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Looking for info/opinion on 1964 Klipschhorns

H

H.Huester

Active Member
There's a set of Khorns, 1964, model "B", walnut, "A" crossover for sale in the local area - $2,700.
They are in good cosmetic shape and look to be all original.

Have been wanting to spend some time with Klipschorns for a while now.
But I don't know how this year model racks and stacks, and can't really find anything online except "some people prefer the earlier ones".
Could you please provide some feedback on this year/model of Khorn.
Are they worthwhile? Are later ones "better"? Are there known problems with this year/model? Known mods/improvements?
Anything else you can help with is sincerely appreciated.

Thanks for your help!
H.Huester
 
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If the cosmetics are very good, and they are reasonably close enough to get home without too much effort—and, more importantly, you have a proper room for them (two solid corners, a big room with ceilings at least 8 1/2’ tall)—get them. This is an excellent price nowadays.

You can always upgrade/modify the innards, as needed. There are plenty of us here who have been down that long road to assist in that regard. Good luck.
 
Pretty much agree with above except I wouldn’t make not having 8 1/2 foot ceilings a deal breaker. Although higher the better, 8 foot ceilings work. As far as age, mine are 1972 with newer parts and sound great in larger room with good corners and 8 foot ceiling.
 
Also if you need parts like new drivers or most likely new crossovers (or at the least replace the caps if they are orignal), Crites Audio is the go to store to update, and or modify Klipsch speakers.
 
I recommend at least 8 1/2’ ceilings because that’s what PWK demanded (8 1/2’ is exactly twice the height of Klipschorns). My ceilings are 10’. (I’ve heard Klipschorns sound horrible and constricted in a 7’-tall room.) Taller, at least to a point, is better, as it allows the music to expand into the room and the soundstage to reach its full potential in terms of scale (D + W + H). IIRC, PWK also recommended that there be at least 12’ between the L and R speakers. This sense of live scale/soundstage, among others (dynamics, too), is a major benefit/attribute of Klipschorns.
 
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Just get them, try them out, if you don't like them, just flip'em. You will not loose money on them.
Yes, the new ones will sound "better" but are also way more money. There are so many updates/upgrades for them, that you can basically get any sound you want out of them. Replacing the crossovers, the drivers, even the horns. Then there is cabinet bracing....

You do need corners to pop them into, they should be several feet apart from each other.
 
Congratulations!

When you’re ready to consider your options, consult the Klipsch Hoard. Many of us have spent a lot of money and time “upgrading” our vintage Klipschorns.
 
H.Huester said:
Swung by yesterday to check them out. I can work with these - I pick them up tomorrow. The cabinets need to be spiffed up a touch, but I got a full wood shop, and am retired - so plenty of time to make them shine. Thanks everyone for your input.
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Congratulations! Keep us updated on your progress.
Bushikan said:
Congratulations!

When you’re ready to consider your options, consult the Klipsch Hoard. Many of us have spent a lot of money and time “upgrading” our vintage Klipschorns.
Click to expand...

That’s right, including me. : )
 
jayvis said:
According to most on this forum, you've basically spent your money on cabinets. ;)
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That’s how I felt, when—after I’d purchased a mismatched AA set from the 1960s and ‘70s (one with a torn woofer)—I was told by nearly everyone (including the folks at Klipsch) to upgrade just about everything.

I did. I’ve gone through basically three iterations with my Klipschorns. And I’ve spent a lot of money and time and had a lot of conversations with Al Klappenberg, Greg, now at Volti Audio, @Daveintn, the Crites family, the great folks at Audio Classics, and a few people at Klipsch.

My advice, @H.Huester, is that you simply make sure everything works; upgrade the caps; securely seal the speakers to the corners (with pipe insulation and wide rubber garage door seal); and enjoy them for a few months before you make any major decisions regarding upgrading.

Use your own ears. Then bend our ears. I’ve discovered that horns love tubes. Others prefer the slam of high-powered SS. (I purchased and replaced every component (horns, drivers, crossovers) at least once. The eventual changes I settled on are in my profile; I returned most components back to stock or “upgraded” stock.) You’ll find your own way eventually.

Good luck! Have a good time! They are damn fun speakers—what PWK called “a tinker’s dream.”
 
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Well the crossover isn't going to protect the tweeter as well as later crossovers and the mid driver is obsolete and the woofer is dynamically challenged. So I Wouldn't want an amp rated at more than 50 watts and would want the amp to have Power Guard to protect the speaker.

So that means a Mcintosh MC 502, to prevent clipping of any sort. . A 752 and 754 have to much power capability for that period of Kornerhorns. The 502 is a direct couled amp and is very smooth sounding for that time period of solid state amplifiers. I preferred MC 275 tube amps at that time but you can easily over drive the tweeter and midrange with that tube amp as it can put out close to 100 watts when clipping at 2% distortion. But average folks seldom use over 2 watts a great majority of the time when listening. . Remember the tweeter is only rated at 5 watts and the mid driver 30 to 60 watts depending on which Atlas diaphragm is in the driver. If it has Eminence woofers 75 watts should be no problem. Don't plan on sitting close to corner horns as they can be a very forward sounding speaker with predominant mids and lower highs. Make sure the speaker is sealed tightly into a corner to prevent the lower midrange sounds produced by the woofer from being compromised. I much preferred the 3 speaker system with a Cornwall in the center to get further away from the corner horns being on a long wall to prevent a hole in the middle from appearing while not getting more than 20 to 30 degrees off axis from the center line of the Klipschorns. Being on axis can be a bit over whelming to me at any distance. I want to hear the newest Khorns with the new driver, mid horn and tweeter. I know the Cornwall, Forte'. Hersey, and La Scala have improved a bunch lately. Incidentally the B style cabinet has always been my favorite and remains so today. I really liked the Rosewood and Ebony versions being made in the late 60's thru middle 70's.
 
twiiii said:
Well the crossover isn't going to protect the tweeter as well as later crossovers and the mid driver is obsolete and the woofer is dynamically challenged. So I Wouldn't want an amp rated at more than 50 watts and would want the amp to have Power Guard to protect the speaker.

