Capt, I would recommend you join the Hoffman forum -- http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php -- and start a thread there similar to this one. It's a guitar amp-specific site and the guys that hang out there are very experienced amp techs and builders who know Fender amps backwards and forwards. They will not only be able to help with diagnosing the no sound issue , but also advise you on the repairs/mods that have been done and whether they need to be revised, and what else should be done to keep this very nice amp working for your friend's son (who really lucked out on this deal!) . (BTW, this referral to another forum should not be construed as any kind of a knock on AK).

Dang. The kid really scored. Point to point wired Twin Reverb is the end of the line for a lot of musicians. Jerry Garcia used these in the legendary '72 run. Keep at it. This is really worth fixing. Robert


Check the items circled in red. Sorry as I thought the 12AX7 was the AF amp/phase inverter but it is actually (according to the schematic) the 12AT7 tube so try inputting a signal at pin #2 of the 12AT7 tube (circled in yellow)View attachment 661148 .
Assuming you know that new looking choke on top is in a spot that should normally be empty, then it is not a replacement for TR2 on the schematic? Where is TR2 supposed to be located, underneath?
The schematic is kinda weird on the power supply but it clearly has multiple stages of caps/choke/resistors/caps to clean up the B+. Maybe that choke was added by someone who didn't understand that electrolytics go bad and cause hum and should be replaced. Shoot, my dad did the same thing to a Scott receiver when it developed some hum. He was not a technician but knew enough to know that the hum was from the AC line so he added caps to the PS instead of replacing the originals. A choke would perform a similar function.
That's what I thought maybe it should be using a 5AR4 Rectifier tube, but the original tube placement chart inside the cabinet shows a 5U4GB in the rectifier spot on this amp...as someone else mentioned, it would be a very good idea to replace the electroytic caps in the power supply before running the amp too much longer. circuit design in Fender amps ran components very close to the maximum tolerances. check out the chassis layout and schematic from the fender amp field guide site. http://www.thevintagesound.com/ffg/schem/deluxe_reverb_ab763_schem.gif, and http://www.thevintagesound.com/ffg/schem/deluxe_reverb_ab763_layout.gif
the correct rectifier is a 5AR4/GZ34, not a 5U4. The 5U4 does not have a cathode and probably cannot supply adequate current for the power supply.
I was thinking of trying to get the capacitor kit from over at AES for this amplifier (its only $25+ Shipping) and then replace all of the electrolytic caps in this amp including the ones that are missing according to the layout chart.I don;t believe any Fender Deluxe or Deluxe Reverb ever used a 5U4 as rectifier. The earlier Deluxe models did use a 5Y3 (also non-cathode rectifier), but all reverb models used the 5AR43/GZ34 rectifier tube. I suggest checking the schematics carefully to see what else may have been changed. Good Luck !

From what I can see on the physical unit vs. the layout chart, the wires on the replacement transformer are attached to the same spot as the original transformer was but whether or not they got the right sized transformer is another thing...That non-original looking transformer is for the reverb circuit. You should be able to trace out and follow the leads to verify with the schematic. Exact replacements are available and really work the best, IMO.
I suggest posting this topic on the Fender Amp forum - fenderforum.com, I believe. Lots of experts on amp repair there.
The reverb transformer is actually between the third and fourth preamp tubes. It can be seen in the first photo in this thread.That non-original looking transformer is for the reverb circuit. You should be able to trace out and follow the leads to verify with the schematic. Exact replacements are available and really work the best, IMO.

Well that's good news. Get those caps replaced and it'll be reliable for some time to come. You might want to check resistor values too, they drift.