StimpyWan
Addicted Member
I appreciate the concern. But, they're not my speakers. Just a web picture, showing a speaker stand with a "beard". My stands are much taller. My kitties can't reach what's on top!
I don't think I Need to Replace the Crossover Capacitors, Do you?
- Thread starter Grid
- Start date
I appreciate the concern. But, they're not my speakers. Just a web picture, showing a speaker stand with a "beard". My stands are much taller. My kitties can't reach what's on top!
StimpyWan
Addicted Member
eBay seller vintage-ar has his store closed until March 1st, while he is away. That's why the item number didn't work. I'll PM a link to the auction, as soon as I switch back to my laptop.
Also, you could message RoyC at the Acoustic Research forum on the Classic Speaker Pages. Roy sells the sealant too. I'll send his info too.
Also, you could message RoyC at the Acoustic Research forum on the Classic Speaker Pages. Roy sells the sealant too. I'll send his info too.
Grid
Active Member
I see, thanks!
StimpyWan
Addicted Member
PM sent with the links.
Also, Moderators don't allow eBay links in area's other than in Dollars and Sense. It's against AK rules. You might want to remove or break the links, you posted earlier. Threads sometimes get locked otherwise. Believe me, I know...!
Seems like we field this question every couple weeks. Yes, recapping is essential to old speakers.
Yes. And they have a life expectancy of approximately 20 years. So, yes they must be replaced before the modern polys give out. But even so, 20 years between recaps isn't all that bad. I don't worry about it.
Dayton Audio caps, either the 5% or 1% are outstanding caps with a neutral flavor. The more you replace capacitors and listen, the more tuned your Ear is going to be. It's something you have to do for yourself. I've recently received a pair of Advent Legacy II speakers from a friend who asked me to sell them for him. He refoamed the woofers and recapped with modern polys. They originally cap with electrolytic caps. Now the tweeters are too hot, shrill. I'm going to install a 1ohm resistor in series with the + lead on the tweeters. This will simulate the higher ESR of the NP Electrolytics and tame the tweeters back down to where they should be.
Biggles
Grid
Active Member
I'll listen for that. And I'll keep in mind the 1 ohm resistor. Now I understand better about why the NP electrolytics will give a more stock sound, which is what I'm looking for for starters. Thank you again.
Grid
Active Member
I just thought maybe I shouldn't recap since the crossover control seemed to be doing it's job from very dark to full range treble. However, I'm hearing more horn than tweeter. And since recapping will most certainly restore the highs of the tweeter, I'm now confident that recapping will give a smoother blend between horn and tweeter. I've really learned a lot from everyone's comments in this thread. Thank you, all.
Grid
Active Member
Done. And thanks for the heads up.PM sent with the links.
Also, Moderators don't allow eBay links in area's other than in Dollars and Sense. It's against AK rules. You might want to remove or break the links, you posted earlier. Threads sometimes get locked otherwise. Believe me, I know...!
recapping is needed in anything over 20 years old - speakers, preamps, amps, receivers,
turntable with electronics, etc.
and there's a triple benefit, restoration to spec, better caps to choose from, and continued
good operation.
and unless you're a cap-denier or a burn-in denier proclaiming no change in the sound,
then you will hear the difference.
and can enjoy the music for that much longer.
turntable with electronics, etc.
and there's a triple benefit, restoration to spec, better caps to choose from, and continued
good operation.
and unless you're a cap-denier or a burn-in denier proclaiming no change in the sound,
then you will hear the difference.
and can enjoy the music for that much longer.
The capacitor is a filter, it simply keeps the lower frequencies from going into your tweeter and causing damage. As those old capacitors age, and they don't age like wine, one of the things that happens is that they will leak those lower frequencies into your old tweeter. The capacitor also has a higher resistance. So, you have to push more power to them to get them to open up. Now you're pushing more power through a capacitor that's leaking lower frequencies. It is possible to fry your tweeter simply due to a failing capacitor. So, while you may or may not receive a sonic benefit from upgrading your capacitor, it's a good idea to protect your drivers from unwanted frequencies.
As far as new capacitors needing to burn in, here's a applicable quote regarding the dogma. That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence.
Biggles
As far as new capacitors needing to burn in, here's a applicable quote regarding the dogma. That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence.
Biggles
Grid
Active Member
Good to hear from a fellow Utah fan. I'm probably impartial towards Utah. When Dad upgraded to stereo, he gave me a Utah speaker. It was just a blue 8" with tweeter. Just that metallic blue with the red and black connectors and the Utah badge--that looked so high quality to me! I always liked tinkering, so I opened it up and dug into the pink fiberglass and took it apart. This was my first experience with speakers. I'll never forget how fascinated I was the moment I connected only the woofer. That sound was so rich and sweet to my ears then. Left an impression on me, I guess.Always happy to hear somebody enjoying Utah speakers. Their acoustic suspension models were probably their best.
A couple years ago, I bought the Utah you see in my avatar. I recapped it and once again, even in open air, another Utah sounds so sweet to me. But I've not been able to find a mate for it. So I bought these thinking they'd be a good match for my S-C ASR 444 amp, 30W per side (rated at). These are the A-100 with 36 watts handling. Yes, I did my research and the acoustic suspension models looked to sound the best. Also, I understand, the Utah acoustic suspension models with horns are a little rarer to find. Not to mention, for the price I paid, compared to the Holy Grailers, I hope these are the sleepers I was looking for on my very meager budget.
Thanks for chiming in.
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Grid
Active Member
Oh, yes, Bob, I'm but a novice but my main work before tube amps was tube radios and a couple of speakers, like the one seen in my avatar, another Utah. Changing its cap was my first lesson in what a dramatic difference recapping can make in a speaker. Trouble is I've not found a mate for it.
Grid
Active Member
And burn in is something new to me. I'll have to research, I guess.
I'm not Bob!
Ahh man, Hitchens inspires, even from the grave, and on an entirely unrelated topic.
Grid
Active Member
Just an update. I have the speakers out of the cabinet just to inspect the cones and woofer surrounds. And I connected a receiver to the speaker input on the crossover just to individually verify each speaker was working. They are working. Except for the tweeter. Like I said, when I first listened to the speakers, I was hearing bass and the horn predominantly. Lo and behold, it turns out that's because the cap has totally died and is passing no signal at all to the tweeter! Did I say, "I don't think I need to recap"? 
And just to verify that the tweeter is working, I connected directly to it for a few seconds (kept receiver volume way down) bypassing the caps. It too is working fine. Now I can't wait till the caps come!
And just to verify that the tweeter is working, I connected directly to it for a few seconds (kept receiver volume way down) bypassing the caps. It too is working fine. Now I can't wait till the caps come!
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MCM_Fan
AK Subscriber
Just tonight, I replaced the 4uF Temple tweeter caps in my 50-year old KLH Model Twenty Threes. The Temples went straight into the garbage. Probably the most obvious improvement of any speaker I've ever recapped. I wonder if Henry Kloss ever imagined those speakers would still be in use and being enjoyed 50 years after they were originally made. It's quite a tribute to his original design that all it takes 50 years later to make them sound like new is replacing a single 4uF cap (and redoping the cloth surrounds on the woofers - that's next).
Heck his Model Six is even older. The original (early version with epoxied drivers) Model Six turns 60 next month. Maybe some day, I'll own a pair of speakers even older than I am. I've come close, but not quite there (yet).