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Marantz 2330 Rebuild

akadrhouse

akadrhouse

SuchaNoob
Subscriber
I've rebuilt a half dozen smaller Marantz and Sansui now and decided to rebuild a 2330. I have been using information on http://marantzhallo-fi.blogspot.com/2014/12/marantz-2330-receiver.html and what I can glean from AK posts.

I started with the P400 board
Left is original, Right is after rebuilding.

I listened after and it sounded very good. Much improved response, noise and fullness after rebuild. Thought I would post my progress and choices here, as well as get feedback.

I decided to wait until after rebuild was done to set the bias on this board.

upload_2020-7-5_0-34-2.png
 
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I next updated the PH01 Buffer Amp Board,
I replaced the 4.7uf/50v EC with Wima Films and the 220/35 at CH13 with same parameter panasonic FC
I was going to replace the 2sc1345 on this board with KSC1845s, but they had already been replaced at some point in their life with OEM 2SC1345, and since I have no static or hum/hiss, I decided to leave.

I was going to also replaced the .22/50 with WIMA, but my leads were not far enough apart, and I was under impression the lima bean films from Marantz rarely fail.


upload_2020-7-5_0-39-33.png
 
I ran into a problem.

While listening to after updating the tone board and PH01 Buffer Amp board shown above, I noticed the left channel was not full in bass anymore.

I examined any solders for leaking across the circuits and reflowed on both boards, but cannot get the the left channel to correct.

Loudness not engaged
  • Putting slider to left side - sound not nearly as full on low end
  • Turning bass on tone board has almost no discernable effect from min to max
Engage Loudness
  • Sounds much more similar to right channel, but still a deficit
  • Turning bass now is quite discernable, but still not same as right channel

Here are pictures of the backs of my two boards. I can't see improper solder flows, but perhaps something is noticable to the experts here.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
upload_2020-7-5_0-56-56.png
upload_2020-7-5_0-57-38.png
 
Getting ready to work on the Power Supply and Relay board (p800). It seems like it may be difficult to access the back of it without removing most of the Jpost wrap around connectors that go to the other boards.

Is there a trick to getting behind it?
Something I'm missing?
Is it better remove thadjacent P700 board/heatsick complex first?

I looked at @Leestereo 's 2325 (very similar construction to this 2330) thread, and I can't tell from the pics how or if it was removed. But it doesn't look like any of the post wrap-arounds were removed.

Thanks in advance.


upload_2020-7-27_22-55-45.png
 
akadrhouse said:
I ran into a problem.

While listening to after updating the tone board and PH01 Buffer Amp board shown above, I noticed the left channel was not full in bass anymore.

I examined any solders for leaking across the circuits and reflowed on both boards, but cannot get the the left channel to correct.

Loudness not engaged
  • Putting slider to left side - sound not nearly as full on low end
  • Turning bass on tone board has almost no discernable effect from min to max
Engage Loudness
  • Sounds much more similar to right channel, but still a deficit
  • Turning bass now is quite discernable, but still not same as right channel

Here are pictures of the backs of my two boards. I can't see improper solder flows, but perhaps something is noticable to the experts here.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
View attachment 1917477
View attachment 1917478
Click to expand...

check the parts used.
Was there a bi-polar cap that you replaced with a polar cap?
 
blhagstrom said:
check the parts used.
Was there a bi-polar cap that you replaced with a polar cap?
Click to expand...

I'm not 100% sure that it wasn't always there, and I won't get to the problem and fix as I work through the rest of the boards.

To answer your question. I don't think so. I've replaced Electrolytics with films, but never the other way. No film capacitor is polar right?

PH01 buffer amplifier
upload_2020-7-28_0-48-13.png

PE01 - Tone
upload_2020-7-28_0-49-39.png
 
akadrhouse said:
I'm not 100% sure that it wasn't always there, and I won't get to the problem and fix as I work through the rest of the boards.

To answer your question. I don't think so. I've replaced Electrolytics with films, but never the other way. No film capacitor is polar right?

PH01 buffer amplifier
View attachment 1938134

PE01 - Tone
View attachment 1938135
Click to expand...

film is non-polar. So you are probably good there.
 
P800 Board Finished.

I did not change out the 150OHM/5w -> 150OHM/7W. Other than that, I followed Lee's 2325 choices except for a few differences in the circuit. I thought that the OMRON LY2-0 would fit, but it DOES not, so kept old relay. It was working fine. Other than the diodes, I didn't change any of the resistors. Not sure if I should change the pair of 2SC1318 → KSC2690 or not! Please chime in, if I should while the board is still out.

upload_2020-8-10_23-55-40.png

upload_2020-8-10_23-56-33.png
 
rBuckner said:
2SC1318 is on the list of crappy transistors to change out. You can use KSC2383 or even KSC2690. I'd also recommend changing out those two TO-220 Sanyo D331s with OnSemi MJE15030's.
Click to expand...

I will do the 2SC1318 then. Thank you!. I forgot to notate about H808/H809. I replaced with 771-BYQ28E-200E,127 as that is what @Leestereo mentioned in his 2325 thread.

Quick noob question. The orientation of the part (these replacement rectifier for the D331s) doesn't matter right since, Anode 1 and Anode 2 both point to middle cathode and they didn't seem to have different properties?

Is that right?

upload_2020-8-11_0-55-7.png
 
Last edited:
Leestereo said:
Note that its the DS-131B dual diodes, H808 and H809, were upgraded to the high current, soft recovery NXP BYQ28E-200,127, NOT the 2SD331 transistors.
Click to expand...
Thanks @Leestereo, I was getting mixed up in my numbers. Those are the two that I replaced. You can see in my picture.
Is it correct that orientation does not matter for those?
[
 
The dual diodes can go in either way. The standard replacements for 2SD331/2SD313 all go in the same way. I have seen KSC2073, TIP41C, MJE15030G, and MJE15032G used in various applications. They all go in the same way.

Replace the 2SC1318s for sure. Either transistor (KSC2383 or KSC2690) should be ok.

The 2330 uses a regular Omron MY2-02-24DC relay.
 
EastPoint said:
The dual diodes can go in either way. The standard replacements for 2SD331/2SD313 all go in the same way. I have seen KSC2073, TIP41C, MJE15030G, and MJE15032G used in various applications. They all go in the same way.

Replace the 2SC1318s for sure. Either transistor (KSC2383 or KSC2690) should be ok.

The 2330 uses a regular Omron MY2-02-24DC relay.
Click to expand...


Thank for the info @EastPoint

I've ordered the MJE15030 that @rBuckner mentioned, and the Omron Relay you mentioned. I have the replacements for the 2SC1318 on hand.
 
Had a long hiatus. I'm getting back into this where I left off. I bought the MJE15030G to replace the 2SD331 (H801/802). The 331's have 2 prongs, and the 15030G's have 3. Am I to remove the middle prong? That looks like what has been done on the originals, but I want to make sure.
upload_2020-11-16_23-56-54.png
 
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