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Marantz Led light replacement project.

I love that phrase about the intense LED's being "emotionally harsh".

My audio gear doesn't tend to get too emotional about anything.

How about "disquieting and distant", or "austere and barren"? Maybe "cooly vacuous".

Still loving my LED's, by the way...
 
Boss Radio. What type of LED are they. I do Agree that the LED's look a lot nicer then the stock lamps. I liked to do this to my tunner and my Sansui 9090.
Lou
 
Lou, they're custom built replacements for the fuse lamps. Do a search on eBay for "LED fuse lamps" and you should find what you're after. The same vendor also sells single LED replacements for the function lamps. Good luck. The guy used to post here, as well.
 
Hey!
I still post here!

However, I will be on vacation next week riding my bicycle around Wyoming.


DH
BossRadio4VR said:
Lou, they're custom built replacements for the fuse lamps. Do a search on eBay for "LED fuse lamps" and you should find what you're after. The same vendor also sells single LED replacements for the function lamps. Good luck. The guy used to post here, as well.
Click to expand...
 
EchoWars said:
In the example above, the LED will be turning on and off 60x per second. Some people find this annoying (me included). Gives me a headache.

To eliminate this, we can filter the supply by adding a capacitor after the diode as in examples 'C' and 'D'. If the AC winding is floating, you'll need another diode to protect the polarized electrolytic capacitor from reverse voltage, as shown in example 'C'. If one side of the AC winding is grounded (commonly done), you can skip the second diode as in example 'D'.
Click to expand...

Sorry to take out this old thread, but I am interested, if anybody of you made such flicker-free LEDs as EW posted here on page one.

And how? Would be great to have such a LED just to put into the receiver instead of the fuse lamps.

Regards.
 
You will need to rectify the AC voltage to DC . The AC is what causes the flickering (LED going on /off 60 times a second) , LED's work best with a DC supply .
Change the supply to a DC and the flicker will go away .




Barney
 
Another way to help reduce the flickering is to use a persistant phospher. That's what I do.

DH
 
Somehow I get the impression that more than a few minutes thought went into designing these LED replacements!....:yes::thmbsp:
 
lLickering LED´s

I borrow this thread for a while, hope I don´t became a jerk because of that, saw it is unused for over a year.

I picked up a Marantz 2225B today, happily! It play´s like an angel :music:, so I´m 100% pleasant with the sound :D .

After a while I looked at the (only) 2 lamps who still was going strong. Then I opened it to take a look inside, and rather quick thought about LED instead of broken fuselamps.

But, after some hours and much flickering with some LED´s, I´m a little bit confused.
How are the LED you can buy made? Are they flickering too? If they are, I can found no reason to buy them.

Tried a lots of things this evening, but the only way I can found to have LED in the Marantz not flickering, is to make a separately rectifier bridge (can easily be made by 4 diodes and 1 cap) for the 8V AC power that today goes to the lamps, and connect the rectifier bridge to the LED´s.
Or is it just me who can´t think correctly?

Best regards
//Rampitsch
 
If you want a tiny simple way of getting around the AC problem then use something like this....a tiny 1A bridge rectifier :)

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1308&keywords=rectifier&form=KEYWORD

I usually put one in and once i have the DC supply with the voltage drop across the diode add the required current limiting resistor in a higher wattage on a tiny board then i dont have to stuff around with individual LED's i can just solder them straight in..
 
The problem with a single current-limiting resistor (if that's how you're doing it), is that if one LED goes open, the current to all the rest goes up, hastening their failure as well.

But I do like the idea of the itty-bitty bridge. ;)

As far as the 'flickering', in the US it's at 60Hz. Maybe the 50Hz in your country is more annoying, but at 60Hz it doesn't seem to bother too many people.
 
I'd like to do up my Marantz 2226b one day, but I'm curious if people have done this to other receivers. I've got a Kenwood KR-3090 with no lamps and was wondering if LEDs mights be a possibility.
 
aokman: I made a rectifier yesterday och 4 diodes. But the LED was still flickering, so I added a capacitator and then all was fine. I suppose I will need at cap to that rectifier too?

EchoWars: I have the same idea about the 60 VS 50 Hz. Don´t know how much you see the flickering vid 60Hz, but I see it clearly vid 50Hz.

I decide to do nothing with the 2225B today, just clean it upp and then I will order some white LED´s with wide angel (90 degrees), and also some caps and rectifier. Make it to a projekct on a rainy summerday I think.

I will come back when I know if it´s work or not.

And to KrisM: It will absolutely work, but if the Kenwood have AC to the lamp, you have the same problme as me, and if you have DC to the lamp, smile!

Best regards!
//Rampitsch
 
rampitsch said:
aokman: I made a rectifier yesterday och 4 diodes. But the LED was still flickering, so I added a capacitator and then all was fine. I suppose I will need at cap to that rectifier too?

EchoWars: I have the same idea about the 60 VS 50 Hz. Don´t know how much you see the flickering vid 60Hz, but I see it clearly vid 50Hz.

I decide to do nothing with the 2225B today, just clean it upp and then I will order some white LED´s with wide angel (90 degrees), and also some caps and rectifier. Make it to a projekct on a rainy summerday I think.

I will come back when I know if it´s work or not.

And to KrisM: It will absolutely work, but if the Kenwood have AC to the lamp, you have the same problme as me, and if you have DC to the lamp, smile!

Best regards!
//Rampitsch
Click to expand...

a small cap is always recommended after a rectifier yes :) you can easily make a circuit that you can hide anywhere. I get what your saying about leds but it has never been an issue with me so far, probably because i run them under their specification to play it safe :) odds are you never need the full power of one of those 5mm leds anyway :)
 
I will absolutely make a little circuit to hide inside. In the 2225 it is really much space, so no problems there.
But I think it is a little bit worse in the 2275 and 2325, not so much space there, but I figure it out someway. The 2325 is all new lamps, but the 2275 only has 1 lamp still alive. I think I take them one and one, 2225 at first.

Thanks for all backup, you´re great!

//Rampitsch
 
honestly that chip is about 5mm by 5mm you could you could fit the whole thing on a board about 2cm in size :)

heres a quick one i did, its a bit bigger but it handles every LED in the amp.

 
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Hmmm, I don't know if they are AC. I just had it open to re-string the tuner and I grabbed the numbers of the bulbs, 8V .3A and 8V 50ma(I think), both say Stanley.
 
should say in the service manual what the windings are for the transformer output, or you can just meter out the light strip...
 
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