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KLH Model One & Janszen Model 130 (Recap/Restoration Help)

NickDeO

Active Member
Hello AK,

This has been discussed before by other members in similar situations, but I felt that due to the rarity of these speakers and the number of differences between varying serial numbers, a separate post might better help others in the future.

BACKGROUND:
*Feel free to skip if you’re already familiar with these speakers. Restoration process and questions will be posted below.*

Last week, I was lucky enough to acquire a really nice set of KLH Model One low frequency speakers, including a matching set of Janszen Model 130 electrostatic speakers. The Model One was the first of the original lineup of KLH speakers that were made available In 1957 after Henry Kloss left AR. They were quite pricy at the time, and were offered in a few different finishes. Mine happen to be the walnut cabinets, which were the most expensive offering of the KLH line at the time of their release. Being that these speakers each contain only two 12” woofers (with no crossovers!), they were intended to be paired with something else that would produce the higher frequencies needed for listening. KLH did offer an option for this (which I admittedly know very little about), but the highest option being paired with the Model One was the Janszen 130 — a small, stand-alone electrostatic loudspeaker that sat in the upper shelf of the KLH cabinet. In most cases, these were hidden behind the grille cloth and remained unseen. From what I understand, however, it was a much more common practice to a Janszen 130s with an AR-1/AR-3 loudspeaker turned on its side. Nevertheless, these little electrostatics, which were designed and built by Arthur Janszen in Pennsylvania, are very easy on both the eyes and ears.

Looking back to 1957, I like to think that the landscape of hifi audio was still in its “adolescent era”. Consumers were past the point of wax cylinders and tabletop phonographs, but still had a decade or so before they began to enjoy “the golden age of audio”. As most people reading this might agree, Henry Kloss was one of the pioneers of the modern day loudspeaker as we know it today. Many of his innovations with AR, KLH, and Advent had a great impact on the market and boldly helped to shape the world of audio. With that said, I believe the KLH Model One truly gives us a unique glimpse back to these early days of hifi loudspeakers — right at the cusp of stereophonic sound. In 1957, when KLH first began selling these high dollar units, people were still listening to monophonic recordings, therefore they were only needing to buy just one of these speakers. Today, if you’re lucky enough to come across a stereo pair, it’s likely that they might have different color cabinets and serial numbers that are nowhere near close to each other. The same goes for the Janszens, or whatever else the previous owner(s) were using at the time. Because these are great speakers, many folks had taken the time to hunt down a second one to enjoy listening in stereo. Oddly enough, mine seem to have been sold as a pair from the start, as indicated by their sequential serial numbers (0644 & 0645) and matching cabinets. The same goes for the Janszens (#7256 & 7271), which are likely from the same production run. My best guess is that they were originally sold and hooked up together as a mirrored mono or “pseudo-stereo” setup. Whoever bought these new must have been living quite comfortably, to say the least. A single KLH Model One with the walnut trim (sans Janszen or other mid/tweeter option) sold for $390 before tax — that’s close to $4,500 in today’s money. I can’t find any info on the list price for the Janszen Model 130 at the time, but I know they weren’t cheap. My best guess is that pulling the trigger on this purchase back in the day would be similar to dropping around $15,000 or more on a pair of new speakers today. For the vast majority of us, that’s little more than a pipe dream!

In terms of previous owners, I know I am only the third, as the guy who sold them to me purchased them from the first owner, who at the time was in his late 90s. Supposedly, he told me these speakers were driven for most of their lives by a Marantz Model One and Model Two, which I found to be pretty interesting. I was able to audition them at the last owner’s house on an old Sherwood integrated tube stereo and I was told that “they seem to always sound better with a tube amp”, but I have yet to draw any conclusions of my own.

As a bit of a disclaimer, I was not alive when these speakers were built. In fact, when I was born, these speakers were already ten years older than I am today. If I’ve managed to misinterpret some of the history or leave any interesting details out, please feel free to make corrections. There really isn’t a whole lot of information out there about these speakers, so I’m hoping to do my part in preserving their history. Again, I wasn’t alive to experience this first hand, so the best us younger generations have for finding much of this info is online forums like this one. If you are lucky enough to have the life experience I lack, please feel free to fill in the gaps!