So that means a Mcintosh MC 502, to prevent clipping of any sort. . A 752 and 754 have to much power capability for that period of Kornerhorns. The 502 is a direct couled amp and is very smooth sounding for that time period of solid state amplifiers. I preferred MC 275 tube amps at that time but you can easily over drive the tweeter and midrange with that tube amp as it can put out close to 100 watts when clipping at 2% distortion. But average folks seldom use over 2 watts a great majority of the time when listening. . Remember the tweeter is only rated at 5 watts and the mid driver 30 to 60 watts depending on which Atlas diaphragm is in the driver. If it has Eminence woofers 75 watts should be no problem. Don't plan on sitting close to corner horns as they can be a very forward sounding speaker with predominant mids and lower highs. Make sure the speaker is sealed tightly into a corner to prevent the lower midrange sounds produced by the woofer from being compromised. I much preferred the 3 speaker system with a Cornwall in the center to get further away from the corner horns being on a long wall to prevent a hole in the middle from appearing while not getting more than 20 to 30 degrees off axis from the center line of the Klipschorns. Being on axis can be a bit over whelming to me at any distance. I want to hear the newest Khorns with the new driver, mid horn and tweeter. I know the Cornwall, Forte'. Hersey, and La Scala have improved a bunch lately. Incidentally the B style cabinet has always been my favorite and remains so today. I really liked the Rosewood and Ebony versions being made in the late 60's thru middle 70's.
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The first amp I used on my Klipschorns was a McIntosh MC502. Worked very well—especially for SS.
 
Great info - thank you everyone - SINCERELY.

I've reassembled them, checked all the connections, plugged them in, and they play fine.
I'm using a Yamaha C-4/M-4 combo, because it's what I have on hand.

I've already:
1) Opened the base bin door, inspected the inside, and sealed the door with new material.
2) Inventoried the components - they appear to be all original.
3) Cleaned up years of dust/grime - look better already.
4) Inspected the cabinetry for condition - sound and well sealed.
5) Plugged them in and played them - sound like they should

Plan from here on out is to:
1) Seal the cabinets into the corners.
2) Live with them for a few months, while I...
3) Research cabinet veneer, grill material, component upgrade paths, and front end options.
4) Enjoy them while I figure out what (if anything) I want to do with them - keep as is, upgrade, or fix them up cosmetically and move them on.

I currently have them in the corners of a 12'x12' room because that's where the rest of the gear is, and it's a chance to easily compare them to the AR-90s that I'm using primarily. There's a world of difference between those two approaches!

Want to move them into the living room that's 19' x 29' with a ceiling that starts at 8' (at short end), raises to 12' in the center of the room, and drops back down to 8' at the other end (29' later). Would need to make false corner for one speaker, as that corner of the room is made of windows. Have read a lot online about helpful/preferred room size and found way too much conflicting info. Is 19' too wide for distance between speakers? If I make a false corner for one speaker - do I need to do the same for the other? Any thoughts from you all?

Thanks again for everyone's input !!!!
HH
 
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One false corner is fine. You only need to go as high as the bass bin. They’ll much prefer the bigger room.
 
Corner sealed them tonight - please let me know if I did that correct or not.
initial listen...seems to have ratcheted up the bass a notch.
Is it possible that corner sealing also helped richen up the mids a bit?
Looks like placing them on a platform (between the speakers and the carpet) is next to help the bass even more.

Now that I'm at this point, I'll wrap up this thread, and start others to address questions/issues as they come up.
Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE for your help/inputs getting me to this point.
Sincerely,
HH
 

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H.Huester said:
Corner sealed them tonight - please let me know if I did that correct or not.
initial listen...seems to have ratcheted up the bass a notch.
Is it possible that corner sealing also helped richen up the mids a bit?
Looks like placing them on a platform (between the speakers and the carpet) is next to help the bass even more.

Now that I'm at this point, I'll wrap up this thread, and start others to address questions/issues as they come up.
Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE for your help/inputs getting me to this point.
Sincerely,
HH
Click to expand...

Thank you for posting. Absolute works of art!!!
 
H.Huester said:
Corner sealed them tonight - please let me know if I did that correct or not.
initial listen...seems to have ratcheted up the bass a notch.
Is it possible that corner sealing also helped richen up the mids a bit?
Looks like placing them on a platform (between the speakers and the carpet) is next to help the bass even more.

Now that I'm at this point, I'll wrap up this thread, and start others to address questions/issues as they come up.
Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE for your help/inputs getting me to this point.
Sincerely,
HH
Click to expand...
next steps:
replace the capacitors, they're over 60 years old and are tired. while you're at it, replace the washers between the mid drivers and mid horns. They dry out over time and cause sibilance and distortion.
 
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