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Finally! DQ-10s in da house!

theoman said:
The domed tweeter works fine, but the super tweeter in both speakers don't work with crossovers. if I hook them up direct they do.

where did you buy the inductors?
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I bet they are working fine. When they are plugged in outside the crossover you are hearing the entire frequency range. When they are in the circuit you are only hearing about 14kHz and above. Chances are your hearing above 14kHz falls off quickly. That's the same for most people. It's very hard to isolate the super tweeters when they are in the circuit.

Get an empty paper towel roll and play a signal sweep. You can put the paper towel roll up against the driver and your ear. This will help isolate the sound. Get a signal sweep off YouTube.

I got the inductors from Parts Express. Note, the AWG of my new inductors is thicker than the originals. The DCR is lower. This will change the crossover frequencies somewhat, but I don't care. They are close enough and they sound fantastic. But to the purist, you will want the right thickness for the inductors. The only way is to wind them yourself.
 
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walleyeny said:
May I ask total cost on parts for crossover ? Great information . Nice job .
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It's in there, around page 2 or 3. I think they were $65 for the caps from PartsConnexion, including shipping from Ontario.
 
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Making a divot in the cabinet for the metal tab would mount the rheostat so that it would not turn which might be possible if the nut holding it got a bit loose but not loose enough for the rheostat to back out past the metal tab-divot connection.
 
Blue Shadow said:
Making a divot in the cabinet for the metal tab would mount the rheostat so that it would not turn which might be possible if the nut holding it got a bit loose but not loose enough for the rheostat to back out past the metal tab-divot connection.
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Also true. I used a lock washer and a dab of speaker glue.


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OK folks! Another DQ-10 has entered the house. These aren't mine, but I have agreed to get them up to standards for a friend of a friend. These are EARLY DQ-10s that were later mirrored. The PO rewired them with some kind of power cabling (at least they labeled everything), and recapped most of the caps and replaced most of the resistors (not sure why). What's weird though, is the standard hookup terminals were abandoned in favor of alligator clips hanging from the back of the crossover. Over the years, the wires' insulation was cut by the metal grills and...well...it's a mess.

At first blush, the woofers obviously need foam. I think they should get rewired to restore the original connectors (maybe upgrade them?). Also, one of the woofers has a tinsel lead that came unsoldered. But all the drivers miraculously are working 100%. Will these need a recap? Maybe. Not sure yet.

Feast your eyes on these beasties!

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Note, I think these are the original CTS woofers, not OLAs.

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It is a fine thing I don't live closer to you, Baco. I know you're up to the challenge. This should be fun.
 
Here's how the crossovers are looking. Most of the components on the boards measured within spec, including these stacks of summed capacitors. With the exception of the mid bass caps, which were replaced with 80uF e-lytic caps, and the .15uF film caps for the super tweeter. Those were replaced with Dayton .33uF caps summed in series with a measured value of .16uF, so within spec now. Also added to the 1A fast blow fuse and fuse holder to the tweeter. These are so early that they had no circuit protection. More recent models had two methods of circuit protection, a 3A on the main board and a .8A on the tweeter. Color coding on the wiring is as close as I could get to original. The rheostats were Sprayed and tested and measured fine. Should be wiring in the woofers today and testing them out this afternoon!

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They sound: Oh, so good!

Here's the list of what I did:

1) Test all drivers
2) Woofer refoam
3) Repair one woofer tinsel lead that was broken
4) Clean L-Pad
5) Rewire entire crossover, and reinstate the rear binding posts and L-Pad (replacing the alligator clips)
6) Test all crossover components and label them
7) Replace .15uF and 80uF caps with new (out of spec).
8) Add fuse holder to tweeter circuit
9) Replace the foam blocks in front of the woofers.
10) Test everything and reassemble

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Nice grab, Brian! I'm hoping to find a pair at Buy the Pound :D. I hope you bring them in February to Frankenfest, I'd really like to hear them. :rockon:
 
I too, have never experienced the Dahlquist magic. It looks like some mad creation by an audio noob, but apparently, is brilliant.

Great work, baco.
 
bobsvinyl said:
Nice grab, Brian! I'm hoping to find a pair at Buy the Pound :D. I hope you bring them in February to Frankenfest, I'd really like to hear them. :rockon:
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These are the fourth set I've gone through. I still have my first pair. Something very special about them. This pair belongs to someone else. I hope he'll be pleased with the result.
 
Hey folks, new member here. I specifically joined this forum to take part in this thread, some terrific, timely advice for me. I recently picked up a pair of DQ-10s that are badly in need of a crossover rebuild. They must be an early version as there are no fuses anywhere. Also, the caps are black and red electrolytics made in Mexico.

