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KLH 5 Restoration Complete many photos

zls1camaro

Active Member
I have a nice collections of KLH speakers and after some forum reading in 2013 I went on the hunt for some 5s. I bought these for $50 bucks.

Both cabinets had some degree of damage and abuse. The speakers looked ok but some were not operating. The cabs were disassembled and I traced all the speakers issues to the tired crossovers.

The KLH 5s feature a solid walnut front frame that butts up to the box and the veneer. So to restore the 5s to new I had to carefully remove ¾ inch of veneer where it butted up to the frame. All 8 sides. The all the old veneer was sanded and smoothed so the new veneer had a clean, smooth surface to adhere to. The damaged corners were also mended, readied for veneer.

I used peel n’ stick veneer for this project. I’ve used glue/heat before with ease but I wanted to try something new. The veneer cost around $100 bucks. After buying the veneer I let it acclimate to the house temp and humidity for a couple of weeks before using it.

The new veneer went on like a dream. The edges were trimmed with a Dewalt laminate trimmer and carefully sanded to retain the crisp edges. All surfaces were sanded with 200 and 300 grit paper and readied for stain.

Prior to cabinet staining I refinished the front black trim with light sanding followed by Krylon black satin spray. All told I had probably 15 hours in to the cabinets prior to finishing.

The stain I selected was a Varathane gel stain. I prefer Varathane to MinWax. The color was a mix of 70% walnut and 30% red mahogany. I love working with this gel stain because it does not run and you can work it in to the wood. It is very difficult to screw it up. I also like the gel because it does not raise the grain like regular stain. You can go from stain to clear coat without sanding. Sweet.

After a couple of weeks of dry time I sprayed the cabs with 3 coats Watco Spray Lacquer satin.

The crossovers were rebuilt and brought up to spec with new caps, etc. The woofers and mids were sealed with AR goop.

The reassembly included closed cell foam gaskets and stainless fasteners.

I had tossed the original grills aside at purchase fully intending to go with new cloth. But after further inspection at reassembly, followed by a cleaning with Woolite, they were reinstalled with new color correct olive Velcro.

I was pleased with the effort. I repaired the cabs and crossovers last winter, stained the cabs in August and reassembled over the recent holiday. Good things are worth waiting for. They look and sound terrific.

Next project KLH 6!

See other pics here. http://s298.photobucket.com/user/KickBackHub/library/?sort=3&page=1
Before, during and after.

4kjuhx.jpg
 
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Those are simply gorgeous - thanks for sharing the photos and the process - it's always helpful to read what others do to add to the knowledge base.

Somewhere Henry Kloss has a smile on his face. These fine speakers deserve nothing less than what you did.

So what are you powering them with? What other gear is paired up with them?
 
Lovely! They are gorgeous.

One thing about peel & stick veneer to watch for, veneer "creep". I used it on my six's. Did the same as you, let it acclimate to the environment for two weeks before I installed it. Last summer was very humid and one day I was dusting the cabs and noticed some veneer lifting in a few small spots. The veneer will absorb moisture. I used an iron with a T- shirt on the surface and it helped, but it didn't totally flatten out until the fall.

When I restored my LST2's, I used raw veneer and the glue activated by heat. So far so good.

Glenn
 
Heat works

Lovely! They are gorgeous.

One thing about peel & stick veneer to watch for, veneer "creep". I used it on my six's. Did the same as you, let it acclimate to the environment for two weeks before I installed it. Last summer was very humid and one day I was dusting the cabs and noticed some veneer lifting in a few small spots. The veneer will absorb moisture. I used an iron with a T- shirt on the surface and it helped, but it didn't totally flatten out until the fall.

When I restored my LST2's, I used raw veneer and the glue activated by heat. So far so good.

Glenn

Good point. In my furniture construction I use heat set trim (on rolls). I have stuff built by me 20+ years ago that have been subjected to heat extremes, commercial storage, moving, etc. and holding together great. Glue would be my next choice, but better have a nice size roller, patience and proper glue prep. Peel and stick for me is job specific. I think in a more friendly environment probably fine, but here with the extreme temp changes, snow, rain, freezing rain, low humidity, etc. really hard on wood furnishings. Heck we go from sub freezing in winter to 110+ in the summer.
 
all good thoughts - the peel n stick has been place for a year and it looks sweet. Minor moves. Fortunately my listening room is in my finished walk out basemant so the temp and humidity are pretty consistant year round. We're in Michigan. I too have glued pieces several years old that look like day one.
 
Congratulations and would have loved to have been there to watch the transformation. Such a treat!

I would also like to see where you're taking your images and your lighting setup. Always looking for pointers. If my step-son moved his two drum kits out of the garage, I could set up a nice corner.

Thank you again for sharing!

Biggles
 
Im a former pro photog so the images come easy. I shoot existing light always for things like this. the finished beauty shots are in my listening room using overhead cans and track lighting. natural light is theatrical. the clean lt gray wall is key. no secrets.
 
Im a former pro photog so the images come easy. I shoot existing light always for things like this. the finished beauty shots are in my listening room using overhead cans and track lighting. natural light is theatrical. the clean lt gray wall is key. no secrets.

There's my issue, in my situation I don't have much, if any, existing light. If I do have any, it's from the back of my subject. Which can be fine if I have enough white reflective pieces to bounce light back in. I generally shoot food, which is small and easy for me to manage. It's when I get loudspeakers in front of my camera where I can see my normal schtick just isn't large enough. This is where my mind floats to light boxes and larger reflective gear. I'm a huge fan of diffused natural light, but if I could recreate it without the sun being around I'm far happier. That way I can shoot whatever I want late at night when the bug hits me, ya know?

Biggles
 
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