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Flexy table design questions!

G

ga foo 88

New Member
I was wanting to build one of the flexy audio racks at humblehomemadehifi.com , but I have a couple of questions first...

Do you guys think the sand filled shelves are necessary? worth the time and effort? Also I have checked Lowes and Home Depot, the only threaded rods I can find are 2 feet length, 3 feet length, and 6 feet length. I was thinking about using birch ply, oak ply, or pine laminated handy panels available at Lowes... any concerns?

Any other suggestions, ideas or links to similar builds?
 
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I built mine using the six foot 5/8" rods from Lowes. Used the 3/4" ply and cut them to size. I noticed that the ply would have a ring to them when they were knocked with my knuckles.

Two coats of latex semi gloss black painted on both sides cured a lot of the ring so they now just make a dull thud sound.

Turntables are a different animal altogether as they are very sensitive to vibration. Hence the need for sand filled shelves and such.
 
If it was me, I'd build the standard flexy using plywood and wait for a winter day to tackle the sand-filled shelf aspect.
 
Bob Clobber said:
I'm very happy with my Flexy built from the TNT audio original design. I used MDF shelves, and rubber washers to reduce vibration. The sand filled shelves seem like overkill, IMHO.

Some claim, however that a rack can make a considerable difference to your listening experience

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=273934

:lmao:
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I wasn't a forum member when this went around but WOW. Break in time for a rack? I suppose a tiny part of me thinks maybe but the logical me says no way :no:
 
ga foo 88 said:
I have a few ideas for some different shelves...

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10146525
http://www.lowes.com/pd_72820-53705-LBR-72820_4294934134_4294937087?productId=3043418

The pine panels are long strips of pine glued together, not the ones with the finger joints.

What would be a good size threaded rod to use if I want to only use 4 or 6?
Also, do you think I could cut the rods with an 18v sawzall and the appropriate metal blade?
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I would go with Ikea myself

3/4" looks best IMO and is strongest. 5/8" is fine. Brass rod is more expensive but looks nice.

Sawzall used carefully might work but a cutoff saw seems like a better choice to me. I'd use an angle grinder with an abrasive blade before a sawzall. Just my opinion which along with a buck will buy you a cup of coffee. Make sure the workpiece is secure and wear safety equipment.
 
Where would I source the brass rod? I have a giftcard to Lowes so I thought I could buy the hardware and rods there. I only have access to a sawzall right now, I thought I could make a miter box type jig to get a semi-straight cut.
 
ga foo 88 said:
Where would I source the brass rod? I have a giftcard to Lowes so I thought I could buy the hardware and rods there. I only have access to a sawzall right now, I thought I could make a miter box type jig to get a semi-straight cut.
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Just GOOGLE brass all thread, you will find several results.
 
ga foo 88 said:
Where would I source the brass rod? I have a giftcard to Lowes so I thought I could buy the hardware and rods there. I only have access to a sawzall right now, I thought I could make a miter box type jig to get a semi-straight cut.
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Yea Google is your friend. I think McMaster Carr used to carry it but someplace had brass rod :scratch2: cheaper. Sorry I can't recall where. Again it is expensive.

Since Lowes and the Depot don't carry it I didn't mention that standard steel 1" rod is also available. Ace might have it but you have a Lowes gift card so...

Seems like you may as well use Lowes. Try to find a non bent piece. Btw you can buy coupling nuts to connect two sections of rod. Not sure if that is an option for you.
 
Coupling nuts could be a possibility, since i think 48" is a perfect height. I actually dont mind the appearance of the Lowes threaded rod, if it was cleaned up a little. Right now I am out of town, but when I get home I guess its time to take yet another trip to Lowes and a driver down to Ikea.
 
Here's mine. I used 3/4" All Thread due to the extra width. Very happy with it. The top shelf is currently supporting my TT on a sandbox and a VPI 16.5 RCM. Bamboo is strong stuff :D

4614458722_f2edcf21e2_b.jpg

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http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=295506
 
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Do you have spikes on the bottom of your flexy table? The link said to put 3 spikes on each leg. Here is a small update: I bought the 96 in x 26 in Lagan Ikea counter top, and got a new rigid jobsite table saw. I should have a product either this weekend or the next.

Thanks for all of the help thus far.
 
I went to Lowes and Home Depot today to get all of the hardware and rods, and the rubber washers are like a dollar a piece, and i would 32 of them. Does that sound right?
 
ga foo 88 said:
I went to Lowes and Home Depot today to get all of the hardware and rods, and the rubber washers are like a dollar a piece, and i would 32 of them. Does that sound right?
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Unfortunately that is probably right, the greedy *^#^%#'s. Maybe the garden section has hose washers that are cheaper? They have a 5/8" ID hole, IIRC.
 
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