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Magnovox Phono Console

cademan said:
Ah yes, the 8301 looks to be the integrated version of the 8601. Hard to keep track of these things. :D
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Looks like a smaller transformer than that 8601 ?

As far as gutting the unit, I don't have room for a console anywhere and can't afford a tube system. This is the only way I can get into tubes. I would gladly trade this whole setup for second Baldwin, that's what I wish I was working on, but I've only got one.

The voltage here is what get's me, how do I know it's all discharged ? Says 350vdc on the silver can up top.
 
Beatnik said:
The voltage here is what get's me, how do I know it's all discharged ? Says 350vdc on the silver can up top.
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Set your volt meter for DC Volts, high range, and connect it to the main ground, and B+, to see if its still holding a charge after its off...

Regards,
John
 
Beatnik said:
Looks like a smaller transformer than that 8601 ?
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Yup, because there is no tuner/preamp being powered off of the amplifier.

Beatnik said:
The voltage here is what get's me, how do I know it's all discharged ? Says 350vdc on the silver can up top.
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You can discharge them with a screwdriver to chassis. It won't hurt them or break down the dielectric inside them unless you were to purposely charge and discharge them a few hundred times which you will not be even coming close to doing so no worries. If you were to replace it anyway, then who cares what damage it might do to the capacitor itself.

There is no way that there is 350 volts on capacitors when turned off and unplugged. There might be a quick second of a jolt which I have gotten from non-discharged capacitors but as long as the amp or item in question is not plugged in and turned on, there is not enough voltage charged in them to kill you. It will drain immediately but you will get one hell of a jolt if it hasn't been discharged before going in and working on something.

LOL, I used to bring charged capacitors to high school with me back in the 80's, and most people in my classes did not believe that DC could shock you until I carefully removed it from my pocket and tossed it to them. :yikes: :D
 
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Beatnik said:
The voltage here is what get's me, how do I know it's all discharged ? Says 350vdc on the silver can up top.
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They lose much of their charge within a few minutes... the rest can be discharged by putting the appropriate value resistor across the terminals... but, as others have pointed out, a quick arc with a screwdriver (with a non-conducting handle for you to hold) will do the same thing faster.




Beatnik said:
...I would gladly trade this whole setup for second Baldwin, that's what I wish I was working on, but I've only got one...
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Which Baldwin do you have? I might have one, as I've parted a couple Baldwins.
 
I've been leery of tubes since I was a kid. "You can die in there !" is what I was told. :yes:

janikphoto said:
Which Baldwin do you have? I might have one, as I've parted a couple Baldwins.
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Out of a tone cabinet, I'd like to have a pair of these !

baldwin2_zpsdc89ffb6.jpg
 
Pulled the platter, looks like black and yellow go to a switch and red goes to the motor ? This mean I need to cross black and yellow to power up ?
 

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That looks right from the single pic... The switch is what turns the amp on and off. You can wire a rocker switch in there.
 
I'll do that tomorrow. Cleaned it up and made a quick face plate, hope it works.
 

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Just beware those original caps, it can take out more expensive parts if and when they fail. If you want to do a minimum job, replace the two Good-All caps and the can cap. The Good-Alls can leak and kill your output tubes, the can cap can fail and take out the transformer.
 
Tubes are foreign to me. I'm going to search around and see if a rebuild has been shown here. I'm guessing the can has multiple caps inside it.
 
The outside of teh can will say which caps are inside... They are designated by symbols, half round, square, triangle,,, the symbols are usually cut in the bottom of the can, in teh insulator, next to lugs the wires mount to,,, you can either replace the can, or use separate caps with a little higher voltage rating, staying close to teh original mF stamped on teh can,,,

Heres a link to an RCA I'm presently working on which is very similar to your Maggy,,, Pic on post 20...
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=616205&page=2

Regards,
John
 
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So I can just put them underneath disconnecting the wires from the can. I'm asking questions, are these polarized caps ?
 
Beatnik said:
So I can just put them underneath disconnecting the wires from the can. I'm asking questions, are these polarized caps ?
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Yes, you can leave the can on top and just attach the new caps under the chassis. That amp cleaned up well... it looks great!
 
Beatnik said:
So I can just put them underneath disconnecting the wires from the can. I'm asking questions, are these polarized caps ?
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Yes they are polarized, the lugs in the bottom of teh can are +, teh can is ground... If you want more room, remove teh can, and put one of teh new caps in teh old hole,I use grommets to mount ...
Make sure all teh ground leads from teh new caps connect to the same location the can was grounded to, or use teh same ground lug on teh old can if you leave it in,,, don't connect teh new cap + leads to teh old can lugs, tho...
Keeping the grounds inn teh same location helps reduce hum...

Regards,
John
 
Sounds easy enough, I was wondering about +/- on the caps. I'll look it over good when I get home.

Jason, the chassis cleaned up real well with that Blue Magic liquid. That stuff shines stuff real easy, don't use it if you don't want a bright finish.
 
It's been enjoyable cleaning it up, tomorrow hopefully Frys will have some caps after I get a list together. Picked up these aluminum knobs on sale at RS for 2.79 a pair.
 

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Looks really good, I like Oak,,, needs a pilot light to the right of the knob... LED and 150/180 ohm resistor connected to teh heater circuit will set it off nicely...

Regards,
John
 
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