I have a couple of additional questions: One of my midranges is out, it was mentioned in this thread that the Heco KMC-38 is a good replacement, any thoughts on where to source these? Also, it looks like the fabric was replaced many years ago with what looks like ugly curtain material, where is a good place to go for appropriate fabric?

Thanks for your help, glad to be a member.
Don

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Woodlawndon said:
Hey folks, new member here. I specifically joined this forum to take part in this thread, some terrific, timely advice for me. I recently picked up a pair of DQ-10s that are badly in need of a crossover rebuild. They must be an early version as there are no fuses anywhere. Also, the caps are black and red electrolytics made in Mexico.

I have a couple of additional questions: One of my midranges is out, it was mentioned in this thread that the Heco KMC-38 is a good replacement, any thoughts on where to source these? Also, it looks like the fabric was replaced many years ago with what looks like ugly curtain material, where is a good place to go for appropriate fabric?

Thanks for your help, glad to be a member.
Don

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WELCOME!

A couple things:
1) Nice find.
2) Definitely do a recap.
3) I used the Heco mid because I happened to have one on hand. A better mid would be the Philips dome mid that Infinity used on the Quantum series. <-- Note, many of these suffer the same issue with the tinsel leads breaking and may need service.
4) I get most of my fabric from Parts-Express, if you want standard black.
5) Looks like the PO replaced the original masonite ring Advent woofers with the newer metal frame replacements. They is OK, they will perform the same, but no that they are not the originals.
 
Woodlawndon said:
Hey folks, new member here. I specifically joined this forum to take part in this thread, some terrific, timely advice for me. I recently picked up a pair of DQ-10s that are badly in need of a crossover rebuild. They must be an early version as there are no fuses anywhere. Also, the caps are black and red electrolytics made in Mexico.

I have a couple of additional questions: One of my midranges is out, it was mentioned in this thread that the Heco KMC-38 is a good replacement, any thoughts on where to source these? Also, it looks like the fabric was replaced many years ago with what looks like ugly curtain material, where is a good place to go for appropriate fabric?

Thanks for your help, glad to be a member.
Don

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Don, I suggest you try to repair the midrange dome. I had the same problem two months ago with one that didn't work. I had to replace the tinsel wire and resolder it. There is a good amount of info on this forum. Check out this thread (very useful) and this other one.
Don't open the midrange, just cut the tinset wire, replace it and resolder it with a fine hair of speaker wire because it is very likely the problem is not inside the midrange but just in the tinsel wire itself, that needs to be replaced. If you open the midrange you will need to align the voice coil in the magnet and that is a pain.

You have an early version, yes.
It is good that it comes with feet.
It seems that you won't need to refoam the woofers.
Fuses that you are missing are Bussmann AGC 0.8A and Bussmann AGC 0.75A. 0.75A are easy to source (3/4 AGC). One in each speaker. I don't know if you should install them.

Best of luck!
 
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Maybe these are really early and had CTS woofers and those were replaced with the newer style advent woofers. I guess a review of the crossover could shed some light on this but I'm not sure.

The fuses mentioned above, the 0.8A is correct, the 0.75A is a sub for the 0.8. These are for just the dome tweeter. The whole speaker fuse located on the input panel is a 3.0A fuse. All are regular fast blow fuses. Maybe your rebuild will include installing these if you have lots of power and are concerned about damage.

Not looking at the linked threads but recapping should be to the post s/ n: 04134 schematic and use film caps for all capacitors. The 80uF is a bit of coin but it feeds the mid-woofer and makes a sonic difference according to some.

Mirror-imaging is an option while you have the crossover off the cabinet. I'd do it right and not just cut one support leg, leaving the crossover in the same place. Moving the crossover only requires the wires to the woofer to be a bit longer. Not too bad.

The dahlquist group is on the .io groups and has a pile of files for more info or you can just ask here. I would very definitely start your very own new thread on this project so you can have everything in one place and it will be a fresh read for most.

Where are you located? What other gear will you use with the speakers? Welcome to AK.
 
Thanks for the advice and links guys, very helpful. I'm going to give a go on fixing my midrange, we'll see how it goes. The crossovers definitely need recapping so I'm putting together a list from some of the posts here. And as long as I'm doing that I figured I may as well do a total refurb being inspired by Baco.

I'll start my own thread once I get the parts in. I currently have a Hafler 220 amp and Nikko pre that I am anxious to hear with these speakers. Thanks again.
Don
 
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