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JVC QL-?? owners thread

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Is cartridge aligment with those protractors sheets necessary?
That site is no longer working for me either, but I got your user's manual (see attached). Due to file size restrictions, I was only able to attach one page per file.
No, you don't need to use protractor sheets; the manual explains how to install and align the tonearm, cartridge, and stylus.
 

Attachments

That site is no longer working for me either, but I got your user's manual (see attached). Due to file size restrictions, I was only able to attach one page per file.
No, you don't need to use protractor sheets; the manual explains how to install and align the tonearm, cartridge, and stylus.
Thank you,
Everything seems ok, but should I make any maintenance like lubrification or recapping or better not touch it at all? Are these things complicated inside?
There is a thumb sound when hitting the plint, does it work to put some bitumen sheets inside, like when damping speakers?
 
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Vinylengine seem not to work, can't login, and can't register.
Is cartridge aligment with those protractors sheets necessary?
Absolutely necessary. Must align your cartridge or it will sound like a cheap toy.

And to really get an improvement w your vinyl experience, get a good quality, known for great performance phono preamp. Something like Mani, or Mani2 can be had for under two tank fulls of gas in your car. I highly recommend getting a Mani or Mani2 if you don’t have a phono preamp and use the built in phono preamp in your receiver or integrated amplifier.

There are many cheap options off various online sites that are garbage. Absolute garbage. Tubes, s.s., doesn’t matter. Don’t be fooled. Get something that has been highly reviewed and recommended. The Mani will provide great bass response with just about any cartridge. I can also recommend the Cornett by Hagerman. They also have a MC4 phono preamp that you can get, but if you get it, make sure to get the optional OPA 2210 opAmp upgrade. Those all will make any cartridge sound better than any internal or cheap Chinese phono preamp.

Now if you have an expensive Macintosh preamp or one of those $25k T+A preamps w optional internal phono preamp, disregard my suggestions. But if you’re just getting started, the Mani or Mani2 are the best options and best improvement that you can make for your vinyl experience. I have played this game many times and literally 40 different cartridges , some up to 5k cost, and the biggest gain and benefit was a fantastic phono preamp.

A premium phono preamp will make a cheap AT-3600 sound better than an expensive Ortofon Black w a cheap internal phono preamp or a cheap online tube phono preamp. I just helped a friend get set up w one of my self built Bugle2 phono preamps. A huge upgrade from his online Chinese tube preamp.

Back to your setup. An easy way to get started with your alignment is to use a cartridge alignment tool like the plastic one you can buy for Technics turntables. They set the distance between the back of the headshell insert w the washer included to the tip of the diamond at 52mm. The only difference is Tecnics uses 52 mm for total length versus 48 mm for your JVC.

So, I just use a pair of calipers to measure 48mm when using the Technics plastic jig to set up a new cart. Align the diamond to the centerline just about 3/16” back from the notch and you can measure it with a pair of calipers. Local Hardware w have them if you need to get one.

It also pretty much aligns the zenith to the cart and I have found that it is almost spot on w a protractor. Set your vtf around 1.5g for starters if you don’t know what the cart requires and the antiskate about the same.
You should get one of those inexpensive mirrored protractors online. Usually cheap as $8 or so and a cheap digital scale too.

For carts as you asked earlier and it was mentioned earlier, the AT 95e is a good choice or any of the AT carts in that price range or lower. The Nagaoka MP-110 is a great choice too. A really good sounding cart. Don’t be afraid to get a conical stylus. They will sound great with most choices. They just wear out faster than elliptical cuts.

I would avoid the Ortofon Red that seems to be so popular. They are really forward in the midrange/hf and are very fatiguing imo. A lot of the old vintage carts will do well with your table. Shure 91e, Empire 2000e, 66e, actually just about any Empire, any of the vintage AT carts, and any of the Staton or Pickering ones will do great.

Just make sure you get a decent new or non worn stylus. Good luck with your project and keep us updated on your progress!
 
Absolutely necessary. Must align your cartridge or it will sound like a cheap toy.

