Lambda driver-based sub build.
- Thread starter Brett a
- Start date
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
Love your project and the Yung amp is an excellent choice. I have two SD300's and I'm sold on class D plate amps.
Please tell your significant other that a Jasper Jig would make a nice Christmas present. :yes:
Please tell your significant other that a Jasper Jig would make a nice Christmas present. :yes:
Brett a
~◦●○o0o○●◦~
Yes, your multiplication of fractions leaves something to be desired. 0.07 ft³.
Well, I have other talents fortunately. (and in my defense, it was 12:42am when I posted that (about 3 hours past my usual bedtime. (if I'm doing the clock math correctly)).
0.07 is good news; low enough to afford more bracing should i decide to add it.
Brett a
~◦●○o0o○●◦~
wait..think of it like cutting a rectangular cake (im in foodservice} a 2" edge would cut into 8 quarters. then the perpendicular cuts would be 3 quarters.
if this were a cake (a very small one) it would yeild twenty four 1/4 x 1/4" squares
Brett a
~◦●○o0o○●◦~
Ok. Let's move on, shall we?
So here's the bracing. I made one cradle the woofer magnet. I cut them all to go in with some pressure; i had to coax them into position with a rubber mallet.
I also aligned them at certain measured spots so I can duplicate the bracing exactly the same in the other box (Mingus).
The fore/aft brace is held in place by a little post. The rear cover has a fifth screw that mates the panel to the brace. And the vertical and horizontal braces are glued together other where they cross.
(Please don't judge me for my novice glue amounts. I am a novice after all.)
Voila!
I centered the terminal plate on the back and cut the hole so that I can flip it 180 degrees if i want to change it's orientation.
So here's the bracing. I made one cradle the woofer magnet. I cut them all to go in with some pressure; i had to coax them into position with a rubber mallet.
I also aligned them at certain measured spots so I can duplicate the bracing exactly the same in the other box (Mingus).
The fore/aft brace is held in place by a little post. The rear cover has a fifth screw that mates the panel to the brace. And the vertical and horizontal braces are glued together other where they cross.
(Please don't judge me for my novice glue amounts. I am a novice after all.)
Voila!
I centered the terminal plate on the back and cut the hole so that I can flip it 180 degrees if i want to change it's orientation.
Last edited:
dnewma04
The Healer
Yes, this...
Brett a
~◦●○o0o○●◦~
Forgive me; my attention is a bit divided this morning.
Well, I only had about 30 minutes to actually play it after stuffing and wiring this morning, it wasn't enough to really have any opinions to stand on.
However, here are a few initial thoughts I was left with:
All of them are variable with adjustments and differences in recordings.
- I was initially surprised at how little bass energy it produced. At one point after turning it off to change cables I actually had to check that it wasn't somehow still making music. (It wasn't).
- I can appreciate what so many people have said about how difficult it can be to get a sub to blend with your mains; it's definitely clogging up the soundstage and creating a misplaced center of gravity in the middle.
- It's going to take me a while to learn the controls and how they affect the performance; each one can make the sub more present or less present in the mix. (level, frequency cut off and phasing).
- I caught one or two rays of hope and promise. I think I'll be able to dial it in eventually; especially once I get the second one home and can place them near each main.
I'm not sure when I'll be able to finish the second one; it may not be for a couple days.
I'd focus more on evaluating how your cabinet performs as you turn it up for now. The difference between one and a pair, both in getting them to integrate and in the final result, is a big one.
However, if you have the crossover set to 50Hz+ and you can't get it to completely overwhelm your mains, you may have a level mismatch problem and you may need to attenuate the input to your main amp or something.
Also, I would +1 on keeping them a good distance from the mains or even way out on the sidewalls closer to you, but I may be saying that a little too often now
.
However, if you have the crossover set to 50Hz+ and you can't get it to completely overwhelm your mains, you may have a level mismatch problem and you may need to attenuate the input to your main amp or something.
Also, I would +1 on keeping them a good distance from the mains or even way out on the sidewalls closer to you, but I may be saying that a little too often now
.
Brett a
~◦●○o0o○●◦~
No, I can certainly turn it up to the point where it's big and stupid. The crossover knob has the strongest affect in this regard.
On the topic of placement; when you say they might not be good near the mains, why not?
Because your mains are mostly producing a longitudinal traveling wave so the speaker is mostly in command of directivity and direct vs. diffuse sound field. A subwoofer is mostly (unless you have a monstrous room) pressurizing the room so the room is in command of the response and proper placement will be dictated by the room.
Well I just keep finding the Harman paper, which is fine but not what I was thinking of. In any case, several studies point to the midpoints of two opposing walls being the optimum location for two subwoofers. It gets a little more complicated when you're not listening in the middle of the room, and also if there's a ton of overlap with the mains, so it's still just a starting point.