knob brites
- Thread starter Br1ck
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Try JTNS products. jtnsproducts@aol.com talk to Anthony. I bought some from him for my Scott. I know he make them for Fishers also.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
tube-a-lou
Addicted Member
I just got a set off ebay, there from a guy in California and there made better than
the JTNSproducts, heavy duty brass caps his nane is missiontimes on ebay.
the JTNSproducts, heavy duty brass caps his nane is missiontimes on ebay.
the_nines
Lunatic Member
+1
I've had experience with both sellers.
This is the product from JTNS, not deep enough, doesn't make contact with the knob:
This is the product from "missiontimes". Perfect. The only bummer is that they are not dimpled, no big deal. A fine tipped "Sharpie" marker does the trick:
......
RUmad
Super Member
I appreciate you guys putting this up on AK. Just went to buy from jtns on 'bonanza'. Shipping was quoted at $2.50, went to check out and it jumped to $20! For 8 brass knobs! No thanks. Went to that auction site and got the kit from missiontime. I'd rather have 6 knob caps missing than pay 20 bucks to ship
Alan
Alan
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20 bucks shipping for what amounts to 8 brass washers? You could do that in a USPS bubble mailer for 6 bucks no sweat.
yeah yeah, they're not "just washers" but for shipping purposes they kind of are. Put each one in a *ahem* "coin bag" for protection and you're golden.
yeah yeah, they're not "just washers" but for shipping purposes they kind of are. Put each one in a *ahem* "coin bag" for protection and you're golden.
JTNS brass knobs were terrible. did not fit right and quality was a big issue. big disappointment. look cheesy on the Fisher. I returned them all.
They also selling it on that site under the name bizcoup.
bought a set from "missiontimes" on that site.. well made, high quality, fitted just like the original.
strongly recommended. the seller was very easy to deal with
They also selling it on that site under the name bizcoup.
bought a set from "missiontimes" on that site.. well made, high quality, fitted just like the original.
strongly recommended. the seller was very easy to deal with
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sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
If you ever run into that sort of thing again on shipping, contact the seller. I had the same thing with some op amps, where the website was set up to put a $10 flat rate for EACH of three items - one email later, they'd set up a special paypal transaction to fix that.
$10 may seem like a lot, but it was int'l priority service ... I can live with that, but no way was I about to spring for triple that! Not sure how that would work with any other payment option, but most will take PP nowadays even if it's not listed as an option.
PS ... another trick with knobs is to drill a small dimple and a touch with a sharpie for contrast. Doesn't wear off that way during use.
$10 may seem like a lot, but it was int'l priority service ... I can live with that, but no way was I about to spring for triple that! Not sure how that would work with any other payment option, but most will take PP nowadays even if it's not listed as an option.
PS ... another trick with knobs is to drill a small dimple and a touch with a sharpie for contrast. Doesn't wear off that way during use.
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Couldn't wait ... I mean ... what was it gonna do, explode if you didn't git er done?
I know ... it would have been YOU exploding, knowing it needed doing. I can empathize with that, eh. <G>
Another trick I've tried with decent results is to make my own inserts. Couple layers of metal duct tape carefully cut to shape, then chuck the knob up in a drill and give it a spin against some sandpaper. Play with the speed and grit till you get it right. Work it with some Never Dull wadding to polish it up and done.
Here's an old silly radio I restored that way as most of the inserts were gone.
The metal tape actually forms quite nicely if you're careful. I'm thinking it could even work with the lip around the Fisher knobs, but ... wrong color, so forget I mentioned it!
I know ... it would have been YOU exploding, knowing it needed doing. I can empathize with that, eh. <G>
Another trick I've tried with decent results is to make my own inserts. Couple layers of metal duct tape carefully cut to shape, then chuck the knob up in a drill and give it a spin against some sandpaper. Play with the speed and grit till you get it right. Work it with some Never Dull wadding to polish it up and done.
Here's an old silly radio I restored that way as most of the inserts were gone.
The metal tape actually forms quite nicely if you're careful. I'm thinking it could even work with the lip around the Fisher knobs, but ... wrong color, so forget I mentioned it!
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Those Siltronix rigs use a fairly commonly available knob at least. I'd be surprised if you couldn't buy boxes of them new if you needed to. I had a 1011C once upon a time. Sent it off for a problem that I didn't know how to repair at the time, and the guy working on it had one of the speed nuts that held the bottom in place fall and short something out. He couldn't fix it, so he sent it somewhere else. Then the shop closed and I had no idea where my radio got to. Never did get it back. That was part of my impetus to learn how to work on my own gear, so I guess it was a worthwhile lesson.
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Hijack! Hijack! <G>
This one was a real basket case when I got it. Even the case was crunched and munched. Matching the original finish was a challenge but I think I done good. Hardest part was freeing up the vernier knob, which had frozen solid. Smooth as glass now, but not easy getting there.
Lil thang has some real magic on sideband too. Got it together, fired it up, tuned it, and did some radio checks with a non-powered D104 mike - happened to mention that I figured to tweak it some more, and had comebacks from all over the world saying "DON'T TOUCH IT!" So, like ... I haven't. <G>
I remember mine had a lot of drift issues. May have been a good performer but it wouldn't stay in one place long enough to know. I remember their VFO's having serious drift problems as well unless you left it on to keep it warm. Maybe I didn't have it on long enough to heat soak, or it may have had other problems. This was probably 20 years ago, I just don't remember now. I do recall it wasn't amazing on AM unless you were real careful. Wasn't plate modulated and it had no limiter so it was extremely easy to over-modulate and make it sound absolutely dreadful.
I've got other gear that "everyone" says is bad on SSB. You never hear people talk about the wonders of the Tram D201A as an SSB rig, but mine works fine that way. I don't use the VFO for SSB, its not stable enough, but it works fine on the rocks. I managed to get every channel on frequency, though I did have to change the padder caps on some of them to pull slightly wonky crystals into line.
ok, unhijack
