cover off and basically stuffing matching separate caps inside the can. And yes, that can be a bit of a crapshoot in the wrong hands. Done right though, such a repair is electronically the same and can be hard to spot.

rebuild_complete.jpeg


Short version - don't expect that going with the classic stuff is gonna be easy sometimes. Worth the effort though, as you're looking at some mighty good sound once you get it right.
 
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Motorboating, a low frequency oscillation, is the likely problem. If the amp design is competent and did not always do that, then likely power supply 'lytics may be compromised and need replacement. Another cause of that comes up when an overzealous modifier decides that if a little capacitance is good, then the more the merrier. If that is done with interstage coupling caps, motorboating can be the result.
 
As fir hurting your speakers, if the oscillation is bad enough it could cause the woofer voice coil to bottom out or over extend. Neither is a good thing.
 
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