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Fisher C800 Contemporary

TheRed1 said:
Dave, I don't see any rips or pulls in your grill cloth . . . why not wash it? I cleaned mine with some pretty harsh solvents to remove what looked like a chocolate milkshake spill. There was some very minor fading in the stain area but I can live with it. The Fisher factory grill cloth is surprisingly tough. Just make sure to staple it back in place before it dries.

Incidentally, the finish on your C-800 "P" looks just like the "fruitwood" on my old Premiere. I am very impressed with the condition of your Contemporary. All you need are some legs and you'll be good to go.
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Thanks Red! As I need to remove the old cloth anyway, I'll give a try to cleaning it. Do you have any suggestions as to a method?

And yes, the finish looks just like my '63 Custom Electra in "fruitwood" as well.

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Dave
 
relaximus said:
Thanks Red! As I need to remove the old cloth anyway, I'll give a try to cleaning it. Do you have any suggestions as to a method?
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I draped the grill cloth over a large diameter, 3' long wood dowel and rolled it back and forth along the edges of my utility sink. I used my hands to squeeze the fabric against the dowel and work the cleaner into the fibers. I started with laundry detergent and worked my way up to auto upholstery cleaner. (That's what probably caused the minor color fading.) Judging from your photos you might only need to use the laundry detergent.

Good luck.

Carter
 
Carter;

Just don't mistake that Dowel for a Rolling Pin or the wife WILL have a fit. LOL!!!!

Larry
 
I've done some grille cloth that way without horrible problems. I'm not sure what I did with the original fabric off of my C800, though. Better to fill a sink with water and Woolite and wash it by hand, IMHO.
 
Allrightythen! Out come the Playtex gloves and washboard.

I'm hoping to be able to remove that front baffle and pull it out the back without destroying the original pleated paper/wool/pressed-industrial-waste insulation as it's still in remarkably good shape.

Dave
 
relaximus said:
So I'm guessing a washing machine (on delicate setting) would be bad.
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It would probably be fine - like Sam says - but I was afraid the agitation might unravel the edges. Doing it by hand gives you the advantage of being able to catch something like that before it progresses too far.
 
Red:

Well, you're probably right. I'll go the hand-wash route. Any thoughts on preserving the "insulation" (which looks like it just came out of the factory) that is attached to the sides and bottom within the lower portion of the cabinet? As the speaker baffle must be removed through the rear of the console, I fear that I'm going to tear/destroy that paper insulation material as I pull that baffle-board out.

Dave
 
There's actually a chassis underneath all that muck (dial lamps replaced as well)!

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And beautifully laid-out with room to work!

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The CBS branded grey plate 6BQ5's with the cool, halo getter. The rest of the tubes are marked The Fisher and proclaim MADE IN USA with date codes from the last quarter of 1957. These 6BQ5's appear to be from the 3rd quarter of '58 which (I assume) also dates the unit itself.

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Dave
 
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VERY CAREFULLY!!! Those mounting clips in the corners are the only things holding the glass on. And the Tabs break easily. Remove the top clips and slide the glass out.
 
I ended up taking all four of mine off because the clips were rusty and needed to be cleaned, but Larry is exactly right.
 
Exhuming the tunrtable:

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Turntable's out, now what to do? This thing looks nasty! I need to get it off of the mounting board so I can begin to pull it apart, clean and lube it.

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Dial glass successfully removed, cleaned and reinstalled. I elected to leave the Medalist Series II script for now. I also replaced the dial lamps. I still need to figure out the crossover cap values before I finalize my PE order of caps for the R-20.

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Dave
 
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Dave; Peel the tape off and you'll see the value for the wax covered cap, and be able to rotate the Dry lytic around to get it's value and voltage. probably 2uf/50V and 4uf/50V.

To remove the TT from the board, uncrew the 3 screws from the top (there is a captive nut in the springs). This applies to the RC-88 all the way up to the RC-121 and any others that use this design spring setup.


Larry
 
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