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Marantz Model 1060 Amp - main 3 amp fuse blows - help pls

Homer4beer, I sent you a PM for a simple in line DBT which is very easy to make. Parts to buy are in your PM.

Here's a completed one:

IMG_1349 (Small).JPG IMG_1352 (Small).JPG IMG_1353 (Small).JPG IMG_1354 (Small).JPG

This is as basic as a DBT can get, fully insulated, earth/ground loop through, no soldering, no extra terminals required as the base of the HPM socket has two NC (not connected) spare loop through terminals to use, pre-made 10A extension lead you use to save money and wiring/time etc. $15.33 in parts from your local Bunnings, plus an old 60W globe.
 
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pdm4606 said:
Just a silly question.....Is the voltage selection set correctly????? .
Click to expand...

Not a silly question at all! I'm aware you change the wiring inside the unit to select however have not checked as I bought it locally and have assumed it should have been set correctly as it was part of a full system including tape deck and turntable when I bought it.
 
Far out! I can't find an incandescent bulb anywhere in Australia to save myself!

Will these work?

halolux3.jpg
 
Ok I officially have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

First I wired ONLY the LIVE (brown) wire to the batten holder into and out of the same pin, and the earth and neutral from one end of the plug to the other bypassing the light altogether.

No light working.

20170402_221057_zpspelida0u.jpg


Next I wired the light as it should as in the picture and then ran the wires from the light socket into the female socket. The light works now but doesn't dim at all with anything plugged into the end.

So I have probably very much misunderstood how the batten holder is wired.

My guess is I wire as my first attempt but the live wire goes into one connector from the male and and onto a different connector from the female end.

Can anybody help here?

Cheers
 
Assuming brown is equivalent of black and blue is equivalent of white, I think you should have source brown on one light terminal and load brown to the other light terminal. Then the two blue wires should be tied together. Wait for someone to confirm before doing this.
 
Yep not touching it until I get confirmation of correct wiring of light socket.

Any chance the power switch on the amp could be causing the fuse to blow? It isn't the best and gets stuck sometimes.
 
Sure. There could always be a short in the power switch. If there is a suspicion of this, you can remove the power switch, connect the wires directly, and plug it in to turn it on. it's a bit of a job, and you need to be sure of your wiring before doing it.
 
My 2270 had a sticky power switch. I took the faceplate off to get a good look. I fixed the switch by spraying some regular contact cleaner down the switch shaft, with the straw attachment. The switch began to free up when I pressed it in and out. I followed that up with a very small shot of Caig FaderLube. That really took care of it. The switch works perfectly now.

Good luck with the Marantz. I've been following your adventures with it.
 
Homer4beer said:
Yep i am
Click to expand...
Run your "neutral" from the tester's power cord straight to the neutral on the tester's power receptacle (the one where you would plug in the receiver under test). Connect the "line" wire of the tester's power cord to one side of the test lamp receptacle. Connect the other side of the test lamp receptacle to the line on the tester's power receptacle (again, where the Marantz would plug into the tester). Pass the ground lead, if present, straight from the power cord to the receptacle's ground connection. That's all there is to it. You need to know what pin is what on Australian power plugs and receptacles. The basic idea is to run the device under test IN SERIES with the light bulb, so that the bulb limits the amount of current the device under test can draw. The brighter the bulb, the more power your equipment is pulling. With a properly functioning Marantz, the bulb would light bright at first, then quickly dim down. If it stays bright, you have a problem with the Marantz.
 
Ok bulb tester built correctly (pretty sure anyway.)

So with the fuse back in using the bulb tester and a 53w globe, the bulb is not lit. When I turn the amp on the bulb lights brightly and stays bright, not diming at all. I did hear the amp click after powering up the first time, now not at all.

To confirm my wiring;

I have run both the earth and neutral directly from the wall to the female plug which the amp plugs into. The live goes from wall into the live connector on the light. The other live wire coming from the female plug goes into the neutral connector on the light. (there is a "loop" comnector also. So that be used instead of neutral?).

Thanks guys.

For something so easy it's confusing as I'm in Australia and not following the US instructions.
 
Maybe you can try your DBT on a known good amp. Amp off = bulb 100% dark. At amp on = bulb lights up bright and within 1 second goes nearly completely dark (usually glowing a tiny bit). If there is a big short somewhere in the amp the bulb stays on bright.
Homer4beer said:
I did hear the amp click after powering up the first time, now not at all.
Click to expand...
There is no relay in the 1060, you should not hear any clicks at all. If speakers arer on then you will hear a soft "thump" from them, thats normal.
 
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