Not trying to rain on your parade, but when driving low impedence loads, bridging an amp is just asking for trouble, unless is it is specifically designed to run low impedence loads in bridged mode... which generally means a pro amp.
Most home stereo amps are comfortable with 8 and 4 ohm loads, but bridging them reduces their ability to effectively drive a 4 ohm load.
Lower impedence loads demand more current, so in many cases, you are better off with a lower rated (at 8 ohms) wattage amp, with a high current design that has power ratings that double or nearly double into 4 ohms and again into 2 ohms.
If your speakers offer a bi-amping/bi-wiring option, I would bi-amp them with two stereo amps, running in stereo... you can go vertical (one amp on each speaker, one channel for highs, one for lows) or horizontal (one amp for left and right lows, and one amp for left and right highs).
My favorite example of current vs total rated wattage is with my Infinity Kappa 9's... bi-amped with two Carver M 1.5t amps running in stereo (350 wpc each) went into protect at less than 30%... they are totally stable on a pair of Aragon 4004's (200 wpc each)... driven to oblivion...
When driving low impedence loads, current/power supply capacity becomes far more important than the touted 8 ohm wattage ratings... do a little research and review Ohm's Law...