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Help Identifying Really Old Caps - Pioneer SX-440

Jmkrull

New Member
I'm going through an old receiver and pretty much every cap is leaking fluid on the boards, so time to make the swaps... I'm trying to figure out what's going on with some super old caps I have. I have never seen anything like them and they have markings I'm not too sure about. Tried looking them up but I'm not 100% on what they are. If anyone is a whiz and knows, help would be greatly appreciated. They're the clear plastic ones and the big green thing in the picture below. The markings I'm having trouble with are:

- 852J (Styling of the big green thing)
- 393JK (Styling of the big green thing)
- 1800J WV50
- 4700J WV50
- 5000K WV50
- 393JK WV50



There's some more of those clear things around with values like 820K WV50 (82pf 50V 10% ?) and 680J WV50 (68pf 50V 5% ?) that I think I identified properly. I just haven't seen 4 digit numbers and/or multiple letters.

Thanks in advance!
 
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You only need to change the electrolytic capacitors. The film and ceramic capacitors not only have nothing to leak, do not degrade with time, and also, will completely throw the tuner out of alignment if you change them - leave them alone unless you have the equipment/skill.

For values, you could try and decode them, but why not just look at the service manual for the receiver? It has board layouts and parts lists, and is easily downloadable if you do a google search.

But I reiterate - change only the electrolytic and tantalum capacitors. You will do more harm than good by changing all the others.
 
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You only need to change the electrolytic capacitors. The film and ceramic capacitors not only have nothing to leak, do not degrade with time, and also, will completely throw the tuner out of alignment if you change them - leave them alone unless you have the equipment/skill.

For values, you could try and decode them, but why not just look at the service manual for the receiver? It has board layouts and parts lists, and is easily downloadable if you do a google search.

But I reiterate - change only the electrolytic and tantalum capacitors. You will do more harm than good by changing all the others.

Kinda have to, my man. That's only part of the board and you can't see it, but the sideways green one behind the one standing up is literally sitting in a puddle of goo. Most of the clear ones are bleeding out of the cap, or down under the board. I'm not messing with the ceramics and films, but i'm replacing the bad ones. Appreciate the tip. I'll go that route.
 
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