TLDR: A brief history on the KLH Model One & Janszen Model 130, their historical significance, etc. These are pretty old and rare (as far as speakers go), so any other historical insight would be greatly appreciated. There’s not a lot of info online regarding these speakers, so hopefully this will serve to help others in the future.

I will continue to include pictures and links to other helpful threads as I find them.

*A comprehensive restoration post (with a few questions for the experts) will be posted shortly.
 

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I don't have much useful info to add to that, but I can tell you that the August 1960 buyer's guide edition of Audio Magazine lists the MSRP of the Janszen 130 (pdf page 46) as $184 each. The same issue still lists the KLH One in walnut at $390, so presumably there wasn't much inflation between 1957 and 1960 (I also was not alive then).
 
The Restoration Process:

I am by no means an expert on electronics, so I figured I’d start here. While I have successfully managed to recap/troubleshoot/repair a number of speakers and stereo components in the past, it was largely due to the guidance and patience of kind folks on this site.

During my preliminary ‘research’, I determined that it would be a good idea to address the aging surrounds on the KLH woofers and replace many of the components that make up the power supply and crossover in the Janszens. Being that I never worked electrostatic speakers before, let alone speakers this old, I am a bit intimidated by them. I figured I’d instead start with the low hanging fruit: resealing the KLH surrounds. The cabinets/grilles themselves are otherwise in great shape, and there are no crossover components to worry about.

Rest assured, I will be seeking out guidance for the Janszens…

Phase I - Sealing the cloth surrounds on the Model One:

These speakers have two 12” drivers, each housed in their own separate, sealed enclosures. Luckily, mine seem to be in decent working condition. As far as many of the Kloss designs go (to the best of my limited knowledge), the Model One shared the common acoustic suspension design, in which the driver was suspended in a sealed box and relied on the air pressure inside to ensure a tight bass response. The key here is to restore that tight seal to regain that tighter sounding bass.

Importantly, these have cloth surrounds, as opposed to the foam ones that are commonly prone to dry rotting and degrading over the years. What this means is that instead of having to pull the drivers (compromising the seal) and replacing the surrounds, I can get away with simply applying a sealant to the cloth surrounds that will rejuvenate them and prevent air leakage.

This has been discussed in great detail on AK, so I decided I will be using the Butyl/Toluene sealant that Vintage-AR sells on eBay. The listing was nowhere to be found, so I messaged him. Luckily, they just finished a new batch yesterday and it was listed today. I should be able to easily tackle this next week.

To get to the drivers, I set the Janszens aside and carefully laid the KLH cabinets on their back. To free the grille from the cabinet, I simply had to unscrew the KLH badge and the grilles easily slid out from their channels at the bottom of the cabinets. I learned the hard way on the first one that the badges can be unscrewed, rather than pried off. They are just name plates that were glued to flat head wood screws. Easy enough to regule it, I suppose.

At this point, I’m just waiting on the surround sealer to come in the mail and it really shouldn’t be a big deal to get these things working like they should.
 

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Pretty accurate. One point I'd make is that Villchur was probably more
the engineer than Kloss. Villchur designed AR's systems, though he
didn't invent acoustic suspension. There was prior art from RCA in
the late '30s, I believe, that caused him to abandon attempts to
patent the design. Kloss was brilliant at implementing the ideas.
He left AR with an agreement to market acoustic suspension systems,
which KLH did until he sold the company.
 
I don't have much useful info to add to that, but I can tell you that the August 1960 buyer's guide edition of Audio Magazine lists the MSRP of the Janszen 130 (pdf page 46) as $184 each. The same issue still lists the KLH One in walnut at $390, so presumably there wasn't much inflation between 1957 and 1960 (I also was not alive then).
Thanks for the input! Nice profile pic, too.

$184 in 1960 would put each of the Janszens at around $1,900 today. Accounting for inflation and sales tax (assuming they were sold in NJ where I got them), my pair would’ve cost what equates to nearly $13,000 now.

We’ve really come a long way in the last 65 years!
 
I've never heard these, but I have to wonder if the tweeter section of the enclosure would benefit from some sound absorbent foam to tame some of the presumably multitude of reflections you'll get from those parallel walls.

ETA: or is that felt glued to the walls?
 
