Mx110z valve order
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clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Hello
This picture is my picture and I sent it long time ago
This picture is not a MX110 Z serie picture
What serie is your MX110 ? M? X? Z?
Order of tubes is on the chassis
This picture is my picture and I sent it long time ago
This picture is not a MX110 Z serie picture
What serie is your MX110 ? M? X? Z?
Order of tubes is on the chassis
Pio1980
AK Member
Right side, front center-right to down right to rear from 6AB4 on, tuner section. Do not tube roll here.
Rear left, FM stereo multiplex demodulator.
Front left, audio section.
Lone 12AT7 center-ish rearward, L/R muting.
Location functions may be same for all versions.
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Mine is a mx110z.
All I know for certain is valve #16 and #17 which are 6U8.. 16 being closer to the front and 17 just behind it.
Thanks. I'm just getting a hum on both channels and on all settings and I want to first roll tubes before I order caps.
On another note is the Epray cap kit a good deal or for you guys know which sells a kit.
Rod
All I know for certain is valve #16 and #17 which are 6U8.. 16 being closer to the front and 17 just behind it.
Thanks. I'm just getting a hum on both channels and on all settings and I want to first roll tubes before I order caps.
On another note is the Epray cap kit a good deal or for you guys know which sells a kit.
Rod
mnmmt
Active Member
If you can do the work yourself, you can get caps for less than that kit, though I don't know how good their instructions are. When I did mine I splurged on the German made can caps (authenticaps) and then used illinois yellow polypropylene caps for most coupling caps and got some illinois or Nichicon electrolytics for the ones underneath. I think I came out ahead of the kits on the bay, and I spent a few bucks extra on the 1uf caps just before the outputs. You'll want to replace the selenium rectifier while in there too.
My guess is that you've got bad electrolytics in it--the only tubes you would need to swap out are the 12ax7 and the 2 6u8 tubes, and realistically only the 12ax7 would give you hum on both channels at once. The tape monitor input skips the compactron and all of the tuner tubes, so the 12ax7 and 6u8 are the only ones in circuit to hum (though I suppose a bad tube somewhere else could be sending hum all through the tuner, but that is unlikely to hum without causing other problems such as magic smoke).
You've probably also got some bad bumblebee caps too, so you'd do well to recap it.
My guess is that you've got bad electrolytics in it--the only tubes you would need to swap out are the 12ax7 and the 2 6u8 tubes, and realistically only the 12ax7 would give you hum on both channels at once. The tape monitor input skips the compactron and all of the tuner tubes, so the 12ax7 and 6u8 are the only ones in circuit to hum (though I suppose a bad tube somewhere else could be sending hum all through the tuner, but that is unlikely to hum without causing other problems such as magic smoke).
You've probably also got some bad bumblebee caps too, so you'd do well to recap it.
OP asked me about a kit of parts. I looked at those ebay kits with one showing the multi-cap cans taken apart. It's actually difficult to get the top of the can off unless you chuck the thing in a lathe and cut it off. That's my experience. I would just replace the entire cap except for C117 where I would just mount caps underneath the chassis. May be tough to find enough room to do so.
All of those black plastic caps with the painted stripes should be replaced as they're usually shot, again in my experience. The rest of the film caps I would just leave alone at the beginning and perhaps change them later.
Murray
All of those black plastic caps with the painted stripes should be replaced as they're usually shot, again in my experience. The rest of the film caps I would just leave alone at the beginning and perhaps change them later.
Murray
Gregory
Soundco Kid
Wow, impressive! That unit must throw off some heat, do you have an idea of the typical AC line draw in watts?Here's mine that I did years ago. Kinda went a little nuts with the new caps.Note that I replaced all of the seleniums.
Looks to me like a couple white rectifiers (maybe four) in the center-right rear under the fuse, and four black rectifiers center-left rear behind the pot.
-Greg
Yes, it makes a lot of heat with the transformer getting quite hot. I never checked the current draw.
I'm pretty sure those white diodes are part of the tube heater circuit as is the paper covered cap on top of the unit.
Murray
clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Hello
Yes , I see once again that people replaced selenium diodes bridge which is a good idea but noone think to use a fuse in serie with the high voltage secondary winding ........This is really strange because if something is going bad or shorted your power transformer will start to work in very bad condition , start to overheat and then damage the winding like many MX110 does worldwide
After using is fuse holder with the right fuse , if something wrong happen the fuse will burn and the MX110 will no more give any sound at his outptut . Very easy to understand what is wrong in the unit !
Having a very hot power transformer is not normal at all !
Yes , I see once again that people replaced selenium diodes bridge which is a good idea but noone think to use a fuse in serie with the high voltage secondary winding ........This is really strange because if something is going bad or shorted your power transformer will start to work in very bad condition , start to overheat and then damage the winding like many MX110 does worldwide
After using is fuse holder with the right fuse , if something wrong happen the fuse will burn and the MX110 will no more give any sound at his outptut . Very easy to understand what is wrong in the unit !
Having a very hot power transformer is not normal at all !
