Richs_Trains
Well-Known Member
I have a 4070 and the SV-3A temp sensing diode has a broken wire, I am trying to find either a SV 3a that has been harvested or a direct replacement that will fit the bill. Thank you Rich
Is an NTE605a a direct replacement for an SV-3a diode?
- Thread starter Richs_Trains
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- 4070 bias diode marantz nte605a sv 3a
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Richs_Trains
Well-Known Member
Today I received a much needed SV-3a from CohibaJoe and hope to get back to the 4070 soon, things have been a little out of sync here as they changed my wife's medication and it has reversed her day and she is sleeping on and off during the day and waking up at 2 or 3 am, so I am running on coffee fumes. In the past she would fall asleep at 8 and I could 'play' until I got tired. Doctor said things should even out in a week or two, so hoping to get to the 4070 when that happens. Mucho, mucho thanks to CohibaJoe for giving me the opportunity to complete this project. I'll report back when there is progress.
Baskinator
New Member
What was the symptom of this diode going bad? I've got a 4070 with low volume output on both channels and have not been able to find the source of the problem. This amp is so cramped it's hard to really get in there and test anything...
Richs_Trains
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, my symptom was me breaking off the wire right at the SV-3A. These rarely go bad, but I learned they are very fragile, sorry I could help. Rich
KutzlerTrans
Jennie & I with Buddy and Barney.
Echowars did a thread on this. Its hidden away in my other hard drive. Give Glen a shout and see if he can assist you.
Here is the thread, but may not fit your application.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-the-stv-3h-and-4h-diodes.279530/
Otherwise this may help.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....eed-a-little-help-please.109025/#post-1130103
Here is the thread, but may not fit your application.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-the-stv-3h-and-4h-diodes.279530/
Otherwise this may help.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....eed-a-little-help-please.109025/#post-1130103
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Baskinator
New Member
Ah, oh well...at least now I know not to go messing with those and break the wires! I will likely start my own thread to see if anyone has encountered this.
for me nte605a works well for SV-3A (MARANTZ 2230),
best regards.
Pio
best regards.
Pio
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Hi Pio,
I need to replace an SV-3A in a 4230 and I want to understand what you've done here and whether or not you like the results. It looks to me like you've put an NTE605A into a hollowed out case so that you install it in the original position on the heat sink, is this correct? If so, how do you like the results?
you´re right about the procedure, i use jb weld, it still performing perfectly. hope it helps.
watch out for orientation mark in the original case and connection, check againest working channel.
best regards.
Pio
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Is there another diode recommendation for sv-3a instead of NTE-605a as these are hard to find?
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
SV-03’s are repairable as stated above. I posted a few pics on a repair I did recently where both leads were broken off at the diode body. That 2230 that had a badly blown amp board is completely restored, and sounds awesome.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/salvage-of-an-sv03-diode-from-a-2230.909528/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/salvage-of-an-sv03-diode-from-a-2230.909528/
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The unit I’m working on doesn’t have them they were removed and replaced with a random diode instead thanks anyway Steven
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Old question, but wondering if this person could have just placed the NTE605a on top of the transistor, then wedged proper thickness of rubber to clamp down with existing transistor clamp. Asking because I blew a SV-3A, and like everyone else can not source one.
Also wondering how important it is for the replacement to be touching the transistor, being temp sensing, and having little potential surface contact on circular small varistor.
Picture of 2nd transistor shows where green SV-3A "diode" is clamped on my little Sansui 210.
Just an untrained electronics knob who like to dabble relying on the kindness EE geniuses.
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I followed the photos above and worked a treat for me if you aren’t up for that you could try using the original mount with some rubber and may get a similar result as long as the diode is against the heat sink just make sure the diode legs don’t touch the chassis or heat sink and short out they would need to be insulated hood that helps
Thank you that helps. Will try known proven method, since not smart enough to deviate without knowing possible consequences of mysterious electronics. Challenge seems to be keeping varistor body level with bottom of donor case for solid contact to TR, maybe erroring on the side of slight protrusion by a few thousands of an inch. Will also insulate legs.
If anyone has a spare NTE-605a would surely be appreciated..
If anyone has a spare NTE-605a would surely be appreciated..
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I'd probably get them from peace.love.and.music on fleabay. I've bought a few things for him with great success.
Davron94
Well-Known Member
Reviving this thread due to a broken SV-3A that is unrepairable due to the lead breaking right at the diode. I had already done the rework posted in this thread previously but had to remove the heatsink again due to some other work I was performing on a 4230 unit. the solder point detached and I was trying to carve out more of the lead when it broke from the diode.
I have plenty of NTE-605a's and wondering if it must be encapsulated or can it just be mounted or just touching the heatsink with the bracket by itself?
I have plenty of NTE-605a's and wondering if it must be encapsulated or can it just be mounted or just touching the heatsink with the bracket by itself?