Pretty accurate. One point I'd make is that Villchur was probably more
the engineer than Kloss. Villchur designed AR's systems, though he
didn't invent acoustic suspension. There was prior art from RCA in
the late '30s, I believe, that caused him to abandon attempts to
patent the design. Kloss was brilliant at implementing the ideas.
He left AR with an agreement to market acoustic suspension systems,
which KLH did until he sold the company.
Thanks, I’ll have to do some research on Villchur. I know that Kloss was pretty good with the marketing/business end of things, and the idea behind KLH was supposed to sell quality speakers at more doable prices. These early models appear as if they still would have been out of reach for the masses at the time, but later models, like the Model 6 for example, seem to have better embodied the value that they wanted the brand to provide. If I had to pick, I’d venture to guess that the OLA was really his breakthrough in bringing a more affordable speaker to mass market that still sounded pretty great (given the price).
 
I've never heard these, but I have to wonder if the tweeter section of the enclosure would benefit from some sound absorbent foam to tame some of the presumably multitude of reflections you'll get from those parallel walls.

ETA: or is that felt glued to the walls?
Not a bad idea - I’ll have to experiment with this. I remember seeing somewhere that the Janszens are supposed to sit up as far as possible in the enclosure, so I’m not sure if the walls would have a huge effect on them. With the size of these cabinets, I won’t have much leeway in terms of room placement, either. We shall see…
 
Thanks, I’ll have to do some research on Villchur. I know that Kloss was pretty good with the marketing/business end of things, and the idea behind KLH was supposed to sell quality speakers at more doable prices. These early models appear as if they still would have been out of reach for the masses at the time, but later models, like the Model 6 for example, seem to have better embodied the value that they wanted the brand to provide. If I had to pick, I’d venture to guess that the OLA was really his breakthrough in bringing a more affordable speaker to mass market that still sounded pretty great (given the price).
Yeah, I think the Six was the tipping point. It was half as much
as the Model Four, basically the same system. Doesn't look like
it took too long for them to figure things out. The Six came out
like nine months after the first models.
 
Just finished applying a thin coat of butyl sealant on the KLH surrounds. It went on easily and seems to have soaked in well to the cloth surrounds. I’m pretty impressed with this product and it appears that a lot of research and testing went into it. Not sure if he’s on AK, but hats off to Larry at vintage-ar for going through all the trouble of offering this stuff. It’s a niche market, but I can’t imagine the number of these old speakers this stuff has saved.

Instructions say that KLH surrounds sometimes may need a second coat after 24 hours. I have nothing to compare these to as a baseline, so I’ll give them a gentle nudge tomorrow to check the seal.

Honestly — After replacing a handful of foam surrounds in the past, I’m grateful that these cloth surrounds don’t require such an overhaul. This was so easy that it was… almost fun?
 

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Just finished applying a thin coat of butyl sealant on the KLH surrounds. It went on easily and seems to have soaked in well to the cloth surrounds. I’m pretty impressed with this product and it appears that a lot of research and testing went into it. Not sure if he’s on AK, but hats off to Larry at vintage-ar for going through all the trouble of offering this stuff. It’s a niche market, but I can’t imagine the number of these old speakers this stuff has saved.

Instructions say that KLH surrounds sometimes may need a second coat after 24 hours. I have nothing to compare these to as a baseline, so I’ll give them a gentle nudge tomorrow to check the seal.

Honestly — After replacing a handful of foam surrounds in the past, I’m grateful that these cloth surrounds don’t require such an overhaul. This was so easy that it was… almost fun?
I ended up applying 3 coats to my KLH 17's they were so porous when I started, I had to order a 2nd bottle.
 
Phase II: Preventative Restoration of Janszen Model 130 Internals

Ok, now for the more intimidating part. I will be taking a pair of functioning (rare) antique speakers and violating the universal law of “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I just hope my fixing won’t lead to any breaking.

What I do have is a nice digital multimeter, a soldering iron, a bit of patience, and a Mouser account. What I don’t have are the years of experience and the knowledge involving components of this age. I’ve repaired (with some guidance) and recapped plenty of stereo amps and speakers from the 70s, but many of these older caps/diodes/etc. just look foreign to me. There’s a few good threads surrounding these power supply boards, but many of them have more to do with troubleshooting repairs or focus on models with a different impedance or internals.

Luckily, what I got from these other threads was the schematic that (I think) corresponds to my serial numbers (see pic). Thanks to @RxDx for sharing these.

