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MAGNAVOX 294H Help

slowriver

Member
Hello,


I just bought one of these in fairly good shape. I want to get her back to good working order. Below are some things that I have questions about if anyone can help.

-How exactly do you get the turner chassis out?
-Is there a schematic for the tuner circuit somewhere out there. I found the 142CC amp section
-The turner capacitor has become unwound. How much of a PITA is this to fix?
-Does anyone sell a remade front plexi glass panel for these. My writing is coming off.
-A Good source for a magic eye tube. Not ebay please. I quit them years ago.
 
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Your wish is my command. Please see attached. She is quite dirty. I have the amp out and is "somewhat" clean.
 

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I have a few schematics for Magnavox but just not for your model. The amp is a 20 watt mono. Easy stuff to work on. The tuner looks like it has bolts underneath and it should just slide right out. Don't forget to remove the knobs.
 
should be screws running through the flange on the tuner chassis that holds it in place. Looks like one in the rear corner, not sure if its got 2 or 4. I think you may need to remove the knobs and slide the chassis out to the back. The faceplate should have some small screws holding it to the cabinet. I have one of those tuner chassis and it has a few small holes around the edge where screws held it in place.

Dial string isn't a big deal, just kind of annoying. If you've got a chassis number someone may be able to dig up the Sams to get the re-stringing instructions.
 
should be screws running through the flange on the tuner chassis that holds it in place. Looks like one in the rear corner, not sure if its got 2 or 4. I think you may need to remove the knobs and slide the chassis out to the back. The faceplate should have some small screws holding it to the cabinet. I have one of those tuner chassis and it has a few small holes around the edge where screws held it in place.

Dial string isn't a big deal, just kind of annoying. If you've got a chassis number someone may be able to dig up the Sams to get the re-stringing instructions.



If I'm reading the right numbers I've got 52 02 AAX.
 
Ok this is probably a REALLY stupid question, but while I have decent tube and electronic experience, this is my first exposure to a console like this.

Does this unit turn off? I can't seem to find out how to turn it off.
 
My similar tuner has the power switch built into the bass control. It turns off though, unless the power switch has been bypassed for some reason.
 
Thanks for that. I believe this unit is completely un-molested. I think I even know the story of it without actually knowing it.

I think it was bought back in 57 - 58 and the person played it for a few years then it just died. Person calls the local TV repair guy and says "my radio died". Repair guy looks at it and says "your rectifier tube is dead". Person buys a replacement tube somewhere around 1962 judging by the single non Magnavox branded RCA tube with MV date code. Some years later the radio dies again, and person calls the repair guy and says "my radio died". Repair man comes over and person says "this is the second time it has died, could you please give it a once over and let me know what it needs" repair guy says "yes sir, you need another 5Y3 and you also have a bad 6E5 and that is why you green light is getting so dim for the tuner and here is the price" Person says something that would maybe be "that's a lot of money, (or) well now they have these transistor radios and I could probably just buy one of those and not have to mess with this again", and the old 142 went into the basement. By now its mid to late 60's possibly 70's even.


Some years later child talks to person (mom or dad) and says "I remember this, I had good memories of this as a kid". Child says to elderly parent "can I have this", and parent says "sure, BUT do not turn it on because it doesn't work anymore"? Child says "oh I won't it just looks cool and I'm going to use it as furniture". Parent says "Ok, well take it, and oh here is the back cover for it. The screws went missing years ago from when we were considering getting it repaired, but never did". Child takes unit home gets some packing tape to hold the back cover on, puts it in the corner and has a nice conversational piece for years. Through the years child keep hearing this "thunk". They discover that the packing tape holding the back cover in place is getting weak and every so often the back falls to the ground. Child says "enough of this crap, the radio is up against the wall so nobody can see inside", and the back cover gets chucked.


Flash forward to yesterday my wife and I pull up to the sellers house and notice a realtor for sale sign. We grab the radio from the nice lady who is approximately mid to late 50's and pay her. My wife and I pull the 142 out of the car and start to go through and clean it. In the cleaning process I find shirt buttons and even those old stamps the grocery stores would give you that you saved to put in booklets that you could collect until you had enough to trade for a free item. All sorts of history inside.

