My new Technics SL-1310MkII and the famous cueing problem

[toups]

Sounds like something isn't right. It's been too long to trust my memory but SaSi posted a number of pictures. Unfortunately, the exploded diagrams in the service manual are very difficult to interpret. If I get a chance I'll review the images to see if anything comes to mind.

 

[gary7]

Hello, not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread. I just put in the part from shapeways (mine was brass..SL-1500MK2)..I am having issues with no damping. I tried putting some 500,000 wt silicone oil on the shaft that holds the C-clip and put it back together. It seems like there is very little travel up when raising the cue lever and it just doesn't come down(with cartridge installed). I then removed the silicone oil and put some TT oil on the shaft and that didn't help either. It doesn't at all feel smooth action if I manually assist the shaft travel. Perhaps I put too much silicone oil on the shaft? I'm not really sure what to try next. Any thoughts, hints or tips would be appreciated. TIA

If I understand your post, the arm is sticking when at the top of the cue lift? I just put a Shapeways gear in a 1310 MK II. See post https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/technics-sl-1310-mk-ii-in-the-house.866857/ . I have previously repaired a 1300 MK II. I had the same issue after I first installed the gear, the cue would stick when the arm lift is full up and when I touched the arm it would drop. I also used 500K silicon as the 125k I had did not seem to work.. I took it apart again & smoothed out some rough spots on the gear. and also lowered the arm height some and finally got it to drop as it should. Try lowering the the arm lift a little & see if that helps.

 

[gary7]

Hi all,
I only fixed the cueing mechanism on one deck. It has been working fine since then, although the TT is not used very often. I purchased a 3D printed part from shapeways to fix this "better" but still waiting for it to fail.

Went back to post 1 to check the date and realized it's 9 years old. I still have the memories of the disassembly process and the huge mistake I did with super glue back then.

I also noticed that the disassembly instructions blog page I am refering to in post #15 no longer exists. I edited that post and also make a note here that I can send a pdf file with the instructions to anyone needing them. It's 4,5MB long and can't upload it here.
Edit: Scratch that. With a little bit of "creative destruction" I was able to convert to a pdf with resampled images (for the worse) and size went down to 1MB, just enough to fit.

SaSi, thanks for posting the solenoid service pdf. Mine is showing signs of the start issue (push start button, platter spins & stops. Push it again & it plays as it should). Will have to get it done sometime in near future.

 

[SaSi]

Not sure what the solenoid you refer to is. It has been a while since I took an SL-1300MkII apart though. Could you explain please?

 

[gary7]

Not sure what the solenoid you refer to is. It has been a while since I took an SL-1300MkII apart though. Could you explain please?

On post #136 you linked a pdf of how to disassemble & clean the 2 solenoids on the motor/arm base for the 1300 MK II.

 

[SaSi]

I have totally forgotten about that part of the mechanism.

BTW, I'd like to repeat that these instructions were retrieved from a good blog site that unfortunately dis-appeared. So credit to where credit is due.

 

[damacman]

Well .... looky there. My spare 1300 MK2 needs the solenoids cleaned! Very nice.

 

[toups]

Turns out the disassembly instructions and solenoid repair can also be found in the internet archive at http://web.archive.org/web/20090514...ss.com/2008/04/06/technics-sl-1300mk2-service (Note the original site is probably NSFW)

Also for those interested, I had posted ages ago instructions at https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sl-1300-mk2-78-rpm-mod.647136/ and https://stereo.toups.info/ on how to modify the SL-1300 MK2 series (i.e., SL-1300 MK2, SL-1310 MK2, SL-1400 MK2, SL-1400 MK2, SL-1410 MK2, SL-1500 MK2 and SL-1510 MK2) turntables to play 78 rpm records.

Another item that may need repair is the table suspension, see https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...-1400mk2-and-sl-1500mk2.672162/#post-10420971 for a solution.

 

[gary7]

I needed to repair the suspension boots on my 1310, so while I had it down I cleaned the solenoids. can tell the difference, starts right up. No stalled or shut down platter now. Here's what I did for the suspension boots. And have done with other rubber boot suspensions. As long as all the rubber boot parts are there, if any have rips or starting to come apart, if the parts are still fairly whole. I super glue the ones that have come apart and let that dry. If any holes use electrical or plastic tape to cover them. Then get some liquid tape or the rubber dip for tools at a parts store. Coat the boot and let it dry. Might not look pretty as fresh rubber but it strengthens the boot so it can be used as originally intended. Just put them back on the 1310 & no more platter scrub.