What I know as of now:
  • These are the 16ohm versions (they also sold them in 8ohm)
  • Serial numbers are 7257 & 7271
  • No troubleshooting is needed, but I really need a better understanding of what I should be replacing and what the modern equivalents are.
  • None of the original components have completely failed in either of the units, as far as I can tell. No visual signs of any trouble or foul play.
  • A lot of these parts are long past their anticipated service life and have since been “running on borrowed time”. Replacing these components should reduce the chances of future damage to parts that are difficult/impossible to obtain.
  • Sound quality should also improve with new components that work within their specified range. There’s no way all of the old parts still do — at the very least not the selenium capacitors.
 

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I ended up applying 3 coats to my KLH 17's they were so porous when I started, I had to order a 2nd bottle.
I feared this would be the case, so I ordered a full ounce of sealant (largest of the two sizes offered). The first coat ended up using a little under half of it, but I think I should have enough to get the job done. Here’s hoping!
 
Phase II - Continued

Please forgive me in advance for what are probably some pretty elementary questions… They are listed below in red text.

As far as I can tell, this is the correct schematic for my particular model:
08DFD7E0-814C-4CB0-8E32-26FDB722EED5.jpeg

My convoluted thought process is/was as follows:

  1. I can’t decide whether or not there’s any benefit to replacing the smaller carbon resistors (R-3 through R-16). I’ve heard that film resistors can be quieter, but not sure if it’s worth swapping these out or not. Is there a benefit? If so, should I replace them all, or just a certain few?
  2. The way R-1 was installed confuses me a bit. C4GJ 6ohm — gray cylinder, appears to be wired in parallel with C4GJ 3 ohm. I calculated that the two of them together could represent R-1. Should I replace them? If so, again with two separate resistors, or just a single one? R-1 is listed as 2ohm, 5w.
  3. I’m intrigued by R-2, as it looks like they just used a thicker wire to provide 14ohms of resistance. I assume it’s best to just leave it be, but who knows.
  4. For F-1, they used a slow blow fuse. I’ve heard that it’s better to use a fast blow fuse, so I assume one still rated for 1/8 amp would still be fine, no?
  5. There are the old pots (P-1) that control the output level, but I think they’d be fine with just some deoxit. I don’t want to mess with these if I don’t have to.
  6. Same goes for the transformers T-1 & T-2. Unobtanium and working fine as they are.
  7. Is it worth replacing T-1 (the choke)? The schematic says “3.0 MH”. I’d like to leave these alone if I can.
  8. As for the caps, I’m unsure what I need to order. Can C-1 simply be replaced with non polar 20uF electrolytic capacitors? If so, what voltage rating should I use? The existing caps themselves say “20MFD.75W” (see pic) and the schematic just lists C-1 as 20MFD. I’m used to seeing these sold with a voltage rating, rather than wattage.
  9. 0047 2kv — green disc, I believe C-2 on the schematic. I think maybe a polar ceramic cap? Is it worth replacing? If so, with what?
  10. 61-1502 — has “+” marking, indicating polarity. I believe this is S-1. Schematic says “75 PLATE 1.5 MA”. I’ve seen talk of stacks in a few of the other threads, but I’m not sure I understand what’s going on. Possibly some sort of diode? Any suggestions on a suitable modern equivalent?
Many thanks in advance. :angel:
 
If the speakers are working, I'd target the weakest links in the electronic
chain first- and maybe only- which are typically the bigger paper caps.

Unless you see +/- marks they are probably non-polar. Use at least the
same voltage. I don't think you need to go higher.

Get as many other schematics of these as you can and see what the
specs are. Might give you clues about markings, etc.

Janszen is still around. They appear to know enough about these to
repair them.
 
If the speakers are working, I'd target the weakest links in the electronic
chain first- and maybe only- which are typically the bigger paper caps.

Unless you see +/- marks they are probably non-polar. Use at least the
same voltage. I don't think you need to go higher.

Get as many other schematics of these as you can and see what the
specs are. Might give you clues about markings, etc.

Janszen is still around. They appear to know enough about these to
repair them. Would a polypropylene cap work for this? I can’t find anything regarding a DC rating for these, but I don’t think they are subject to the full 1000V. I can buy 20uF crossover caps from Parts Express at either 250V or 400V DC ratings. Do you think choosing the 400V will be sufficient, or overkill? It’s not an electrolytic cap, so I’m not sure if too high of a rating would be a bad thing.