During the cleaning process I pull off two strips of old packing tape from the cabinet at the rear bottom. I clean the major layers of dust off the amp, take a picture of the missing tube's socket to find that the single missing tube is a 5Y3. While I'm cleaning the tuner area I see this octal socket hanging from some wires and think to myself "what the heck is that for"? Later during some internet searching I come to find out that some people have this green "light bulb" glowing on the front of their tuner station indicator. I go outside and look at the front of mine and sure enough there is a hole where a "bulb" should be. "I wonder what the part number is"? Back to the internet where I find a lucky picture where someone shot a picture of their tuner chassis that unintentionally captures the part number of the bulb....6E5...."hmmm that kinda sounds like a tube number" back to the internet. "Holy *$%^$*% it is a tube". Wow a "magic eye" tube. "How freaking cool is that"?


Well that's my story. No, that's not for real but its plausible and reads nice in my head. Also when I took the amp chassis out I had to use a screwdriver to pry a couple connectors off of their sockets, so no this thing is mostly untouched and very close to factory correct.
 
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That should be running dual rectifiers. Looks like the existing one a 5U4GB. A single 5U4GB is reasonably close as a sub for a pair of 5Y3. My AMP-150 runs dual 5U4GB. Its basically this amp plus a crossover and a single 6v6 for the treble channel.

The trick with dual rectifiers is that if one is weak, the other will try and carry the load and it will just get beat to death. I'd go for a pair of fresh ones if you have one bad/missing.

6E5's are available from most of the usual tube vendors, but they're kinda spendy. Most are in the $30-40 range. If there is a hamfest in your area you can probably find one cheaper. Something to be aware of though, if the voltage supply to it is weak, the tube will be dim so I'd sort out the power supply first before worrying about the eye tube.
 
Yeah this is dual rectified with a pair of 5Y3's. I have to pull out the 'ol Hickok 539C this weekend and give them all a test. Some initial testing of resistors shows they are in range. I need an ESR meter.

The price you speak for the 6E5 is about what I have seen them for. I did find one place that had them for $16, but they are overseas and I figured shipping would probably have it at the same price as buying locally.

I plan to dive right in this weekend.


Speaking of dual rectifiers; if that design gives way to failures and I can confirm I have a solid circuit I may just build out a solid state rectifier replacement and then just leave the heaters connected so the tubes appear to still be working. I have to make sure the circuit is solid first though. SS will hit fast and immediately unlike the slow rise of a tube recto.
 
Its not excessively failure prone so long as the caps and such aren't bad and causing too much current load. I've had several dual rectifier things over the years with original tubes. Had others with single replacements. Those I've swapped around until I get two that test about the same on my tube tester and call it good enough.
 
Also if anyone knows where I can find a picture of the back of one of these please let me know. I would like to make a new back cover for it.
 
I think the 5U4 can take the place of two 5Y3's current wise. The original owner probably had a 5Y3 go bad so someone stuck a 5U4 only. For using two 5Y3's, the sockets are wired in parallel tube operation for more current.

Personally, I don't really like quick fixes even if it is not harmful. I would go the original two 5Y3's. :thumbsup:
 
interestingly I have been trying to get in contact with my dad who is former National Guard Avionics and analog electronics lover to show pictures of this console to him, and he finally checked in. Turns out he happens to have a 5Y3 and it happens to be stamped Magnavox. He suggested hauling it over and throwing it on a current limiter after a tube test and go for it. He has a Triplett 3444 which is an awesome tester. My Hickok 539C is a great tester, but last time I had it out I noticed the original power cord has gotten severely dry rotted and I need to replace that before using it. I guess if I got into a pinch I could have robbed my Hickok of its 5Y3...lol

If I end up doing that this weekend I'll report the results.
 
Thanks for that. I am almost certain that the 52 02 AAX I posted above is not valid. I need to take the tuner out of the chassis. 52 02 AAX is the only stamp I can see without taking it out. I had found and looked at the CR745BB, but I really just need to get that thing out of the cabinet. Thanks again.

It also appears there is a single screw that threads into the back of the chassis at the bottom. From there it looks like the chassis and whole front panel slide out as one unit. We shale see if that is the case tonight.
 
Well thanks to everyone. I think all my questions are answered except the plexi glass replacement, but I think that is probably going to come down to finding a second unit and robbing it for that panel. I got the tuner cord re-wound and its turning fine. the cord itself is actually in decent shape. I suspect somehow the spring tension was removed causing the cord to unwind. It was basically in place and pretty darn easy to figure out.


Next will be one of two paths. Either I test the tubes and if they come out good load in onto a current limiter and go for it, or invest the $60 - 70 in the electrolytics and replace them then test. I'm sure those caps are probably no good. I'll check back if and when I get this little gem working.
 
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