And to really get an improvement w your vinyl experience, get a good quality, known for great performance phono preamp. Something like Mani, or Mani2 can be had for under two tank fulls of gas in your car. I highly recommend getting a Mani or Mani2 if you don’t have a phono preamp and use the built in phono preamp in your receiver or integrated amplifier.

There are many cheap options off various online sites that are garbage. Absolute garbage. Tubes, s.s., doesn’t matter. Don’t be fooled. Get something that has been highly reviewed and recommended. The Mani will provide great bass response with just about any cartridge. I can also recommend the Cornett by Hagerman. They also have a MC4 phono preamp that you can get, but if you get it, make sure to get the optional OPA 2210 opAmp upgrade. Those all will make any cartridge sound better than any internal or cheap Chinese phono preamp.

Now if you have an expensive Macintosh preamp or one of those $25k T+A preamps w optional internal phono preamp, disregard my suggestions. But if you’re just getting started, the Mani or Mani2 are the best options and best improvement that you can make for your vinyl experience. I have played this game many times and literally 40 different cartridges , some up to 5k cost, and the biggest gain and benefit was a fantastic phono preamp.

A premium phono preamp will make a cheap AT-3600 sound better than an expensive Ortofon Black w a cheap internal phono preamp or a cheap online tube phono preamp. I just helped a friend get set up w one of my self built Bugle2 phono preamps. A huge upgrade from his online Chinese tube preamp.

Back to your setup. An easy way to get started with your alignment is to use a cartridge alignment tool like the plastic one you can buy for Technics turntables. They set the distance between the back of the headshell insert w the washer included to the tip of the diamond at 52mm. The only difference is Tecnics uses 52 mm for total length versus 48 mm for your JVC.

So, I just use a pair of calipers to measure 48mm when using the Technics plastic jig to set up a new cart. Align the diamond to the centerline just about 3/16” back from the notch and you can measure it with a pair of calipers. Local Hardware w have them if you need to get one.

It also pretty much aligns the zenith to the cart and I have found that it is almost spot on w a protractor. Set your vtf around 1.5g for starters if you don’t know what the cart requires and the antiskate about the same.
You should get one of those inexpensive mirrored protractors online. Usually cheap as $8 or so and a cheap digital scale too.

For carts as you asked earlier and it was mentioned earlier, the AT 95e is a good choice or any of the AT carts in that price range or lower. The Nagaoka MP-110 is a great choice too. A really good sounding cart. Don’t be afraid to get a conical stylus. They will sound great with most choices. They just wear out faster than elliptical cuts.

I would avoid the Ortofon Red that seems to be so popular. They are really forward in the midrange/hf and are very fatiguing imo. A lot of the old vintage carts will do well with your table. Shure 91e, Empire 2000e, 66e, actually just about any Empire, any of the vintage AT carts, and any of the Staton or Pickering ones will do great.

Just make sure you get a decent new or non worn stylus. Good luck with your project and keep us updated on your progress!
Yes I read about the 48mm length in the manual and set accordingly. I'm using the phono in of my JVC ax1100, can't tell if it's good or no, since it has MC\MM switch, maybe it's not that bad.
What about AT multilinear cart, like a AT-VM95ML, or it's overkill for this deck?
 
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Yes I read about the 48mm length in the manual and set accordingly. I'm using the phono in of my JVC ax1100, can't tell if it's good or no, since it has MC\MM switch, maybe it's not that bad.
What about AT multilinear cart, like a AT-VM95ML, or it's overkill for this deck?
No definitely not overkill. Most of those AT carts will perform great on the JVC tables like yours and almost all of the others that are similar.

The built in phono preamps in any of the integrated amps or receivers are basically okay but imo, or better yet, in my experience, don’t achieve the same results as a great separate phono preamp. Honestly I think you would really benefit the most from a good phono preamp like the Mani2.

You can always return it if you’re not happy with it. They hold their value. I would loan u my old Mani (the original model) but I got rid of it and about 8 or 9 of my old turntables. Old JVC QL A7, Hitachi, Technics, Pioneers, an Onkyo, and others. Still have 3 more to go and just keeping my VPI Scout w Benz LPs low output mc cart.