 

[lexxz]

Hello! I ordered a cue from
Technics SL 1300 1400 1500 MK2 cueing (Knurled bus
, The problem screw was unscrewed heavily. The blue wire broke. You can simply connect the wire to solder, or you need to change the entire wire in the tonearm. I just do it the first time and ask for advice. The second problem: the stroboscope is not visible in the mirror window. LEDs light up, but there is no reflection in the mirror. Technics SL-1410mk2. Is this possible if the transport screws are not loosened?

 

[Iak]

Hey. Many thanks for all of the work put into this, Sasi and everyone. As a novice, I went through all your notes and pics religiously. Spent the good part of 5 weeknights and a weekend doing the repairs. I finally have the cue arm working again. Beautiful thing to see.

Would love your help with 4 things:

1. Start/stop are fine but no auto return. It won’t work. I did the solenoid work as mentioned + my best to clean and re lube all areas but no luck. Thoughts?

2. Cue lowering is pretty harsh. Drops fast and bounces. The raising however is fine

3. Dim lighting on the rpm + % window. Also start/stop is dim. I cleaned the buttons/springs inside etc

4. The RCA cables... one side is weaker in volume output. Should I replace the cables?

Feedback would be enormously appreciated by everyone here. Much respect and thanks again

 

[gary7]

Not sure about 1,3 or 4. But 2 is that the cue shaft needs recharge of silicone grease. I used 300k on mine. On 1, did you engage the return button just behind right of the tonearm?

 

[Iak]

Not sure about 1,3 or 4. But 2 is that the cue shaft needs recharge of silicone grease. I used 300k on mine. On 1, did you engage the return button just behind right of the tonearm?

Hey Gary, yep pressed the button a few times. No signal. Regards grease I’ve been using this while cleaning and lubing https://www.magnalube.com/g-product-info A friend put me onto it. Being an amateur I went with his recommendation. What are your thoughts on the product?

 

[gary7]

Not familiar with that. Silicon damping fluid ( really not fluid, very thick) is normally used for cueing shafts, if slows the lift down as the spring pulls it down. Available on line or or local hobby shop. You need at least 300,000 wgt. you have to totally dissemble the arm to do it.

 

[Iak]

Not familiar with that. Silicon damping fluid ( really not fluid, very thick) is normally used for cueing shafts, if slows the lift down as the spring pulls it down. Available on line or or local hobby shop. You need at least 300,000 wgt. you have to totally dissemble the arm to do it.

Thanks for that. I went and picked some 300k up, cleaned the spring rod etc and it works beautifully. Got the rcas fixed but still nothing on the auto return and dim button lights.

 

[gary7]

You might have to adjust the auto return sensor. It reads the plate with the markings on it. There are 3 wires to the sensor. Make sure nothing came loose.

 

[lexxz]

У меня та же проблема. И светодиоды перестали светиться светодиодом



[QUOTE = "gary7, post: 13290879, member: 2852"] Возможно, вам придется настроить датчик автоматического возврата. Он читает табличку с маркировкой на нем. Есть 3 провода к датчику. Убедитесь, что ничего не ослабло. [/ QUOTE]

 

[gary7]

?

У меня та же проблема. И светодиоды перестали светиться светодиодом



[QUOTE = "gary7, post: 13290879, member: 2852"] Возможно, вам придется настроить датчик автоматического возврата. Он читает табличку с маркировкой на нем. Есть 3 провода к датчику. Убедитесь, что ничего не ослабло. [/ QUOTE]

?

 

[gary7]

У меня та же проблема. И светодиоды перестали светиться светодиодом



[QUOTE = "gary7, post: 13290879, member: 2852"] Возможно, вам придется настроить датчик автоматического возврата. Он читает табличку с маркировкой на нем. Есть 3 провода к датчику. Убедитесь, что ничего не ослабло. [/ QUOTE]

Translated. I have the same problem. And the LEDs turned off the LED

 

[Iak]

You might have to adjust the auto return sensor. It reads the plate with the markings on it. There are 3 wires to the sensor. Make sure nothing came loose.

Hey Gary, thanks for this. I wasn't sure what you meant about the adjustments so continued looking online and found the solution on how to do the adjustments right here on audiokarma https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...iliar-with-this-little-optical-sensor.555421/

I now have the autoreturn working as well. Incredible!

Now back to solving the lights.

This place is incredible.