My obsessive searching around has led me to believe that these selenium stacks (S-1) are usually what tends to be the first to fail in these circuits. I’ve seen posts where David Janszen (he’s also an AK member, as it turns out!) suggests replacing S-1 with three 1N4007 rectifier diodes wired in parallel.

What confuses me is that I’ve also seen him mention that doing so requires the 5k ohm potentiometers to be replaced with 50k ohm pots, and an additional 5kohm/0.5w resistor placed in series with the AC. This is per the Janszen website, where he’s actually discussing the repair of a speaker other than the 130. With all of the slight differences in serial numbers, impedance, etc., I don’t know if these additional modifications are needed on mine if I replace my stacks with 1N4007 diodes.

On a side note, my search has led me to some interesting findings about Arthur Janszen’s work, as well as the work that David Janszen continues to do today. Arthur was a genius when it came to these designs and he worked all over the place with the US military, KLH, AR, and others. The Janszen website has a nice write up about him.

David continues to sell some super high-end, built-to-order speakers over in Ohio. If I ever have the means to buy a new speaker in this price range, I think his have jumped to the top of my list. I’d like to think that the new speakers from Janszen will really start to take off if people realize they’re still around and producing some fantastic speakers. I read that he’s found a way to seamlessly pair electrostatics and woofers in sealed enclosures in such a way that they aren’t hindered by room placement or beaming, etc. Basically, they’re selling a prettier, less sensitive version of what Martin Logan is making. It’s seriously worth checking out the Valentina speaker on their site. He’s also making a modern version of the KLH Model Nine (called the Nine.Five) that incorporates six woofers into each panel. Very interesting stuff and I’d love to hear them someday.

I’ll have to see if I can get in touch with David Janszen. @ztatic, if you happen to see this thread, would you be able to clarify on the caps/diodes? These are some great examples of the Model 130 and I’d love to preserve them as well as I possibly can.
 
On a side note, the KLH surrounds seem to be quite content with just one coat of the sealer. I have more if I need it, but these now seem to be sealed in pretty well. Can’t wait to hear the difference.
 
Well, another good story ruined by an eyewitness... I'd definitely go with
his recommendations. And quiz him about the parts you aren't clear on.

I also only needed one coat of sealer on mine. I didn't detect much difference
before and after. I don't think they were that dry initially.
 
Well, another good story ruined by an eyewitness... I'd definitely go with
his recommendations. And quiz him about the parts you aren't clear on.

I also only needed one coat of sealer on mine. I didn't detect much difference
before and after. I don't think they were that dry initially.
I only heard them briefly at the seller’s house, so at this point, my brain will probably trick itself into thinking they’ve improved, even if they didn’t. Also, the sealer was a little over $30, so that’s all the more reason for the sugar pill to taste a little sweeter. Worst case scenario, I’ll tell myself that it’ll help to preserve/protect them. As we all know, this hobby is one of the best ways other than joining a pharmaceutical trial to experience the placebo effect…

Interestingly enough, I couldn’t find an email address, so I called the phone number listed on the website and David Janszen himself actually picked up. Talk about customer service! I made sure to do as much research as I could before calling as to not waste anyone’s time. As it turns out, David was happy to help and we spent nearly 20 minutes on the phone discussing these old speakers. At this point, I’m fairly confident that I have what I need to get the job done correctly.

Highlights from our discussion:
  • The 20uF cap can be replaced with a bi-polar polypropylene cap and doesn’t need a super high voltage rating. I ended up going with a Dayton Precision Audio cap rated for 250V (the smallest rating I could find at this capacitance value). These are the types of big, radial caps that you often can see in crossovers. I was told that 250V should be more than enough.
  • To replace the selenium stacks, you can use three of the 1N4007 wired in series. David said to be careful about the polarity of the diodes as the polarity in the drawings was often mixed up by accident. These drawings were in the early days of solid state, so a lot of the designers were still getting used to things being directional.
  • If one does carry out this replacement, you must also replace P-1 with a 50kohm pot (David says linear is fine) and add a 5kohm/0.5w resistor in series with the AC. I’ll try to post an updated schematic and include this info on the drawing. For those of us who don’t have an intuitive understanding of circuit design, I think this might be helpful to some in the future.
 
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