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Marantz 1060 Basket Case Dead Short

On a side note, this 1060 seems different than the other one I re-capped. The power amp board has several resistors mounted on the foil side and seems to have less electrolytic capacitors, the phono and tone boards have large green resistors instead of the brown ones and I also don't remember the large aluminum heat sinks added to the outputs. Is this a later version? Since the 1060 is so popular on AK, maybe some insight? Thanks Rich
 
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There are some differences between earlier and later 1060's. I noticed different resistor values on the amp board and the resistors on the back side. I have a later run 1060, and I gave an earlier version to my son. I bought the earlier one from a fellow AK member that was letting go of some projects. It came in chunks but turned out nice.
 
New outputs came from Mouser today, installed all four and put the unit back together. Kinda scared to try it, but ..... it works! Amazing the rusted boat anchor plays music. So in all, replaced the cut power cord, installed new feet, re-capped power supply, power amp and phone board, replaced coupling caps w 6800uf/63v and the main filter cap w 10000uf/80v, and replaced all four outputs with on-semi MJ21194G. And I had a nice 1060 cover to replace the rusted one! Sounds great and running cool, still a couple of things .... the power lamp is out and looking at it, it seems different than any I have changed before, is this one special and what is the best way to remove it?
Also, the unit plays for about 30 seconds after power off, from other posts, it seems this may be normal and made more pronounced by the increase in the main/coupling caps, just want to make sure.

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Thanks for all your help! Rich
 
Great !
Yes, the fact it is running after switch-off is normal and is due to the fact that there is no relay to switch off the speakers, and having now a bigger capacity main cap, it runs even longer...
 
Any help on the power lamp? The manual list a "socket" and a "lamp", is this a screw in type and if so where can it be sourced. Thanks Rich
 
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Glad to hear its up and running! The faceplate on my basket case wasn't as nice. It had a couple dinged corners.
 
8v/60ma/4.7mm lamps per dgwojo when I got them from him. These are lamps with wire leads. I don't think you will have much luck finding those original lamps to fit the base in there.

Tony
 
I pull them out from behind but half the time the wires break. It may be glued in but the back of the bulb is hard to get at. There's a high likelihood the glass will break.

I use a warm white T1-3/4 LED for the replacement, rewiring it from 8Vac to the dc power supply, like 30 plus volts from memory, and through a current limiting resistor. It's usually a fairly high value like 33K maybe as it doesn't need to be very bright at all to match the original bulb brightness.
 
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