That’s about $7k of equipment that I run through a Denon 320 SUT into a self built scratch Hagerman Bugle3. The Bugle3 phono preamp started out as a bare flat printed circuit board and the schematic.

I was able to choose all of the resistors, capacitor, and op amps used in the signal path. It makes a huge difference. There is a thread on here entitled “the best phono preamp for under $1000” started by my friend Orando. You should take a look at it if you are interested in building your own phono preamp for about $250 or so.

It truly makes a big difference But to each their own. My point here, I am now able to get fantastic results from just about any cartridge that is within my tonearm’s mass as long as the compliance is within range. I have been able to get very enjoyable results from AT -3600 $35 carts, inexpensive Empire carts and really any others. So far the range of quality goes from $35 to $5k but all of them sound very good to excellent.

I believe the reason is because I have a very good phono preamp. But again, to each their own.
 
JVC QL-Y5F. I have been waiting a long time, and when it popped up for sale I grabbed it, Cartridge that came with it was crap, an is is not the original Headshell, but I bought the correct headshell elsewhere.

It is alive and working!
But I cannot figure out how to adjust the arm height, manual say too loosen knob and adjust arm, but when knob is loose I cannot figure out how to move arm up or down …. Pushing gently up or down gives no response…Can anyone tell me how it is supposed to work, please?


IMG_0316.jpeg
 
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No one know how to adjust the arm height on ql-y5f

manuals here, but there is a trick ai cannot see to adjust the height



Read the F.. Manual. Here is how to loosen the arm before arm height adjustment on JVC QL-Y5F
The shipping screws way never been loosened on my turntable..the shipping screws holds the arm in place most probably . Have to try this when I get home..
IMG_3060.jpeg
Hmm no screw at the lower hole it seems, so why is it stuck at low position??
IMG_0328.jpeg
Suddenly it worked, I had to grip it with both hands , on the side box AND arm. Lifting on both sides - inner and outer -gave even pressure and it slid easy up


Here in somewhat elevated position
IMG_0334.jpeg
At 2g VTF
IMG_0332.jpeg
 
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Have owned a Y5F for 4 years - when purchased it had a Shure M 97 HE Era IV cartridge with the original stylus still in very good condition so have been reluctant to use it too much. Having numerous other cartridges I can use keeps the wear down to a minimum.

At the moment using an SAE 1000 E and rotate a Pickering XSV 3000, Empire 2000T, Shure M 91ED, ADC XLM II and AT VM 95ML with a Grade MF 3 thrown in for good measure.

A few months ago while removing some plasticine I must have somehow touched or disturbed the strip[ where the phono cables are soldered as I had no left channel.

I decided to store it for a time and was just going to take it to a turntable specialist when I decided to recheck the wires leading from the tonearm and at the strip where they are soldered. I was carefully checking the rca cables in case there was a loose wire or cold solder but everything appeared to be fine.


After I attached the bottom cover I gave it a spin and found that the left channel is now present so leaving as it is for now. I should consider doing a recap just the same and possible reflow those solder joints.


I have read that Herbies feet and mat are worth using on this turntable - might look into it one day but so far it is sounding quite good compared to other turntables I have such as a Sansui XR Q7 and SR 838.













.IMG_7389.jpeg
 
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Hello.
I have a request. I bought a TS-1 vacuum pump on eBay, but it is missing a hose for connecting to the QL-A95 turntable. Can I ask you for the dimensions of the hose + connection (TS-1 and QL-A95) so that I can buy a replacement hose?
Is the diameter of the hose, outer and inner + the diameter of the connection thread on the turntable and the diameter of the outlet tube on the vacuum pump enough?
My turntable and pump are still in transit, so I can't personally measure the parameters of the hose.
Thank you for your willingness.
JL
 
I have 2.

My daily driver QL-A75

20200615_121603.jpg


And a QL-Y55F (tone arm not pictured) which now sits in my daughter's system

20260816_072743.jpg
 
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