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Gear rack/stands

mikeybc said:
Or relying on gravity ? Shelf simply sitting on top of rods with the rods fillting into partially drilled holes for stability. Looks very clean that way.
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Yes Mike you got it! Gravity with partially drilled holes, it's stable. The top and bottom shelf were made from Jarrah (an Australian hardwood) and the other shelves are made from Baltic pine which is softer and eaeier to work with. The rods run all the way through from bottom to top and once the nuts are all tightened it's extremely heavy with good stability. It looks a bit industrial/rustic and took a while for the Mrs to warm to it. Thanks, glad you like it.
 
I like the way strawbsy partially drilled through the top shelf. It adds a nice touch.

That style/type of rack has been around for a while. First I heard/saw of it was 20+ years ago on the TNT-Audio site. They call them Flexy racks. I built a dual flexy back then that I still use. The Salamander Archetype stands from Audio Advisor use the same all thread rods. The TNT-Audio ones and the ones from Salamander use 5/8" all thread for the rods.

Salamander has screw on spikes for 5/8" all thread. I use them under my Dual Flexy.
 
I've been using all VTI racks & amp stands since 1999 ,here's the VTI racks holding the main gear for my new McIntosh XRT-28 biamped system I'm working on now .
20190324_183552.jpg
I've had this VTI rack set up for around 20 years now ,the amps are all that's changed to me using dual pairs of Mc-1201s to drive the 4 McIntosh XRT-22s ,I love how VTI has kept their rack lines constant over multiple decades because it makes adding or replacing shelves & hardware easy peasy jaoaneasy ,and low cost .
20190324_183552.jpg
 

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strawbsy said:
I drilled about 3/4 into the timber, it's a snug fit, very heavy once assembled..
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could you please post a link to whew i can but the hardware used in your rack? the threaded rods and the nots etc that you used?
 
Dadbeh said:
could you please post a link to whew i can but the hardware used in your rack? the threaded rods and the nots etc that you used?
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Used this idea of the "3/4' threaded rods" as well getting the idea from the DIY forum, tearing apart a huge oak table (1900 circa), cutting, then reassembling making five levels. But heavy as all get out!

Had to put some big sliders under the acorn nuts on the bottom in order to move it. Four same-type nuts on top to finish off the rods. You have to build a jig in order to drill the holes or they will never line up when putting the rods through the various levels.

Looks good. Solid, with lots of space. And a lot less expensive in the long run.

For what it's worth.

Q
 
Quadman2 said:
Used this idea of the "3/4' threaded rods" as well getting the idea from the DIY forum, tearing apart a huge oak table (1900 circa), cutting, then reassembling making five levels. But heavy as all get out!

Had to put some big sliders under the acorn nuts on the bottom in order to move it. Four same-type nuts on top to finish off the rods. You have to build a jig in order to drill the holes or they will never line up when putting the rods through the various levels.

Looks good. Solid, with lots of space. And a lot less expensive in the long run.

For what it's worth.

Q
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ok i fond some half inch thick 72 inch long on lowes website. for shelves im gonna go with not so thick solid wood or even thinner MDF because i need something that i can move around anytime.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-0-5-in-x-72-in-Standard-SAE-Threaded-Rod/3128773
 
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