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I don't think I Need to Replace the Crossover Capacitors, Do you?

that'll work. 1% is probably not necessary as the old ones were probably 10% or 20% tolerance but it is cheap insurance that your speakers will sound balanced after you're done.

It doesn't look like 8 uF is an off the shelf value, but for example, you could replace it with two 4 uF in parallel
I ordered them all, including the cheap ones, just to compare for my own experience. Thanks a million for all your assistance. I'll update you when I recap!
 
I unsolder one end of the caps and measure them. If they are within specifications, I leave them in there.
 
There are more sonic differences than just capacitance values. If you replace a 40 year old cap, I am sure you will hear a difference, even though these are very simple crossovers. In the 5 ways I have it was shocking.
 
you should also let them caps burn-in (do not let the burn-in deniers de-rail you)

one way is to play soft-to-loud music in mono with the wires reversed at one speaker
and have the speakers pushed together face-to-face like a heavyweight boxing match face-off

the out-of phase mostly cancels the volume so your shaker roof stays unshaken.

you hear the difference.
 
I ordered them all, including the cheap ones, just to compare for my own experience. Thanks a million for all your assistance. I'll update you when I recap!

Well, I know you ordered your caps. But, in the future, you could always use Parts Connexion, since they're in Canada. Plus, they carry the very good Mundorf E-Cap, NPE series of capacitors.

PC E-Caps

Good luck.
 
Well, I know you ordered your caps. But, in the future, you could always use Parts Connexion, since they're in Canada. Plus, they carry the very good Mundorf E-Cap, NPE series of capacitors.

PC E-Caps

Good luck.

Jee, price is right too. But I'm in the USA, though shipping cost is not too bad. Hate to tell you, I dropped $32 for Daytons. Thanks, I bookmarked that link.
 
you should also let them caps burn-in (do not let the burn-in deniers de-rail you)

one way is to play soft-to-loud music in mono with the wires reversed at one speaker
and have the speakers pushed together face-to-face like a heavyweight boxing match face-off

the out-of phase mostly cancels the volume so your shaker roof stays unshaken.

you hear the difference.
May try that, Bob, thank you.
 
Jee, price is right too. But I'm in the USA, though shipping cost is not too bad. Hate to tell you, I dropped $32 for Daytons. Thanks, I bookmarked that link.

Sorry about that. With all the Canada mentions, I thought that was your location. But, all is not lost, Sonic Craft is the U.S. distributor for the Mundorf E-Caps. Good prices there too.
 
Sorry about that. With all the Canada mentions, I thought that was your location. But, all is not lost, Sonic Craft is the U.S. distributor for the Mundorf E-Caps. Good prices there too.
Bookmarked! Unfortunately I can't cancel my order with Parts Express, I don't think. Really bummed. I live on a fixed income and have to be extremely spend thrifty in order to have a hobby like this.
 
You'll do fine with what you got. What matters most is that you're replacing the original caps. It sounds like you may have purchased the NP electrolytics too? Those are probably what I'd end up with. They'd be closest in sonic performance as your original caps were when they were new. The poly caps will make your tweeters sound brighter. This may or may not be a good thing. Some vintage tweeters can handle it, some cannot. The expensive caps will have a different flavor. But with many of these old speakers, you generally won't be able to hear the difference. And those expensive caps won't make your speaker sound $30 or $200 better. I would imagine all you're attempting to do is get your speakers back to where they should be.

Biggles
 
Bookmarked! Unfortunately I can't cancel my order with Parts Express, I don't think. Really bummed. I live on a fixed income and have to be extremely spend thrifty in order to have a hobby like this.

That's OK. I know all about working to a budget. The main thing is to get the old caps replaced. Those old black/red Callins caps don't hold up well. For that, the PE Dayton NPE's will be fine. Keep us updated.
 
That's OK. I know all about working to a budget. The main thing is to get the old caps replaced. Those old black/red Callins caps don't hold up well. For that, the PE Dayton NPE's will be fine. Keep us updated.
Thanks for reassuring me. I feel a little better and I sure will update you all. Also, I remind myself, the Daytons are 1% tolerance.
 
You'll do fine with what you got. What matters most is that you're replacing the original caps. It sounds like you may have purchased the NP electrolytics too? Those are probably what I'd end up with. They'd be closest in sonic performance as your original caps were when they were new. The poly caps will make your tweeters sound brighter. This may or may not be a good thing. Some vintage tweeters can handle it, some cannot. The expensive caps will have a different flavor. But with many of these old speakers, you generally won't be able to hear the difference. And those expensive caps won't make your speaker sound $30 or $200 better. I would imagine all you're attempting to do is get your speakers back to where they should be.

Biggles
Exactly--I do want the original flavor, feel to the audio, at least for now. Are you asking about these as being the ones that would sound closest to original? http://go.redirectingat.com/?id=101...sover-capacitors-do-you.810682/page-2&xtz=300
 
Thanks for reassuring me. I feel a little better and I sure will update you all. Also, I remind myself, the Daytons are 1% tolerance.

Now I understand, after re-reading the thread. You were looking at polypropylene and NPE's, at Parts Express and at Parts Connexion (the Canada reference). But, I believe you ordered the Dayton 1% poly caps through PE. If so, you'll be fine. The Dayton poly's sound fine. Very balanced, with a nice spacious sound quality. A good choice.
 

Yea, you're original capacitors are NPE's. Your link is to the PE NPE's. They have a 10% tolerance. Good, but they will eventually wear out, like the originals. The 1% caps you ordered are Dayton poly caps. They'll last the life of the speakers (and probably your life, as well as mine). Poly's should sound better too. A bit brighter, but with better detail, bass, and sound stage width and depth. A very good choice, for the money spent.
 
Now I understand, after re-reading the thread. You were looking at polypropylene and NPE's, at Parts Express and at Parts Connexion (the Canada reference). But, I believe you ordered the Dayton 1% poly caps through PE. If so, you'll be fine. The Dayton poly's sound fine. Very balanced, with a nice spacious sound quality. A good choice.
That's what the member who suggested them said--balance. Thanks for seconding on that. Well, I ordered the Germans too :crazy: What the hey, an expensive but great learning experience I'll have experimenting with three types of caps! Thanks again.
 
Yea, you're original capacitors are NPE's. Your link is to the PE NPE's. They have a 10% tolerance. Good, but they will eventually wear out, like the originals. The 1% caps you ordered are Dayton poly caps. They'll last the life of the speakers (and probably your life, as well as mine). Poly's should sound better too. A bit brighter, but with better detail, bass, and sound stage width and depth. A very good choice, for the money spent.
Ah, that's what I like to hear! Yeah, now that you and drbiggles confirm there'll be more highs, that's something I felt was not quite right in the sound. In fact, I can pinpoint it to, I am getting a lot of the horn and would like more of the tweeter and woofer.
 
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