• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

I was just looking for a record cabinet

What about cutting an opening in the FRONT Large enough to view the amp, but still leaving enough material for stability. Say a 1.5" to 2" edge. Then with some small trim pieces frame it out so you can add a piece of 1/2" lexan with 1/4 round on the front. Then port the front with 4-1" holes (in the wood) and screen them on the back side. Close the back up with 1/2" lexan and put a couple of 3"-4" fans pulling out. Fans up high in the back. If they fail you'll still have a convective effect.
 
Interesting thoughts, both of you. I think I want the protection that comes from not leaving it completely open. I also like the idea I had of putting dual sided banana plugs on the plexi so that if the speaker wire gets strained, it just pulls at that connector and not at the amp itself.
 
You are one lucky guy. Now sell the 12AX7 Mullards and invest that in some smooth plate Telefunkens and that will be one smooth sounding unit. Lovely piece. Enjoy!
 
Saw this score a long time ago on another site but never here. Congrats Mark, that's a killer system!
 
Over my dead body! (Besides, I have smooth plate Teles in the Scott Copley 203 console I got at Goodwill for $10).

Scott Copley Thread

Yeah, the way I see it, best to put British with British since it was most-likely-designed with those tubes in mind. And Mullard EL84's, if I'm not mistaken, are the heart of those great-sounding original Vox AC-30's that the Beatles used back in the day. And the more-powerful Mullard EL34's were the heart of those great early Marshalls. Mullard also made outstanding germanium transistors, which were the heart behind classic vintage stompbox pedals like the Dallas Rangemaster and Sola Sound Tonebender. A LOT of history there.
 
Leak...a great find

The power amplifier is one of the best ever created. It stands up against anything vintage or new. I just checked out leak stuff on ebay and that piece is going for about a thousand. the pre-amp and the tuner are quite modern-good but not the treasure that the power amp is. The power amp came in a more powerful version and runs over 2 grand. Of course Mullards are great but please know that it is the Leak name which is the grand prize here. I would do a lot of research before I ever touched a capacitor in the power amp. Part of the value in these legendary pieces is the purity of the components. Down the road, you have to be able to say that you used replacements that pass as "original". You can "violate" almost any tube equiptment with random picked replacement parts, but the Leak will loose great value if you throw just any capacitors in there. You can hotrod other tube equipment, but you don't hotrod a Leak. Last piece of advise. NEVER sell this. Play it for life. This is an English piece and it is their style to do all of that sergeon- like wiring. It is perfect construction.
 
If you got the tools.....

I'd start by cutting down the bottom set of doors to cover the record area. Don't nobody need to see that.

Cut down the top door to cover the TT, ditto.

Center: Leave it open, move the electronics forward, pushing that façade back far enuf to conceal the wiring; paint or stain the chamber dark and put in a vanity light to show off the treasure.

OR: Same idea but move the electronics to the top, TT to the center chamber and cut the doors down to cover, leaving top section open. To my mind's eye, it'll balance better that way.

Just a thought :yes:
 
I would do a lot of research before I ever touched a capacitor in the power amp. Part of the value in these legendary pieces is the purity of the components. Down the road, you have to be able to say that you used replacements that pass as "original". You can "violate" almost any tube equiptment with random picked replacement parts, but the Leak will loose great value if you throw just any capacitors in there.

My friend Scott did the restoration work already. There is a separate thread where he asks advice. On the second page are pics of the updates. Page 3 has pics of the units in action. I would be curious as to your thoughts on the chosen components. I feel confident that he did a great job.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=432898
 
What a GREAT find!! it certainly pays to open a few doors!

Would you know what the pre-amp cable is called that connected the main amp to the pre-amp is, or what the male/female connectors are called? I need to either buy or make one of these up to connect my 60 into my Variscope 2.
 
Thanks very much markshan for the info, you’re a champ! At least now I know what I’m looking for. I’ve found a website in the US which can send me some. I’ll most likely order them when I put my cap order through. Shame it takes so long to get anything posted to Melbourne, Australia these days.
 
H.J. Leak. ELAC Miracord. Custom furniture. Check. I'd keep this intact and restore it. My wife has the exact same Leak gear, and her record changer is a Thorens TDW-224 changer with a Shure M7D/N21D cartridge. Her speakers are Tannoy. Fine sounding Leak gear. Valuable in it's own right. Sought after. High end British HiFi, among the better of it.
 
The most awesome score. WoW.

I feel luck if i find a Sears Silvertone.....

Well, not really, I've had a few good finds myself...but that Leak Console.....

WOW....just incredible.

Should sound great....that is some high-end gear. And the console looks great too.

Congrats...

Plus, it is better than money in the bank....it will never lose value. :thmbsp:
 
Last edited:
Thanks very much markshan for the info, you’re a champ! At least now I know what I’m looking for. I’ve found a website in the US which can send me some. I’ll most likely order them when I put my cap order through. Shame it takes so long to get anything posted to Melbourne, Australia these days.

Aaron, you don't need the octal cable unless you have a matching pre. The RCAs on top duplicate the line inputs, and the other plugs on the octal are for power to the pre.

EDIT: Nevermind. I just re-read about the Varislope2. Was that at the theater as well?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom