JVC QL-?? owners thread
- Thread starter BillWojo
- Start date
Thanks for sharing these pictures and saving me the trouble of one day ever opening mine in hopes it's an "easy fix"
Snuck
Active Member
I think when workers were joining Victor, they had a brain surgery to remove the word "easy" of their vocabulary.
Also, the service manual is already wrong at least with the japanese version. The top part doesn't leave after the three scews removed : it is blocked by the led circuit displaying the speed.
However, this opening allowed me to make an easy fix : the electronic break was not working the first pressing, it was stoping once inertia was gone. A little plug was a bit loose.
On the negative side, the little pull I did made me almost have an heart attack when I saw the delicate solders holding the top pannel.
To say how good it is though is simple : my fiancee is a pianist and could detect stylus drag noise that I had to use microphone to spot myself in some hard piano plays of Chopin. Granted the other one have no speed control but a resistor and a capacitor dating from 1969. This one however with the Victor leather sandwich is so close to reality we could feel the piano being there.
Also, the service manual is already wrong at least with the japanese version. The top part doesn't leave after the three scews removed : it is blocked by the led circuit displaying the speed.
However, this opening allowed me to make an easy fix : the electronic break was not working the first pressing, it was stoping once inertia was gone. A little plug was a bit loose.
On the negative side, the little pull I did made me almost have an heart attack when I saw the delicate solders holding the top pannel.
To say how good it is though is simple : my fiancee is a pianist and could detect stylus drag noise that I had to use microphone to spot myself in some hard piano plays of Chopin. Granted the other one have no speed control but a resistor and a capacitor dating from 1969. This one however with the Victor leather sandwich is so close to reality we could feel the piano being there.
Maybe I am tired or have finally just lost my marbles. 
I am trying to re-damp the cueing/lifter assembly on a JVC UA5045 tonearm, or the QL5/7 tonearm specifically which I believe is the equivalent, and I can't figure out how the piston/lever assembly comes apart. Or maybe it doesn't?
I have not found much if anything in the search results, and nothing in the QL5/7 or UA5045 service manuals.
What am I not seeing?
I am trying to re-damp the cueing/lifter assembly on a JVC UA5045 tonearm, or the QL5/7 tonearm specifically which I believe is the equivalent, and I can't figure out how the piston/lever assembly comes apart. Or maybe it doesn't?
I have not found much if anything in the search results, and nothing in the QL5/7 or UA5045 service manuals.
What am I not seeing?
Maybe I am tired or have finally just lost my marbles.
I am trying to re-damp the cueing/lifter assembly on a JVC UA5045 tonearm, or the QL5/7 tonearm specifically which I believe is the equivalent, and I can't figure out how the piston/lever assembly comes apart. Or maybe it doesn't?
I have not found much if anything in the search results, and nothing in the QL5/7 or UA5045 service manuals.
What am I not seeing?
Mystery solved!
A lot of searching before and after my question and I couldn't find anyone who had posted about refreshing the dampening on the QL 5/7 or the UA 5045/7045 tonearms which I think, as mentioned before, all share the same if not a similar lifter assembly. Today I stumbled on a post at VE about a Micro Seiki tonearm which mentioned in passing having to manufacture something for JVC's lifter assembly.
The top of the lifter assembly has a "cover" that screws off - since the lifter post sticks up through that cover, there are flat holes on each side of the post which requires a spanner-type bit. It's rather surprising to me that JVC would've chosen a design which essentially requires the owner to craft a tool to perform such a simple task, but no standard size bit works. It's also surprising that there's nothing about this process in the service manual.
I Dremel'd down a flathead bit into this which straddled the post and easily unscrewed the cover.
Here are the insides of the lifter assembly before cleaning.
I like my tonearms to descend very slowly, so I typically go with 500k silicone oil. I tried 300k out of curiosity but quickly realized it was not up to the task. I think 1M CST could even work too. Note that aside from adding oil to the brass piston, it was also necessary to add some to one end of the cue lever "axle" which slides through the bottom of the assembly. Without it the cue lever flips down too quickly.
Perhaps this job is painfully obvious to other owners and simply never required a post with instructions, but maybe this will help someone else!
best-groove
Active Member
I was about to show you the solution, then I read that the mystery has been solved; I also usually use the 500,000 cst to dampen the descent of the lifter.
anyone with a QL-Y5F that’s had an issue with the stylus not finding/locking into the groove when the tracking force starts to approach 2g with auto start?
Having an issue once it gets to a certain point the stylus will keep jumping out of the groove at the lead-in. If I use the cue button it seems to get to the first track more reliably. If I lower the tracking force dial then it will have less of an issue.
When I try to measure the VTF it does seem to start at around 0.7g until it gets a slight jar then the VTF increases to the set point. Also watching it the stylus seems to jump back so I don’t know if there’s a problem with the electronic anti-skate. This is with a AT-VM540.
Having an issue once it gets to a certain point the stylus will keep jumping out of the groove at the lead-in. If I use the cue button it seems to get to the first track more reliably. If I lower the tracking force dial then it will have less of an issue.
When I try to measure the VTF it does seem to start at around 0.7g until it gets a slight jar then the VTF increases to the set point. Also watching it the stylus seems to jump back so I don’t know if there’s a problem with the electronic anti-skate. This is with a AT-VM540.
Hello- after 25 years of ownership, my QL-Y7 has gone down. Whilst I was away, someone tried to plug into the wall with adapter, not a step-down (I am in Europe 230VAC). And BANG went the mains transformer and fuses. I am looking for Service Manual for this or similar QL-Y# circuit. I saw one which had 28 VAC for secondary supply. Ideally I want to install a 230VAC primary transformer with proper sendary voltage and current ratings to prevent future explosion.
thanks
Sean
thanks
Sean
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I have the same table and really like it. Use to have the QL-Y55F and found this one locally and have not looked back.
3kitty
Super Member
Yes. What I like about it is the front controls. You can operate the table with the dust cover down. Like your pictures.
3kitty
Super Member
That is a nice feature for sure.
NMA
New Member
I think I know where you're coming from ;-)
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NMA
New Member
Hi. I bought a QL-Y44F a couple of weeks back. The arm's lateral movement is silent, but the motor driving the arm-lifter produces a noticeable wirrrr. I have no experience with this turntable, so no comparison. Does the arm-lifter on yours make a noise? Thanks!Just in time
I took possession of a beautiful JVC/Victor QL-Y44F this week, as it happens! I imported it from Japan, used a proxy to bid on a local auction. It's in fantastic condition. Proxy service packed the table very well, so I'm pretty happy about that.
This model wasn't sold in the U.S. I don't think. It has an auto-record-size sensor just like that of the Denon DP-47F.
I almost went with a QL-Y5, I love these japanese rosewood-finish direct-drives so much