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KLH Model 6 Recap

I just bought a pair of Model Six speakers at an estate sale. They are the version with removable woofers and nailed in terminal plates on the back. The woofer I removed has an October, 1967 date stamp.

One of them has been dropped on the back. It has a little damage to the back panel, but nothing catastrophic. I thought I would open that one first. I had read the components were encased in epoxy, but I did not know what to expect. Here is what I found. The epoxy had been partially broken up when it was dropped.
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I carefully pried out the nails and got the plate removed. The rest of the epoxy was broken and easily removed. Here is the plate. It has a dual, 2+2 uf cap that I will replace. I have some Daytons on hand.
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There is also an 8 uf cap by itself, easy to access, with no epoxy. It is connected with wire nuts (the photo also show the damage to the back panel). Why did they encase some parts in epoxy like it was Han Solo frozen in Carbonite while this cap was left out?
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Edit - I have recapped Model Seventeen, Twenty Three, and Twenty Four. None of those had epoxy like this.
 
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Well- you want an opinion...lower cost or they knew it wouldn't vibrate enough to be an issue. Wire nuts- never seen them inside a speaker.....hum.
 
Well- you want an opinion...lower cost or they knew it wouldn't vibrate enough to be an issue. Wire nuts- never seen them inside a speaker.....hum.
As an original owner of a pair of KLH Model 6 speakers, I can attest that wire nuts were factory installs. I did a thread here on recapping and refinishing mine - and can attest that the wire nuts did nothing to harm the sound - they are excellent speakers, even today.
 
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Edit - I have recapped Model Seventeen, Twenty Three, and Twenty Four. None of those had epoxy like this.

Only ever seen the banana pudding in a model 6.

It really becomes fun when you've got one with an original woofer built into the motorboard, then you have to go in thru the square hole. I still have scars.
 
I wasn't sure what I had until I got them to my car. The estate sale was at a house filled to the brim with stuff. These were up on a high shelf with speaker wire still attached.
 
Here are the replacement caps. These are the two 2 uf caps that had been frozen in epoxy. I used hot glue to hold them together.
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This is the 8 uf cap that was held by a screwed in clamp. I used two 4 uf caps in parallel. I hot glued these near the original location. I soldered them, but also added the wire nuts for authenticity.
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So, it looks like the switch made it through the crash OK? I would have thought it would be the first thing to go. I'm curious if you're going to fill the crack(s) in the back with Titebond or Epoxy and maybe attempt to jack it back in place from the inside or just replace the whole thing. Yeah, the wire nuts HAVE to be stuck back on or it just flat out won't work ... :beatnik: You're doing a great job!
 
The switch seems OK. I was considering silicone or wood glue for the cracks in the back. I want it to be airtight. I am also going to screw on the metal plate instead of reusing the nails. It is a little mangled and I want it to be tight. I will use caulk rope under it to seal.
 
Here are photos of the switch plate screwed back on. I used Mortite as a sealer. There are also photos of a patch I made on the woofer cone (front and back), and the first coat of Vintage AR doping compound. I am going to be out of town for a few days and will do another coat when I get back.

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Six’s are fabulous, iconic two-way speakers, one of the best vintage two-ways ever produced. Mine are hooked up to my Scott LK-72 restored tube amp, and the combination is sublime!
 
What supplies did you use for your cone patch repair? Any added paper on the back? Looks pretty good from here.
 
Nice work! As mentioned already, the wire nuts were standard equipment. Every pair I’ve opened up had them. Mine have all been completely filled with fiberglass insulation chunks, and I refilled them as found. Great move sealing the woofers, you are ready to rock.

Enjoy! They love tubes, and lower watt solid state receivers. Heck, they sound great with anything I’ve paired them with.
 
I used the remainder of my re-doping compound from Vintage AR on these speakers. I am also working on a pair of Model 20s. I found this compound called Aquaplas on Ebay. Has anyone used it?
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Use RoyC's (previously VintageAR) Magic Butyl Sauce and NOTHING else for KLH and AR skivers. Yes, I've used Auquaplas. Maybe it's THE thing for JBL and Altec stuff but RoyC's stuff is THE thing for your KLH Model 20s. Seriously.
 
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