Fused TD 124 speed selector

[cmcguire]

This WILL NOT budge:



I've let it soak in acetone for 24 hours. I've tried heat. Nothing. Any ideas?

 

[tnsilver]

There's a retainer "C" clip and a polymer washer under it. It all looks fused together, possibly melted by acetone (Acetone??? ).
I can't see through that deformity. It's suppose to be like this:

 

[cmcguire]

There's a retainer "C" clip and a polymer washer under it. It all looks fused together, possibly melted by acetone (Acetone??? ).
I can't see through that deformity. It's suppose to be like this:

Thanks for the pics! Yes, acetone. As anyone who is familiar with separating seized or corroded auto parts, an acetone-transmission fluid solution is an extremely effective penetrating rust removing solution. It would never dissolve the c clip or washer. The c clip was badly rusted to the chassis but was removed mechanically- the shaft is completely seized to the chassis itself.

 

[dbxdx5]

What kind of heat have you used?

 

[cmcguire]

What kind of heat have you used?

I've applied a heat gun on high to the chassis surrounding the speed selector shaft in the hope of getting it to expand and release the shaft. I've gotten it very hot (way too hot to touch) but it still won't budge at all.

 

[tnsilver]

That's a tough one! Just a silly question... Did you free access to the speed control shaft and assembly from the other side?
The part shown in your OP is rotateable. You know, if everything else fails, maybe a pipe wrench would turn and free it...
I'd use a ton of WD-40 on it before I try it. In any case, it looks like this from the other side:

 

[cmcguire]

That's a tough one! Just a silly question... Did you free access to the speed control shaft and assembly from the other side?
The part shown in your OP is rotateable. You know, if everything else fails, maybe a pipe wrench would turn and free it...
I'd use a ton of WD-40 on it before I try it. In any case, it looks like this from the other side:

I removed this assembly before I began on the shaft. I've tried light heat from a small propane torch but still nothing. Great suggestion about the pipe wrench but I'm afraid the amount of torque I'd need to use would crush the shaft or at least collapse it beyond recognition- I could try this as a last ditch effort though...

I'm afraid that I'm going to have to drill it out and *gulp* find a replacement part. I do happen to have a speed selector shaft from a TD 135 but it does not terminate in the little inverted cup that the speed selector belt rides on. I wonder if I'd be able to modify it. Dunno. I'm running out of ideas!

 

[the_nines]

Here goes nothing...

Heat expands, cold contracts. Try putting it in the freezer over-night. The metal should shrink a bit.

..... maybe.

 

[dbxdx5]

Perhaps try holding a soldering iron against it. That can work for bound platter spindles.

 

[cmcguire]

Sorry man, like I said, it's a tough one. I have the TD-135 too, so if you need pix to see how anything is assembled, lemme know.

Thanks it I doubt I'll need the 135 part now as I've decided to order a replacement from one of the table cannibals on the bay. This morning I brought the chassis to a friend who has access to a metal shop on the military base just down the road. To make a long story a shorter one, we had to drill out the shaft of the selector assembly. It was like it was welded to the chassis. I managed to salvage the "bell" part of the assembly that the ball bearings ride on and spot welded a piece of hollow lamp arbour that fits perfectly as a replacement shaft. I'll attempt to use this part as a stand in while I await the proper replacement. Thanks everyone for the advice, it's too bad I couldn't salvage the part.