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HH Scott Owners Thread

RS Steve said:
My latest Scott restoration is this 340-B that was missing all its tubes and bottom cover. I gave it a complete restoration, and added two more test points so all output tubes can be measured for bias separately. It turned out real nice, but still need to fabricate a bottom cover for it. Most likely will use perforated metal screen that's thick and sturdy enough.

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Beautiful! Not sure what you’re using for tubes but RCA 7025 sound particularly good as well as Tesla 6U8a.
I would advise against a perforated bottom, mostly in the case of a cap fail, it’s likely not going to happen but a solid base will keep whatever your amp is set on from getting damaged by electrolytic material.
 
Scott 222C (1).JPGScott 222C (7).JPG

Bought this fully restored 222C last year on BT. Sounds fantastic driving Forte IV's. I am contemplating selling it to fund the restoration of a recently acquired 299C. Not sure I really want to part with it though. First world problems, I know.
 
RS Steve said:
My latest Scott restoration is this 340-B that was missing all its tubes and bottom cover. I gave it a complete restoration, and added two more test points so all output tubes can be measured for bias separately. It turned out real nice, but still need to fabricate a bottom cover for it. Most likely will use perforated metal screen that's thick and sturdy enough.

View attachment 2966594
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Nice job Steve ! Yours looks very clean. This is a fine sounding receiver.
I may have missed your restoration thread but definitely just make a bottom plate out of sheet metal!

Ought to be straight forward.

What brand power tubes? NOS ??
 
TomD62 said:
View attachment 2966595View attachment 2966596

Bought this fully restored 222C last year on BT. Sounds fantastic driving Forte IV's. I am contemplating selling it to fund the restoration of a recently acquired 299C. Not sure I really want to part with it though. First world problems, I know.
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The 222C is a sleeper amp ! Very good phono stage etc.. 299C gets all the raves, but it also is an excellent amp.
 
Sonytubes said:
Nice job Steve ! Yours looks very clean. This is a fine sounding receiver.
I may have missed your restoration thread but definitely just make a bottom plate out of sheet metal!

Ought to be straight forward.

What brand power tubes? NOS ??
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Most of the small tubes are originals, output tubes are new production Tung Sol 7591's.
 
Had to sell a rare pilot to get my first Scott.
Couldn’t pass on the price tho and it looks very clean with original scott labeled outputs and rectifier.
 

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Scott also made great tuners. Picked up a 310e today that appears to be completely original including the tubes. Plugged it in right away and despite using a crappy antenna it easily picks up stations and sounds amazing.

I'll put new electrolytics in but I'm super happy it even works after buying it in unknown condition from a local auction site.
 
Hi, I have an H.H.Scott LT-110 FM Tuner. Except the tubular capacitors and the 25 uF electrolytics, is there other capacitors I could change to improove the sound ? I kown my 299B has some black ceramics cap in the signal path. I also read this quote from the Tuner information center about the 335, a multiplex adaptor which apparently are very close the multiplex section of the LT-110 :

"Our panelist Bob rebuilt a Scott 335 and got to like it. "I have it hooked to the H detector output on the Kenwood 600T. It needs a LOT of caps replaced to sound good - there are 5 ceramics and 3 old Mylar in the signal path that have to go because they make it sound horrible stock. But after replacing caps, and a few other things, and a good alignment, it is a really nice sounding unit for perhaps the best of everything." https://www.fmtunerinfo.com/tubetuners.html

What I do not want is removing a capacitor wich should not be removed.
 
SidSmith said:
Hi, I have an H.H.Scott LT-110 FM Tuner. Except the tubular capacitors and the 25 uF electrolytics, is there other capacitors I could change to improove the sound ? I kown my 299B has some black ceramics cap in the signal path. I also read this quote from the Tuner information center about the 335, a multiplex adaptor which apparently are very close the multiplex section of the LT-110 :

"Our panelist Bob rebuilt a Scott 335 and got to like it. "I have it hooked to the H detector output on the Kenwood 600T. It needs a LOT of caps replaced to sound good - there are 5 ceramics and 3 old Mylar in the signal path that have to go because they make it sound horrible stock. But after replacing caps, and a few other things, and a good alignment, it is a really nice sounding unit for perhaps the best of everything." https://www.fmtunerinfo.com/tubetuners.html

What I do not want is removing a capacitor wich should not be removed.
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I've changed the black pyramid caps with Solens, which have a nice wide EQ. In most cases, it's not so much getting better sound but getting the amps back up to spec, or in some cases slightly better than new. This is done with new caps / rectifier in the power supply, coupling caps, can caps, out of spec resistors, tubes, cleaning pots, and bias or calibration.
 
NIBW said:
I've changed the black pyramid caps with Solens, which have a nice wide EQ. In most cases, it's not so much getting better sound but getting the amps back up to spec, or in some cases slightly better than new. This is done with new caps / rectifier in the power supply, coupling caps, can caps, out of spec resistors, tubes, cleaning pots, and bias or calibration.
Click to expand...

A lot of the stuff I work on has been abused and hacked at by lunatics, but I assume any carbon comp resistor is out of spec, intermittent, or has some other problem. I hate chasing down weird issues caused by ancient resistors known for going out of whack. I'd rather spend the time at the start to just replace all of them, no matter how long it takes.
 
I fully understand that sentiment, CCs can turn into annoying issues. Personally, though I do leave them if in spec or in some cases replace with new CC resistors. More in guitar amps, I find that when they do move out of spec, the result can be a pleasing gain/distortion effect in certain positions.
 
I posted a picture of my 222D sitting on the bench after checking it out. The only thing that I have done to it is to replace the Siemens Selenium bridge rectifier. It was weak and the voltage to the preamplifier filaments was low as was the available bias to the 7189 output tubes. I replaced it with a silicon bridge rectifier.

In the 333B, it also had a Siemens Selenium bridge rectifier. That was for the B+ supply. It too was low so I replaced it as well. Now, both work well with the Empire 598 turntable and Klipsch Heresy speakers.

222D-333B.jpg

Also, I have another setup, an early LK-72 (the one in my avatar) and an LT-110 tuner. They are connected to a pair of Wharfedale WD-70D speakers.

LK72-LT110.jpg
 
I have a 233 on the bench right now, 100% original (except that the tubes were pilfered!!!). I am bringing it up slowly with a Sencore PR57. I suspect the filter capacitors will re-form if I take my time and bring up the voltage slowly. I am monitoring the current draw as well as the temperature of the filter capacitors.

233Bench.jpg

Bench.jpg
 
Here is a piece of trivia for you HH Scott guys. Toward the end of production, Scott changed the output tubes to be 7868 tubes. The chassis was still labeled "7591" but there was a notation that the tubes were actually supposed to be the 7868. Here is a picture of one that a friend of mine had. I really wanted to buy it but others had more money to spare than I!

Note the tube sockets and the chassis marking...233_Top_Early_Arrow.JPG
 
Two very nice setups! I have never seen or heard of 7868 in one of the 7591 Scott amps, but there it is! Very interesting. Right now the only thing I have using 7868's is my Fisher 400. Love those Scott amps--I have a 222B, 299B, 272 as well as a 350B tuner.
 
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